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Discussion Starter #1
For my tube flys I usually use either the Partridge 3x short #4's or the Loop double tube fly hooks. Both are excellent.

But, has anyone tried "circle hooks" on tube flys? And if so, who makes a short shank hook that would be appropriate for tube fly work?

fae
 

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circle

someone gave a friend of mine some to try on a BC river 2 summers ago.missed the first 3 fish and changed hooks. i dont believe most steelhead hold a fly long enough or turn completely enough to set them good enough as aggressive feeding fish do with bait. i agressively hit my fish as soon as i fell a solid take.i land about 80%.you cant hit with a circle hook.if i waited on a fish that did not agressively take and turn i would not hook at that ratio. plus hitting is most of the fun.it makes them scream line off the reel.none of my fish are every hooked inside the m outh,so the most important reason to use a circle is moot for me and i imagine most fly hooked fish.i have thought a lot about it. what i would like is a hook with the same shape as a circle but without the bent point.
beau
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Beau, take a look at the wide gap Mustad's

such as the 37160's. These are 'designed' for wets, nymphs and to a smaller degree, streamers. Even the 'smaller' sizes of these hooks have a very wide gap, so you may get the results your looking for.

Good points you made above; think I'll save my money.
:smokin:
 

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tube hooks

fred,
thks for the comments.when i go to canada for my one week i always experiment withe 2-3 new hooks and new flys and colors.it always costs me a few fish but it is fun and i learn things that way. the best hook i ever used for hooking fish is the owner J HOOK. it is a hook i use for texas bass. i have had a couple of trips where i have hooked 100% but when i use it in a size 1, which is astheticaly more appealing it will not hold up to those badass B.C. chromers fresh from the sea.but in a 1/0 or 2/0 it seems to be fine.i used the 2/0 on spring chinook one summer and was 100% up to 35#s.the other thing i have learned is to change my hook and knots after every fish i hook.sometimes you lose fish because of the slightest change in the angle of the hook,somthing you cant even see.last yr i was cruising along at 8 for 10 and all of a sudden went 2or3for 10.changed the hook and was right back at 80%.nothing i could see.i settled in on the owner ssw in size1. learned a new way to tie it so that it stood out straight on tube flies and also worked on my shanks.i like a hook that is offset or twisted. also did well with owner AKI twist hooks. Beau
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Interesting 'hook of choice' discussion going here.

Anyone used the 'true turn' hooks for fly work? Idea sounds interesting, even if ends up being a dud.
fae
 

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Let us know what the experiment results are of the circle hooks for steelhead?

Lipripper in another thread indicated success with egg flies but not streamers or other steelhead patterns (nymphs, speys, etc)

I am doubtful of their benefits for steelhead.

But then again I have always been a late adopter of new technology waiting for others to prove its worth and for its cost to decrease. :hehe:

Call me cheap if you like, but I have not purchased many white elephants in my life (Except for my 1974 Fiat 124 sport coupe which depleted my bank accounts !! :whoa: )
 

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I can laugh now, but my bank account was not laughing back then between that Fiat and the NY and NJ ladies, the $$$ were outgoing during my batchelor days. Investments in more fly fishing gear were minimal in those days.

I agree believe the circle hooks are for bait fishing as several experts have stated, but they are so new perhaps they do have certain fly fishing applications. We will see.
 

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Fred, this thread is giving me deja-vu, I think there was a similar one about a year ago. I have used a variety of hooks on my tubes with the partridge nordic single(#6-#2)getting the most swim time. Also like to try a variety of hooks every year, this year I got given a sample pack of owner hooks that I believe were designed as trailers. These hooks were red with close to a straight eye(just the slightest of bend to the eye), sharp as could be and really held fish well. Unfortunately I don't have the model # in front of me but I believe the were a #2. These hooks worked well for tubes but really were great in a loop behind staight shank flies. As for the circles I have actually fished them behind tubes quite a bit. The ones I have had the most success with are the eagle claw(2050fs circle fly I believe)in a size #1 and #1/0. I started fishing these about three years ago just to try something different and found some advantage with them. I only fish them occassionally now, as I believe you do hook a slightly smaller percentage of fish than say the nordic(single tube) hook. The main time that I will fish them is when there are a lot of leaves in the river as the leaves tend to not get caught as easily. Anybody who has fished the Bulkley in mid October knows how anoying this can be. In cold winter water sometimes,on certain rivers,it is neccessarry to fish close to the bottom.When dredging the hooks rarely catch bottom and the point isn't damaged by touching the occassional rock. Also when fishing early season, when there may be lots of spawning salmon around, the circles eliminate snagged fish. As stated above, there is probably a trade off in hooking percentage and I now only use these hooks in special instances. I feel that hooking percentage goes WAY down if your of the inkling to strike your fish.Personally I always let the fish turn with my fly(any type of hook) so this helps with the circles. As someone else stated, this is a hook designed for bait. In this function the bait is swallowed and then hooked on the lip on the way out eliminating(in theory) gut hookings.(hmm,maybe not a bad idea for goo chuckers who bar fish?) The circle hook does not work this way when fly fishing. The fish grabs the fly, turns to swim back to it's lie,the hook turns and slides into the corner of the mouth(safest place to hook fish-for both of you)and whammo...you've got him!I think if one were to strike at the slightest hint of a bite, the circle would be rendered useless.One last thing about the circles: They tend to pierce through the lip around the max making for a small tidy hole that doesn't get torn up (seriously it looks just like your kid with a lip ring) and seems to stay in better than conventional short shanks. Once again I feel compelled to say that most of the time you'll find my flies sporting the nordics, but to discount circles completely as BAIT HOOKS is foolish.
Brian Niska:tsk_tsk:
 

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Brian,

Wasn't that you with the lip ring?

I do agree with you that the best hook I have used in my tubes is the Nordic Single Spey. Unfortunately, these hooks are hard to get. I think some of you guys in the tackle industry should really put some effort into convincing companies like Loop who make a fabulous double hook for tubes that there really is a viable market for single tube hooks here in North America.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Brian, your correct "we" had quite a discussion going

about a year ago (another old thread) about hook choice for tube flys. As I recall, the #4 TMC's and the Loop Doubles were the 'hands down' winner(s). Personally use the singles during the spring/summer and the Loop doubles during the winter. The Loop hooks are the only 'short shank' doubles I've ever seen available. But as Hal says above, new teck, better results?

All-be-it I haven't turned Medford/Ashland upside down looking for anyone's brand of circle hooks, rather suspect that no one down here even stocks the things. It's catalog time or no time.
:>)

Darn, almost forgot: That's one cool looking fly pictured above. As someone already noted: looking forward to hearing the results of field tests.
fae
 

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Loop Nordic versusu TMC 105's

I was able to get some of the Nordic hooks out of Loop last year. They are a much heavier wire hook than the TMC's. If you have a tube that just barely fits a TMC size 4, you will have to use a size 6 Nordic. The bigger the hook, the bigger the gap! Who know's what difference that makes.
 

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The X points are a heavier wire than the TMC's. Again, where you can use a size 4 TMC, you can only use a size 6 Nordic or x point. I carrry all three in my little box, but usully select the TMC because the gap is a bit bigger. I wished that I had caught enough fish to say that one is better than the other!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Great question Pete. Babless, or no, doesn't seem to

make much difference on the hook up rate. But what I have found is that I've hooked (solidly) far more fish (same pattern) using the Waddington Shanks. Go figure? (In context, Malcom sent these to me earlier this year so no real winter fishing experiments with them ... yet.)

Overall length of the fly's the same, the hooks attached with a short piece of tubing, etc. Only real difference is the Waddington's slightly "off set" the hook due to the bent ring at the end of the shank.

95% of the time I'm using a short shanked, ring eyed # 4 hook. With 'summer steelhead' or the fall kings I've not found a reason to use the loop double hooks. For winter fishing/spring kings these are the preferred hook. One group of fish tend to "munch" the fly and you've got a 'self-set.' With winter fish the pattern appears to be 'pick it up, spit it right out,' double hooks take care of this problem.
fae
 

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I bought a few packages of the Daiichi x points the last couple of months, I really like this hook, it is strong has a decent gap, and their new x point design. Heavy field testing still to come, will use on my tubes. They call it "the ultimate weapon in penetration".

Looking at the x point under the maginfying glass I believe them.:whoa:
 

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hooks

i ment to answer peters ?s. did not realize there was another page of posts.sorry.fred, when you feel them pick it up have you tried hitting them before they drop? you certainly would not want to use circles on those fish.i only try to use tubes when i want to use large flies. main reason is so i can have hook at yhe tail. if using 3's or smaller hook placement is not an issue. howevr i find large a large fly is prefered except on the deschutestype rivers. if i am coastal at all i use large shrimpy,squidey flies.i consder the seena to be an extension of coast.beau
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, a power blip took care of that great post. Hi Beau!

To shorten this up: during the summer/low water conditions yr round I'll pretty much stick to a dry line. Strong believer in using sinking leaders inserted in the leader rather than a sink tip.

Will 'weave' the line through the three middle fingers on the rod hand and feel the line tighten up when the fish picks up the fly. With actual sink tips my hook ratio appears to be far lower as I'm just not feeling the fish properly.

Even with stack mends, following the line with the rod, etc., just don't have the "same line feel" as with a dry line. Add to this the pic and spit of the winter fish and I'd guess I'm missing a substantial number of them.

Practice MORE practice. :devil:

Beau: PS to you and a Hi from Kathy and her husband. Joan and I met them at the JPR wine even this past Thursday evening. Know Kathy quite will from the river and where she works in Ashland.

For the rest of you: Kathy's one mean lady with a Spey Rod in her hand. Only Lady Speyer I've ever seen down here in 'lower Oregon.' She can chuck line with the best of us.
fae
 

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I've gotten away from the Daiichi X point and gone back to the TMC 105. Both size 4's. I think the TMC is plenty strong enough and I think I like the action that a lighter hook provides. I have not tried any of the others.

Fred, the last time I fished with Kathy and Pete was 22 years ago at Neah Bay. I was 12 years old and was seasick as a dog. Pete got me into a 29 lb. King though. Great trip. They've been family friends for years.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Wow, first Beau and now Dave!

Both wonderful folks, and obviously well known!
fae
 
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