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Discussion Starter #1
Each time I use my relatively new ARC 1409 with Rio's Grand Spey 7/8, the more I like the rod and combination.

There is one problem. In spite of taping the ferrules, they still work loose. I have been using a two inch wide roll of electrical tape with about 2.5 to 3 wraps.

After a few casts and in particuliar the Snake Roll, I have to straighten up the ferrules and press on the tape. The tape is really sticky and hard to get off at the end of the day.

Does anyone have any suggestions above and beyound the taping? Should I go to a narrower tape and put a few more wraps on it?
:confused:

Thanks!
 

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GS,

Maybe the 1409 is a different animal, but I never tape my 1509 and haven't had a problem. Are you sure you're twisting the ferrules down tightly enough before taping?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
De barb

"Are you sure you're twisting the ferrules down tightly enough before taping?"

If I twisted my Sage rods down as tight as I do my ARC 1409, I probably couldn't get them separated afterwards.
 
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I've found that it takes a lengthwise strip of tape spanning the ferrule connection before doing the spiral wrap to keep things tight. On a particularly large butt section you might even want to do one on each side of the blank. I've yet to have any ferrule work loose from this taping method.
 

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I've been using the most narrow 3M electrical tape I can find (Home Depot or the like). It may not even be an inch wide. I've found that it is more effective as it stretches tightly around the ferrules. I spiral wrap up and back down over itself. The wide tape doesn't want to stretch and adhere as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
JR SPEY, Moose How to tape ARC 1409

Thanks, I will try both of your suggestions and maybe combine them.

Looking back, when I first got the rod, I used a narrow tape, and it seemed to work okay. Then, I tried the wide tape that I have used with my Sages (it works okay with them). So I will leave it at home.
 

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I have the 1509 and have broken the middle ferrul twice. Lesson learned, now I wax and tape. Rods must have slight differences in how well they seat together, Debarb, you lucky dog! Even taped this joint likes to go for a walk. There is a line guide very close to the end of the female ferrul allowing only 1 wrap of tape and I must start the tape here, wrap it several layers thick and then start down over the male end. Taping from the male end up does not work because I only have room for 1 revolution of tape before running into the guide. Brainstorm! I can run a strip of tape on the side opposite the guide (dorsal) first and proceed to spiral tape down the joint. I'll try that today.

Hey, any comments on the differences between the 1409 and the 1509. I have never cast the 1409. link
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Brainstorm

Brainstorm! "I can run a strip of tape on the side opposite the guide (dorsal) first and proceed to spiral tape down the joint. I'll try that today."

That sounds like a good approach. Also, I will go back to prewaxing the male ferrules before connecting them.

This movement seems to be temperature related. The hotter the air temp, the more movement I get with my 1409. Also, if the wind is really blowing there seems to be more movement. We have a lot of heavy line on a cast, and the wind at times can probably makes that line heavier.

My Sage rods that get stuck on me, seem to get stuck when it is hot when I put them together. Then, at the end of the day when it is cooler, they stick together.
 

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Grampa,

I'll keep the wind and temperature in mind over the next sessions with my Scott and see if I notice anything. Also, thanks for the tip about the narrower tape. I think it will help me get a tighter, more secure wrap. I'll cast my Grand Spey and then some lighter lines to find out if there is more movement with the heavier line. Thanks, Link
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Link

I have cast my MS on the same days that I have casted my GS, and there is a lot less movement re the ferrules with the MS with the ARC 1409 versus the Grand Spey.

There are probably some engineers in the group that can calculate the effect of the weight of the line in the air, air temp, fly weight, and wind re probable ferrule movements.

Of course all of that math theory goes out the window when you move down stream into what I call a black hole. Where you have an obvious and some times not obvious eddy where your cast is trying to anchor, and there is a change in wind currents. Now when I move into one of these Spey Casting Black Holes, I just move on downstream until I'm out of the vortex or back upstream.
 

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Hello All:

The ARC rods are different from the A2's and most other Spey rods in that they have an internal ferrule, which is made of the same material as the blank sections it joins. There is less surface area for engagement with the internal ferrule, and I think that may be one reason they tend to twist and loosen.

I have for many years used 3M electrical tape (get the contractor's pack at Home Depot). Start the windingsabout 1.5" above the joint, spiral the tape under tension overlapping half the previous winding across the joint and about 2" below, then back over itself to near the top. I find this very secure, and easier than two lengthwise strips followed by spiral tape. If you cut the tag end on the opposite side of the rod than the guides, if the tage end loosens a bit, it still won't catch any line being shot, and also, you know where to feel for the tag end when it gets dark.

Link; the 1409 ARC is a softer, more through action (more traditional) than the progressive action ARC 1509.
 
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