tube flies where you lose only the hook
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Use a small, light wire hook and heavy enough tippet. Hang up and the hook straightens out rather than having it break off. I find that 10 lb. FC is enough to straighten the hooks I use. Also, design the fly so that it is stable riding hook point up and we'll snag up less.
Sample of a fly that will ride correctly with the hook point up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GctL09uSjnk
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Instead of running the line through junction tubing (I do not use it) I just use a extra small slip float stop (Raven silicone oval ones) and use this on the line ahead of the hook. You can adjust where you want the hook to sit in regards to the fly and if you break off you get your fly back as once the hook snaps off the float stop doesn't allow the fly to fall off the end of the line. I never run lighter than 10lb line when swinging.
A bead and a figure 8 knot...
Presuming your tube fly has a liner tube, tie a bead on after you tie the fly on: run the tippet through the liner tube and a wee glass bead just large enough to NOT go back through the liner and small enough to fit into the junction tube. Tie your fly on, whatever knot you use, trim it and then tie a figure 8 knot in front of it and below the bead. You can roll the figure 8 knot right down to your tippet knot before you tighten it. So the plan is that when you break off the hook, the bead and figure 8 save your tube.
Presuming your tube fly has a liner tube, tie a bead on after you tie the fly on: run the tippet through the liner tube and a wee glass bead just large enough to NOT go back through the liner and small enough to fit into the junction tube. Tie your fly on, whatever knot you use, trim it and then tie a figure 8 knot in front of it and below the bead. You can roll the figure 8 knot right down to your tippet knot before you tighten it. So the plan is that when you break off the hook, the bead and figure 8 save your tube.
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There are some pretty ingenious methods being shared here! I connect the hook with a loop than tie a jam knot which catches in the tube. I tie on pro tubes so I have a built in junction tube. I'm 50% on getting my tube back however I have had a problem with the jam knot getting lodged so deep in a tube that I couldn't get it out......... I got the tube fly back but it couldn't be used.
I believe the type knot you use is the key to retaining the tube in the event of a break.
I believe the type knot you use is the key to retaining the tube in the event of a break.
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Just keep a bodkin in your vest, Ard. Clip the line and push the knot out.
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I have some 1/8 tube on my site that comes with an inner liner. Similar to Ards idea, the knot jams into the fly,and the hook is swing free, but this stuff will bend back time and again. Here is the rig.
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that is about right about 50% of the time the line will break at the loop and you get your tube back. I think the other times the entire head of the fly maybe under rocks so nothing will come back ever if that is the case.
By the way welcome a board! I also am from Wisconsin so if you ever want to head out and swing some flies drop me a line.
that is about right about 50% of the time the line will break at the loop and you get your tube back. I think the other times the entire head of the fly maybe under rocks so nothing will come back ever if that is the case.
By the way welcome a board! I also am from Wisconsin so if you ever want to head out and swing some flies drop me a line.
Tube flys
Ray Schmidt offered a suggestion on his site when he owned a fly shop in Michigan. He runs the main line (4 lbs. heavier than the tippet) through the tube and ties it to a very small barrel swivel. That swivel go into the junction tube. To the other end of the swivel he ties the hook using a very short tippet as in 2 to 3 inches.
If the hook breaks off the swivel remains and allows for another hook to be attached. No loss of the tube fly. Hope that helps as another option to the other good ones.
Ray Schmidt offered a suggestion on his site when he owned a fly shop in Michigan. He runs the main line (4 lbs. heavier than the tippet) through the tube and ties it to a very small barrel swivel. That swivel go into the junction tube. To the other end of the swivel he ties the hook using a very short tippet as in 2 to 3 inches.
If the hook breaks off the swivel remains and allows for another hook to be attached. No loss of the tube fly. Hope that helps as another option to the other good ones.
Save the tube
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions! Just one other question. What would be your choice for knots to use ,for the loop or joining a very small piece of mono with a knot on both ends that's just 2 inches long. Is the figure 8 knot with the bead stronger than my fly knot? Again thank you!! slack
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions! Just one other question. What would be your choice for knots to use ,for the loop or joining a very small piece of mono with a knot on both ends that's just 2 inches long. Is the figure 8 knot with the bead stronger than my fly knot? Again thank you!! slack
The figure 8 knot...
Two questions, two answers. Not sure what the first is asking...sorry. As far as the second, yes. I have found the figure 8 knot slightly stronger than the basic clinch knot, which is the plan. And I have found the basic clinch strong enough for a tippet (fly) knot. I tend to go heavy on the tippet for river run fish here in B.C. But do test your own... one fellow I know used a single overhand knot (a granny) and lost everything each time. I mentioned to him that he was tying in his own wind knots...the light went on. Cheers, Buff.
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