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Picked up a pair of Simms guide boots on closeout "Previous model" with felt bottoms. Anyone Have any experience with studs on the felt bottoms? I want to use Kold Kutters and just wandering how they'll hold up. Thx for any feedback.
 

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Hacker
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Not much to say. I have the new model in felt and use studs on them and they work fantastic. I had the rubber soled before and use fewer studs on the felt. Maybe a dozen per boot.
 

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Pupil of the river.
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Studs and Felt

No matter what, the studs always pull out or dull. I've tried a lot of them on a lot of boots. Just keep slapping them in.

Completely necessary on any river with ledge rock and big cobbles.
 

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Pupil of the river.
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Kold Kutters

Just checked out the Kold Kutters. They look like a really economical option. I'm considering adding some crazy glue or some other kind of adhesive to the studs when I put the next set in. They pull out too easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks

Yeah I've had some Problems with my G4 boots & the cleats popping out. I just wanted to try a pair of the felt bottoms out and figured I would screw some studs in. U can order the Kold Kutters over the phone from Malinda's in NY. Shoot me a PM if you want her number. 100 for $14.99
 

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I am all too familiar with kold cutters. They dull just like anything else and become worthless. Aluminum bars seem to work best.
 

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Scandit sublima virtus
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went to studded felt guide and g4 guide boots several years ago, and won't ever go to anything else. No need to.

(Well, maybe if they could keep the durability and drop a couple pounds worth of weight I'd consider it.)
 

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Trust me ... They will!

Picked up a pair of Simms guide boots on closeout "Previous model" with felt bottoms. Anyone Have any experience with studs on the felt bottoms? I want to use Kold Kutters and just wandering how they'll hold up. Thx for any feedback.
Pre-drill the pilot hole and slop on Gorilla Glue on the KK's threads. FELT HAS TO BE DAMP TO ACTIVATE THE GLUE!! In they go and they're going to stay there until you 'unscrew' them to replace over time. Couple words of caution (that come to mind) is they're a 'no-no' in a wood boat and in a Allie boat, the 'metal on metal' takes some caution as you get in-out of the boat to fish.

But grab on the bottom when you're fishing? So Yes! You could run up the side a tree with these things in your boot bottoms. That last bit is highly not recommended for folks my age. ;)

fae
 

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I have been using the kold cutters on a couple of boots and they do great - they are cheap enough that you can replace when they wear but even dull they work pretty well
 

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I've been using the Simms screw in cleats for my G4 felt bottoms. They work great but man I still need my wading staff in those GD Steelhead rivers as with the odd sized rock bottoms where they like to live its slicker then snot! Want to give the KK a shot after these wear out. Anyone know if they last as long as the Simms oem cleats....or do you constantly have to change them. Haven't had one Simms cleat come out in over 20 days on the river although definitely some wear.
 

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Scandit sublima virtus
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Can anybody tell me what length of Kold Kutters they use? I would think either 3/8 or 5/8?
 

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Scandit sublima virtus
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they stay in OK Rustybee? How long have you had them in?
 

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also using the 3/8 and have not had one pull out with over 20 trips with them. Use a good socket wrench to seat them deep in the felt
 

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Scandit sublima virtus
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thanks for the info, guys. I have several sets of studs that need rehab, it'll help me stay vertical while fishing this winter and I'm grateful.
 

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No Magic Bullet;

I am all too familiar with kold cutters. They dull just like anything else and become worthless. Aluminum bars seem to work best.
I had been wondering about the aluminum bar type anti slip approach myself. I've tried many different cleats and have lost some of every brand. I don't think loss is related to anything other than that we are inserting these small screws into a rubber like substrate and they are pulled out as they get scuffed & torqued as we walk. I may try adhesive on the threads when I apply more this winter.

This past season I had a fellow with me who had the aluminum bars on his wading boots. I did not know this until I found one lying amongst the rocks in the river. All I saw was bright metal so I reached in and snatched it only to realize what it was. There on the bottom were a couple screws as well. Before the day was done I had collected a second of the bars and returned both to the man.

What that told me was that as of this time there is no perfect method of applying a stud - cleat or bar to our wading boots. I have found that the rather costly Simms hard bite star cleat stays in longer than any other that I have tried. They have a slightly lower profile which no doubt lends itself to their longevity but because of the low profile may not grip as well as others. I wade with the phrase that Dirty Harry kept repeating in the movie Magnum Force, "A man's gotta know his limitations". And that's what I've learned about cleats. One more thing; the factory cleated boots that Orvis sold years ago, the Hennery's Fork boot, they were the best I ever had and they were on a rubber soled boot. They never came out, they worked well and I was very disappointed to learn they were no longer offered............. Typical huh? Worked great, discontinued :Eyecrazy:
 

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What that told me was that as of this time there is no perfect method of applying a stud - cleat or bar to our wading boots.
I agree. I've burned a fair amount of money and experimented with most, if not all, wading boot permutations. All have their drawbacks. The bars have their appeal but I have had them warp, come loose and discovered their gripping limitations on certain surfaces. In the end, I always come back to felt with studs and accept that I will have to replace the studs frequently.
 

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Screwing upside-down

I just bought a pair of rubber-soled Toggs, and I want to armor-plate them for New Zealand. Has anyone tried a combination of steel or carbide plus aluminum screws?
 
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