look at the manufacture pics. They show which end is which and usually show diagram of the head taper.

 

Usually the fat end goes in back. Typical spey taper is thin tip with a long fast taper in the front transitioning to a slower or level taper in middle to back and short to very short back taper to the running line.

There are some exceptions e.g. the OPST heads, you just have to know about these.

 

great question: as a newbie to spey fishing, I had the same question. Had the head reversed on a few occasions. I emailed the manufacturer and asked them the same question. Typically (correct me if I'm wrong) the writing on the head (sink rate) is at the leader end, not the reel end.

 

Typically (correct me if I'm wrong) the writing on the head (sink rate) is at the leader end, not the reel end.

For the heads, sometimes the writing is at the front, sometimes it's at the back, sometimes there is no writing at all. This is not a good rule.

 

A few things that might help identify the head direction. Do you know the brand name/series? Are there any color coated ends? Is there a laser printed line id on either end? What type of head is it, skagit, scandi, short spey…?

 

Put both ends side by side and examine them over 12" or so. It will soon become apparent one has a thinner long slow taper, while the other gos fatter and bulkier very quickly. The shorter tapered fatter bulkier end go's to the rear. It helps to take note when you've looked at it carefully and it will lodge in the grey matter better.
Also, once you have a grip of this, always wind your line onto a spool, or over you hand for storage the same way every time, tip end 1st, that way the reel end will be easily available every time.
I find keeping my lines on spools, or in plastic organiser bags keeps the coils tight and in place and stops any mix ups and the reel end is always way to hand.
Yorkie.

 

I have the most challenge with the Bridge Tributary lines...same there, fat section to the running line?

 

Yes. Typical scandi tapers. Note the ones I have, have writing in both front AND back.

Try casting it reversed and see what happens, it's instructive.

 

As opposed to the normal trout WF, Salmon lines in general are WR due to having quite a bit of line out of the rod and on the water before committing to the cast, it's then the weight, hence thick end of the line close to the rod that you are throwing forward on the end of your roll cast to pull out the running line.

 

And once you find the correct end.
Mark it with Red Sharpie, Red to reel.

 

And once you find the correct end.
Mark it with Red Sharpie, Red to reel.

Black Sharpie! Black to back😎

 

Green to be seen?

 

Yellow if you're a fellow?

 

The Pellet with the Poison's in the Vessel with the Pestle

 

I still wet myself over that Danny Kaye clip, its a peach!
Yorkie.

 

I originally had the most challenge with tip direction. Seeing the color difference for me in OPST tips, for example was challenging. To solve this, I leaned into Flip Pallot a bIt. (Preface: this might be sacrilege) I cut off the loop on the tippet side of the tip, snelled a short piece of maximum 30lb chameleon to the end, to a medium tippet ring. I really appreciate the ability to quickly ID the end proper to attach to the head, simplicity of a level tippet off the ring, and increased wet line time.