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Discussion Starter #1
While i was on the thompson this year i snapped a tip off and it took the loop at the end of the flyline with it. A buddy of mine put a braided mono loop on for me, zap-a-gapped the entire thing and away we went. Fished fine for about 3 weeks, then the line cracked above the loop, possibly from hinging? I've had this problem a couple of times, just wondering what is the cause and what is the remedy?

CDG
 

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I have always held that when using the braided mono it does not make sense to coat the entire section covering the fly line - that defeats the purpose of the flexibility and stretching characteristics of the braided mono. I will coat the loop but leave the section that slides over the line alone. I use one nail knot using 10# maxima that I coat to help hold it in place. This allows more flexibility and less reason to crack at the connection
 

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How much zap and where?

CDG - I've never experienced the line failure you describe with braided loops. I nail know the end of the braid don with two sets of Maxima loops. Did your friend zap the whole braid or just the end?
 

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Probable cause

That is why it probably cracked, because it could not flex well over the zapped section it put more stress on the joint.
 

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I've had the exact same thing happen to me; when I use braided mono loops now, I just put a drop of glue at the farthest point that the line extends into the loop splice, and then a drop of glue at the point where the splice begins. Coating the entire thing makes it very inflexible and I think that the fatigue of the line at this particular section causes premature wear, or simply causes the coat to be a stiff spot that breaks because it can't flex like the rest of the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good ol' Rio

Talked to my buddy at the flyshop today and told him about my problems i'm still having with my loops and my flyline, so he called rio and asked them about it. They had expected problems and i sent my two lines back and brand new ones are on the way. :D
 

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Loop problem

Hi:

I use the Gudebrod Butt leader to make my loops, 35 or 50 pound. I only use a small amount of Zap A Gap on the end of the loop where it meets the main line (the free end). I also use a drop on the connection at the flyline.

I make a nail knot over the loop and flyline as close to the end of the loop material as possible. I then use some Aquaseal thinned out with Cotol and coat the entire entire thing. Seems to work very well and leaves you with a stiff yet flexible and strong loop which allows you to turn over your tips and flies.

Tight lines,

Mike
 
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Perhaps you could try this. strip a bit of the outer coating from the line, about 6 inches then stuff it up the centre of your braided mono until it comes out the end and the outer of the fly line is in the braided mono. Then splice the braided mono back into itself, line core and all and using Loctite 406 Ca glue, and a needle applicator put one drop of glue on the splice, locking the inner and the braided mono together, then put a drop where the line enters the braided mono. you can trim up the end connection and coat it with softex or aquaseal if you like. This will hold an elephant.
Cheers Max
 

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One other thing you can do.

Go to your local hobby shop that has RC airplanes to buy you CA glues. Zap A Gap is a CA glue.

You will find that there a 2 kinds of CA glue. You want the one that is safe for plastic. This is also known as oderless CA. Normaly has a Gold lable. This will not attack and disolve the line where you apply it. The standard CA will. Zap A Gap is just a brand name of CA.
 

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Hit the wrong key before I was finished.

The standard CA will disolve anything plastic.

Use as little as possible. One drop on the end of the line going into the splice should be enough.

There are several thicknesses of CA Thin, Gap Filling, Thick, And jell. For our purpose the thin works best. One drop of thin will wick a considerable distance.
 

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CA glues when dry are very abrasive. That characteristic at a hinge point, like the end of a braid loop, will cut through the line coating (which may have been softened by the CA solvents as someone pointed out), and then go to work on the line core. Use something like a flexible UV Knot glue over a nail knot. It will anchor the braid end so the braid will act like a Chinese finger bracelet when you pull on the loop. It won't come apart, reduces hinging and slides through the guides without hanging up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
??????

I don't know, seems like everyone does it a little different, kind of like fishing i guess. I talked to a guy the other day who uses the braided loops, zap-a-gaps the entire thing, top to bottom, and has landed 160 lb. tarpon on these things, so their strength is without question. He said his lines have never broken, but this is on a single hand, not a spey rod, so i don't know, maybe i had a bad line or something.

CDG
 

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using zap a gap on the whole thing could be the problem. I normally whip finish at the top then do the same at the bottom when using the braided mono loops. I don't trust anybodys factory loops anymore except the old rio epoxy loops they seem to hold pretty well for steelhead and salmon. The new welded loops just really suck as far as I have seen and witnessed. Better to splice your own loops out of airflow material that won't crack and will last along time. Takes awhile to learn the method but you get a very nice durable non- hinging loop.


Brian
 

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Welded loop failure?

Brian - you have experienced welded loop failure? Is this with polyleaders or with factory tips?
 

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I also make my own loops with Gudebrod, nail knot the loose end to prevent fraying (10-12 lb test), and coat only the knot.

My favorite glue for coating the knot is Loon Softhead tying cement. It comes with an applicator brush and dries overnight to a strong flexible bond. One container will last for years and years. Aquaseal, on the other hand, costs $6 a tube and invariably hardens into a brick within a month or so of cracking the seal.

My braided loops are double hitched, and I put one drop of CA glue at the double-hitch point.
 
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