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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I'm in the market for a Sharpes Scottie 12' to 12.5' spliced rod in the 8-9wt range. My hope is to find one in excellent condition, and I know I've seen a few posted on here in the past couple of years. Maybe I'll get lucky and someone is willing to part with theirs. I've only found one in England, but I want to reach out to this community first. Let me know if you have anything that matches this description.

Thanks in advance!
Shaun
 

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I have a 12' ferruled 8 weight. It's fine with full floater and polys. It's collecting dust now that I have several other bamboos. I'll let it go for a song if your interested.
 

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Sharpe 12' 6" spliced rod...hmmm. I have several J S Sharpe catalogues over a twenty year period and I cannot find a 12' 6" spliced rod. I have some 12s and some 13s and one 14 footer as spliced rods, but my 12' 6" Scotties are all ferruled. I think you are looking for a spliced 12' rod for an 8 line.
 

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I purchased, just a few weeks ago, a very nice Sharpes 12 ft spliced cane rod from the UK. That is were they were made and most were sold so it's only natural that is were you have the best chance of finding one via Ebay Looking at the pricing recently I would expect to pay between $300 and $600 for a good one. Don't be worried if the "Sottie" Logo is missing or the model detail. These were made of water based slide transfers and seem to fall off with age regardless of the amount of use. One of the great things about Sharpes Rods is that they were impregnated with some kind of resin which has given the great longevity. Mine came with two tops and is immaculate. They did make a series of rods using metal ferrules instead of splices. The advantage of the metal ferrules is that the rod is quick to assemble without any hassle. But cane rods and metal ferrules have two problems, the first is that the ferrule leads to "flat" spots on the curve of the rod. The second is that there is inherent weakness were the cane and the ferrules meet, some how found out that the cane can break at this stress point. But many have fished cane rods with metal ferrules for many years without a problem. Spliced rods are a hassle to put together, they were originally intended to put together and leave assembled for a period of time. This used to involve using leather thongs or strips to join the sliced joint together. This days most use some kind of adhesive tape instead of the leather. As a side note I use tape and put a deer skin thong over the tape because I think it looks better. Why splice? Number one because it is very strong, number two is that there is virtually no flat spots on the rod so casting is much smoother, but I doubt that only a expert caster would know the difference.

So go ahead and buy one, you will not be disappointed, I'm certainly not, but I am a Brit and somewhat biased!
Barry
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the great feedback and insights! Yeah, it looks like I'm wanting the 12' 8-9wt spliced version. Gonna avoid the ferrules mostly because I want to try something new. I have a couple of good leads abd hoping one works out. I'm 100% going to pick one up, so any recommendations on line weight/grain? Thanks all!
 

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Thanks for all the great feedback and insights! Yeah, it looks like I'm wanting the 12' 8-9wt spliced version. Gonna avoid the ferrules mostly because I want to try something new. I have a couple of good leads abd hoping one works out. I'm 100% going to pick one up, so any recommendations on line weight/grain? Thanks all!
Remember these rods were designed to cast double taper silk lines. I have a problem with Skagit and Scandi lines since they cast a country mile, but you cannot mend the backing to control the drift of the fly, i.e. if the fly is drifting to fast a loop mended upstream will normally slow the drift (swing) down and allow the fly to fish deeper. Equally, if you want to speed the swing up to allow the fly to fish shallower then a downstream mend is generally needed Try to do that with running or shooting line, it can't be done. But mine works well with a compromise long belly skandi line. But even so i'm looking for a silk line that is 8/9 weight.
 

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I have found the 12' 8 wt Sharpe spliced rods to be true 8 weights. You can pretty well do any cast you like on one, but keep in mind that these rods load and unload quite slowly when compared to a graphite rod. So timing is quite different. I use the spliced rods to their full advantage. They really like Scandi casting, and when I use a full line I use a DT 8 salmon taper floater or an Airflo Delta 8/9, the older minty green one. You can do other things...I am sure that someone will say that you can use a Scottie for Skagit casting Sasquatch-sized Intruders on T-heads. But why would you? Any rod you pick up will be between forty and fifty years old, so don't take Grandpa on an Ironman...take him for a gentle walk. He will be around far longer.
 

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Sharpes Scottie 12' spliced pics I



















tbc
 
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Sharpes Scottie 12' spliced pics II


















Mike
 

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Speyducer, Thats a great looking rod, but you need to use it and get it a bit dirty! Wanna sell it?
This one so pictured is already spoken for, but I have a few more. One or two I will be keeping for my own fishing, the rest will be rolled out for offer/sale in due course.


Mike
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Hi all, my current search for this rod is postponed because of unforeseen circumstances. For anyone who offered to sell to me, I greatly appreciate it. I'm sure you'll be able to pass your extremely nice examples to a willing buyer on this site.
 
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