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Meiser, Beulah, and OPST two handers; Scott & Orvis single handers. Danielsson and Orvis Reels
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The thread below on Aero Lines has a post asking about welding a front loop on these lines. It got me to thinking, how essential is the welded front loop? For most of my fly fishing career, front loops were formed with heavy mono nail-knotted to the front of the line. I don't recall catching more fish when line makers started putting front loops on the lines. I went to a clave and had a lesson which included cutting off my nail-knotted mono loop and replacing it with loop made of nylon net. I was told the line hinges when a nail-knotted tip section is attached. Personally, I like the knot-knotted mono better than the welded loop. What's the skinny on this?
 

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I've never noted any hinging in speylines with the nail knot/perfection loop set-up when using 25/30 lbs mono and I like to keep this section to six inches or so but sometimes as long as a foot. I prefer the welded loop on full-floaters with long leaders because when landing fish and it wants to take that last-run, the cleaner connection it will slip through the guides much easier. The braided mono loops I don't like very much because they are the least durable method. Also - the way braided mono loops are shown to be rigged seems as though it would be more likely to hinge. I never did it as shown and instead, I would run the fly line all the way and (if you are familiar) into the return loop. I would often have to replace the loop several times a year burning up a lot of tip so I simply stopped using them.
 

· JD
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less knots= better

Nail knot a short section of mono to your line, with a perfection loop at the end, attached to the leader which has a perfection loop, and you have three knots. Welded loop at the end of the line, leader attached by perfection loop= one knot. Less knots to have to go through the tip top. Less knots to fail.
 

· slipped away to grey...
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I just double over my fly line and create a loop by making two small nail knots with 8 pound fluoro to hold the doubled over part together.

You don't need to "double up" the line for as long of a distance as you do with welded loops and they don't fail, you can also make the loops very small aiding in turn over and more delicate presentations for lighter weight stuff...

If the line has a welded loop on the front, I use it, if they don't, I do the above.
 

· JD
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Btdt

Eventually all of these methods will start to fail at some point. My field fix is TheSwingingFly method. When doing welded loops, I use a section of old running line, or the back end of an old fly line for my loops. By shaving the end of the fly line & staggering the length of the legs on the loop, I get a nice smooth weld that goes through the guides nice. They used to come apart on me now & then. But I've become better at welding them.
 

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I just double over my fly line and create a loop by making two small nail knots with 8 pound fluoro to hold the doubled over part together.

You don't need to "double up" the line for as long of a distance as you do with welded loops and they don't fail, you can also make the loops very small aiding in turn over and more delicate presentations for lighter weight stuff...

If the line has a welded loop on the front, I use it, if they don't, I do the above.
It's even simpler than that!

double over the raw end of your fly line, and then nail-knot your 25-30lb mono to both hold that fly line loop and create a mono loop (I prefer double surgeon's or fig 8 loop) in its distal end.


Mike
 
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