You could also do it yourself in about 20-30 minutes...
1.) Find an old sturdy cardboard box which is about 8" shorter than the section of rod you want to work with.
2.) Cut two V shaped notches in the box and rest the rod in them so that the reelseat is in one of the notches and the end of the rod (male ferrule end) is in another.
3.) Wrap a couple of turns of masking tape around the end of the rod section (male ferrule end). This will protect it when you chuck it up in your drill.
4.) Position a hand drill with various props (not sure how high a box you'll have so can't give much suggestion here) so that the taped male ferrule end can rest in the drill chuck and in the box V notches without putting any stress on the blank from the weight of the drill.
5.) Place the male ferrule end in the drill chuck and tighten SLOWLY and NOT TOO TIGHT. This is the only place you could really screw up and damage your rod by crushing the ferrule. Better to be safe and have to rechuck it a couple of times during the process than to break your ferrule into tiny bits.
6.) Cut several strips (1.5" * 8") of sandpaper-- one each in 60, 100, 150, 200, 300, 400, and 600 grit.
7.) Turn the drill on and make sure your rod section spins evenly in the notches...any notable wobble will get you a funny looking grip.
8.) As the handle is spinning, use the strips of sandpaper to slowly take off cork. Note that you'll want to start with 60 grit for general shaping, and then move to 100, and so on down the line. Remember that you can always take more off...but it's really hard to add back on if you're too liberal with the 60 grit shaping! Do a good bit of work with the final grades (400, 600) to get an exceptionally smooth handle.
9.) Optional-- get some Tru-Oil gunstock conditioner and apply it to the grip with your finger. Wet-sand as it turns with 600 grit sandpaper. Do so for about 30 seconds. Wipe off excess with a paper towel and buff out. Repeat as many times as desired to get a dark-stained grip that will never discolor or dirty up.
