Spey Pages banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First let me say that I am new to this group but have been reading the posts for months. Out here in the wild rockies (and 1000 miles from a steelhead) I have had a ton of success using "spey" rods and streamers for trout. I will post some pics of my trout "spey" flies, waddingtons and scuplins when I get the chance.

All that said.....

I have been tying tube flies for years on a HMH extention kit. I was just given a Renzetti tube fly vice. It came with the "standard" 1/16 mandral.

Can anyone help me with a strong push in the right direction as to where to find tubes (copper and aluminium) for this vice? I am more than happy to get a different mandral from Renzetti (they make 1/32 and 1/8) but I am stumped :Eyecrazy:

Any suggestions will be greatly excepted!

If anyone finds themselves in Colorado fishing for trout, drop me a line!

I am looking forward to becoming a member of this group
 

·
Mr. Mom
Joined
·
625 Posts
rkymtnspey said:
I have been tying tube flies for years on a HMH extention kit. I was just given a Renzetti tube fly vice. It came with the "standard" 1/16 mandral.

Can anyone help me with a strong push in the right direction as to where to find tubes (copper and aluminium) for this vice? I am more than happy to get a different mandral from Renzetti (they make 1/32 and 1/8) but I am stumped :Eyecrazy:
Search the net for Rooney Tube Works. Get the light copper tubes. They are unlined, but flared at the front. The best thing is they weigh about the same, and fish just like a standard hook. They will not plane up in fast current, snag the bottom in slow current, or knock you insensible with a resounding blow to the back of the head. Only problem is I have all three renzetti mandrels and I'm not sure off the top of my head if it's the 1/32 or 1/16th that fits these.
 

·
Member FRSCA
Joined
·
2,264 Posts
rkymtnspey said:
I will post some pics of my trout "spey" flies, waddingtons and scuplins when I get the chance.
Very curious to see some of your patterns, theres a few of here in MI that do the same thing, with some great success also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,027 Posts
peter-s-c said:
Always check your local R/C Aircraft hobby shop for tupe materials as well. That's where I get mine.
Me too; copper, alum, white plastic tubing in several different sizes are normally available. You will have to get a small cutter (about $5.00) and a 'reamer' to cut/flair out the front of the tube.

For mand's, check finishing nails at your local hardware store (this assumes you don't already have a set). They actually work very well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Ditto on the finishing nails for mandrels. I just put a right-sized finishing nail in the jaws of an old thompson vice and it works great.. Also take a look at cotter keys in the hardware section ...with a pair of pliers and some imagination you can have about every size and weight of waddington type arrangement, and by choosing the weights and length/diameter sizes and metals for the base material ,the options are unlimited...I tied some on brass(or brass like heavy metal ) cotter keys that were the perfect dredger base for creating a pattern to try the bottom area of a pool you had never been able to reach before....
 

·
Member FRSCA
Joined
·
2,264 Posts
finish nail mandrels

Finish nails are also the perfect size mandrel for an empty ink cartridge from a Bic pen, or a plastic shaft Q-tip.
 

·
Mr. Mom
Joined
·
625 Posts
fredaevans said:
Me too; copper, alum, white plastic tubing in several different sizes are normally available. You will have to get a small cutter (about $5.00) and a 'reamer' to cut/flair out the front of the tube.

For mand's, check finishing nails at your local hardware store (this assumes you don't already have a set). They actually work very well.
Hey Fred, what's the smallest cutter and reamer you have found? I can't find anything that'll go under 1/8th, and there are some very nice smaller tubes available at the hobby shop :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Philster said:
Hey Fred, what's the smallest cutter and reamer you have found? I can't find anything that'll go under 1/8th, and there are some very nice smaller tubes available at the hobby shop :mad:
I was thinking about this last night. Why not use a dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut the tubes? Dremel also has some small stone bits that would be good for cleaning off any burs. If you wanted to flare the ends you could put a small fly tying bead on your tying desk, put the tube over the bead and give the other end a tap with a small jewler's hammer. (Or in my case, any hard, non breakable, object.) Turn the tube over and tap the other end. Keep in mind I haven't tried any of this myself.
 

·
Jack Cook
Joined
·
1,668 Posts
Tube Supplies at The Irish Angler

If you don't want to make your own I have a whopping supply of copper, aluminum and plastic from Veniard's as well as Micro plastic tubing and of course the lovely tube bodies of Yuri Shumakov.

Knock yourselves out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,414 Posts
My tube recipe

Tubes I use:

5/32 copper and aluminum tubes that are avail in any hobby shop that carries K&S metal tubes. They are 12" long and run at about $1 each. I then line these with 1/8 ID black automotive air brake line. It is about 20 cents a foot.
I use the metal tubes if I need the weight to get the fly down, otherwise the air brake tubing is fine on its own...and a lot less work than making metal tubes.

Line the metal tube with the air brake tubing, and leave the front end of the air brake liner about 1/16th of an inch longer than the metal tube. Heat the air brake liner tube carefully with a lighter and the result will be a beautifully rolled back lip that rivals factory made tubes.

I leave the rear portion of the liner tube about 1/4 " long and roll the end back with a lighter, this creates a bit of a barb for the hook holder or junction tube.

I then take a short piece of medical IV tubing and slip this over the rear of the liner and bind it down onto the liner tube, with tying thread.

One thing I did forget to mention was how to cut the tubes to length.

After much tinkering around I found that a mini tube cutter is the best way. You can find these in any hobby shop or a hardware store. They are simply a mini version of a common pipe cutter that plumbers use......Forget using a hacksaw....it only makes burrs in the tube that are difficult to remove.

For Metal Tubing

The important part about using the cutter is NOT to go all the way through the tube , as it creates a narrowing of the tube wall. What you want to do is to use the cutter to simply score the tube. I adjust the cutter so it makes contact with the tube wall. Then tighten the cutter wheel lightly on the tube, rotate the cutter until it rotates freely without any drag, then adjust it once more and take another couple of turns.

Now stop cutting....remember all you want to do is score it....much like cutting glass. Then I place both thumbs on opposite sides of the score line and gently flex the tubing back and forth
( works best on copper) until it snaps cleanly. If you have made too deep a cut you will need to ream out the cut end. I simply use my scissors in a closed position. Insert the tapered part of my scissors into the narrowing of the tube and lightly ream out the mouth of the tube until the liner fits nicely into the metal tube.

Cutting the Air Brake Tubing: Is done with a safety razor blade; cut it perpendicular to the length for a nice clean, square edge.

By the way ...the liner is Air brake line tubing found in any good automotive store. I use LORDCO here in BC Canada ( not sure if you have that store in the U.S or not). If the parts guy is having a hard time understanding what you need , tell him it is the same line used in the tractor trailer transmission shifters, for the big rigs that use air shifters in their tranny's. It is black, is 1/8th inch inside diameter. Don't get the clear it doesn't melt as nicely as the black.

Also the IV tubing is the best that I have found for making the junction or hook holder , especially when making metal tubes. The reason being, it is very thin walled and it will match the metal tubing diameter exactly without a big lump as you will get if you use air line for aquariums. Makes for a very even body on the fly when finished.
 

·
Jack Cook
Joined
·
1,668 Posts
I have the Frodin stuff coming on my next Guidelines parcel.

I will have the tubes, colored tubes, and coneheads to match.

I need my computer back so I can update the website.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,027 Posts
Philster said:
Hey Fred, what's the smallest cutter and reamer you have found? I can't find anything that'll go under 1/8th, and there are some very nice smaller tubes available at the hobby shop :mad:
Phil, 'we' have a model airplane shop in Medford that carries just about anything you could immagine. The cutter I have (full size) could just about be covered by a silver dollar. These cutters were designed/sold to model makers for gas lines, etc. (have no idea what the etc., could be :hihi: )

Forgot to mention, the tube materials (brass, alum., white plastic) usually come in one foot lengths and are cheap as dirt.

Anyway, if you need one, and or the tiny reemer, shoot me a e mail ([email protected]) and I'll get/mail one out to you.

Fred

Should have added: Norse above has nailed it on the 'how' of making your own tube flys. He stole all his info from me. :lildevl:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,414 Posts
Fred

Should have added: Norse above has nailed it on the 'how' of making your own tube flys. He stole all his info from me. :lildevl:[/QUOTE]



He heheheh.......good one Fred. :hihi:
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top