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Is there a difference between paraffin and beeswax, as I have hear of both being used?
I got out today for the first time with my spey rod, and despite a cold gusty wind and dirty river (ahh urban angling), I have concluded that I am going to have a lot of fun in the near future!!
Thanks,
Mike:D
 

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"To wax, or not to wax, that is the question. Twether it's

..... I'll spare you the rest.:hehe:

From all my spey rods I've found it's a function of the rod. Some need it, some don't. Example: Sages WAX and tape, Scott' no point, brings nothing to the party.Don't know if it really makes a great difference in which type of wax you use as some folks have a strong preference for one of the other. I use a 'sented' candle wax (goooood quality!!) as they usually have oil in them which adds something to my party. (At least I've convinced myself they do).

Go to ISC board and look this up under the past threads and you'll find a long discussion on the subject. End game was, it's like women: why do some men prefer blonds, redhead's, etc. All have something to bring to the table (God, that's a lousy way of putting it!), so more of what works for you.

BUT wax or no, as your rod line size moves up taping the ferrels can be more of a 'save your rod' issue than waxing or not. As an aside, if you get ferrels that stick (read that weld) themselves together take some alum. foil, fill it with ice cubes wrap this around the stuck fer. and leave it for several minutes. A will pop off from B as pretty as you'll ever please. (Sage blanks can be nasty for this):razz:
 

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Mike there was actually a post regarding this on the Forum and if you search under 'Ferrules' you will find it.

I got my 9140-4 stuck together a while back and took some cookking oil dripped down the side to get it loose.
 

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From a Gray-haired East Coast type: Beeswax. Beeswax grips and still lubricates enuff to separate sections; IMO paraffin is too stiff or brittle. Paraffin is good for things like the drawer slides in your old bureau, but not for rod ferrules. Beeswax is still one of the two best dubbing tacks for tying.

Agree taping larger weight rods is a saving feature.
 

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I know a guy who uses crayolas with good results - comes in a handy dispenser too...

my .02
 

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Ryan, interesting you should mention it's

your Sage 9140-4 that has the ferrel sticking problem. Same here! The 1015 will get tight but not to the point I've not been able to seperate the two center sections. The 9140-4 .... Wow, the two mid sections will come together like you'd welded them.

The ice 'trick' has worked several times.
fe
 

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DFix said:
From a Gray-haired East Coast type: Beeswax. Beeswax grips and still lubricates enuff to separate sections; IMO paraffin is too stiff or brittle. Paraffin is good for things like the drawer slides in your old bureau, but not for rod ferrules. Beeswax is still one of the two best dubbing tacks for tying.

Agree taping larger weight rods is a saving feature.
From A grey haired old fart from the west coast BEESWAX DEFINITELY SUPERIOR to pariffin especially during the heat of summer and holds up better in the cold of winter.

-----saltRon
 

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More important than wax.. more important than tape is to make sure your sections are properly seated together!!!!!!!! Loose ferrule= broken rod!!!!! On my spey rods I push the sections together almost as hard as I can push!!!! Unless the rod is imporperly built you won't split it out or wear it out! I see lots of people snug the sections together then tape them up thinking they are ok.

This is why I do NOT tape my ferrules once you tape them you cannot tell if they are coming loose or not. I have seen lots and lots of rods that were taped and the ferrules still worked lose and broke.. There are definetly pro's and con's but nothing will help you more than properly seating the ferrules and checking them often...
 

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Wax for ferrules

A product is available which is a mixture of beeswax and parrafin, by the name of "Ferrule Wax-It.". A lifetime supply is a disc about 1.5 inches in diameter and 0.25 inches thick and costs a few bucks. It works very well. The evidence of its effectiveness, in my experience, is that snake guides do not lose alignment and ferrules remain tight. When no wax is used I find that rod sections will first rotate out of alignment then loosen.

In addition to keeping guides in alignment and ferrules tight, the wax makes disassembly considerably easier. Today I did a brief practice session, did not wax and disassembly was a b---h. Also during the session tape on one joint showed rotational creases giving me advance warning of a loosening ferrule.

Taping is a subject with diverse opinions. The last thread on the subject showed a majority believed in taping, and [I think] waxing. If you watch a video of the 2002 Spey Clave in Sandy, OR, you will see a famous caster who does not tape, tighten his ferrules frequently almost as a nevous habit.

I'm not smart enought to keep track of which rod, or which ferrule of which rod requires taping and/or waxing and which does not. So I use a one method for all.

Remember that when practicing with a bit of yarn as a fly, there is no hook to catch flying tips.

One poster, roballen I think, has a good thought that waxing, taping etc. must not be an excuse to ignore the condition of your ferrules. Keep an eye on them regardless of which practice you follow. In a week-long session of fishing at a camp where rod disassembly is not required, ferrules must be watched. I don't think there is a fool proof method to keep every ferrule tight for 50+ hours of casting.
 

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Beeswax

Beeswax works the best. Just "borrow" a used one from your wife. The only problem is in California, in the summer time, it can get well over a 100 degrees in the back of your vehicle. This will melt your beeswax candles. So I toss it in a sandwich baggie and throw it in my cooler with cold juices and soup to cool me down when I get back.

All of my two handed rods needed the Beeswax and Sage was the worst.

I don't own a 9140 and have found that daily trips with my Sage Spey Rods don't require bees wax. Taping is more important to me. Bob Meiser's two handed switch rods don't require wax or tape.

A warning about beeswax. About 4 years ago I was on the Upper Sac in May. I was waxing the ferrules of the two rods I would be using. I heard a big buzzing sound and it was a swarm of honey bees buzzing around my vehicle and me. I threw the candle as far away as I could. They swarmed around it. There must have been some bee Pherome in the bees wax. I put the rods in the back of my vehicle and went a couple of hundred yards away from the bees and their candle.
 

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Bill.. we have both seen the same rods broken because of loose ferrules that were taped. I don't know Kerry's exact view and this weekend my rods will be taped because other people will be casting them but they will also be seated properly..

And i just thought of this I don't know how other manufacturers make their rods so maybe i should let thoes manufacturers make their own recommendations but I have seen a lot more rods broken due to loose ferrules than by seating them too hard. I have bever seen one broken because it was seated too hard.

Anyeay we plan to be at oxbow this weekend so maybe ask him:) Hope to see you there..
 

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I hate to embarass myself by letting people see me spey cast, but I'll be there! The only way to get better is to learn and spend time on the water, right? There is too little of the latter, but I can make it this weekend to learn some more. Haven't decided yet if I'm camping or driving in each day.

Look forward to seeing you there, and casting some superior rods so I know what I'm missing. I need to find a light weight rod for my kids and for my arthritis. Unfortunately, not in the market for a Burkheimer, but I hope to cast at least one to benchmark what the best feel like--as if I could tell with my casting!

--Bill
 

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Bill Kerry just designed a 12ft 5 in 7wt that is really sweet and takes no energy at all to cast.
He designed it to cast the 678 floating windcutter. I took one cast with it and decided i wanted one.. With this rod you can pretty much just let your arms fall and it throws 50 feet and if you put a little effort into making it right it will go 70 and if you actually put real effort into casting it 90feet is pretty easy.. Which is what kerry wants with these light rods he doesn't necessarily want them to be cannons but to be very very very easy to cast and to actually load at very short range..

We have plenty or rods for booming out looong casts.. this one is just to make fishing fun and easy.. I think we will have one there this weekend
 

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Would you collectively consider educating me as to how? a properly seated, then spiral taped, ferrule connection loosens to the point of breaking? Some of you might think, if you could see me seat my ferrules, that they were permanently jammed and unmoveable after I'm done, but it's not the case. I can feel pressure fit when I do it, and if I feel I need to tape the joint afterward, I will, but I've never had a ferrule joint loosen or disintegrate after taping - does that make me a exception rather than a rule?

In terms of carrying beeswax, I either melt it to liquid, then pour it into a stopped paper towel or toilet paper roller, let it set up enough to strip, then cut it into dots with a piece of wire, or pour it into a film canister and cap it. Yes, Grampa, it's melted into my vest in the car, too :whoa:
 

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Dfix My entire point is that tapng doesn't do any good if the sections are not properly seated. I have seen lots of rods that were taped come back broken because the ferrules were loose. If you have a method that works for you thats great..:)
 
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