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So far this year I have had 4 nice Atlantics lost due to fluorocarbon failure .One was huge and the leader snapped in the middle NOT at the knot ,GRRRRRRH .I initially thought it might have been to old stock but the problem continued with fresh material - Maxima and Yozuri . Discussing with a friend this A.M. and he had 2 fish lost
due to tippet failure .Both of us have since gone back to Maxima Green and Chameleon
 

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I feel your pain, I have lost a few fish as well with fluorocarbon in the past and switched back to maxima.
I believe my issues were with knots slipping.
I was going to give it another try but maybe I shouldn't.
 

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When I use flouro I go heavier than I would with Maxima as a tippet as in 8 lb maxima I would use 12lb flouro
Never had any issues
 
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Was tight line nymphing in Michigan for a few days over the 4th. I was using a clinch knot on both ends of the tippet with Cortland flouro...everytime I snagged wood the knot would break at the tippet ring,never the fly. Like 8 times in a row. When I went to a double surgeons knot at the ring,it never broke again. That was a puzzler.
 

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CF Burkheimer, Olson, Teno, Danielsson, Guideline, Rio, Nextcast.
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Seaguar material has true diameter. Maxima is 20% thicker than advertised. This is key to they success.

For example 20 lb Seguar Red to STS Salmon 20 lb is 0.016" ( 0.40 mm) . 12 lb Maxima is 0.0155 " ( 0.39mm) and 15 lb Maxima is 0.0165" ( 0.41mm).

It is like claiming that a given track has better fuel efficiency as it can drive 500 miles on single tank, not mentioning that the tank has 20% larger capacity than other tracks .......
 

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I like to have my core Fluoro leader finished at the front with small non-slip Krefty loop which is one of the best knot for fluorocarbon. Then I connect tippet via loop to loop connection.
 

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My fishing partner this week was reiterating to be sure to use quadruple surgeons knots rather than triple on the leader extensions and tippet. This was for pretty light stuff, 4/5/6 x, so maybe not the issue here. But it sounded like he found out the hard way a few times. Something to investigate at any rate. Most people know to lubricate before pulling anything slowly tight so probably not the issue, but if you didn’t that would be a smoking gun.

Also, a little too much heat can permanently weaken some leader materials - something I was thinking about when nearly every surface in a boat I was in this week was at times too hot to touch! I got some regular prescription meds mailed to me last week in a little styrofoam ice chest thing for the first time. I first thought “oh, how funny, the idiots confused my simple stuff for someone else’s insulin, or something”, but then I did a double take wondering about heat waves etc. Maybe the tippet got fubared during “normal” handling before you even bought it.
 

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Seguar STS or Red from 8 lb to 40 lb can be purchased on Amazon at around $ 15-30 per 100 or 200 m.
In the end, Seguar started FC fishing line and has most experience with manufacturing. I do not touch other brands.

I strongly suspect..... that Rio is redistributing Seguar and selling smaller, 27 m spools for as much as 100 or 200 m spool cost. Imagine how little they pay buying in bulk 10,000 m spools........
 

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Something to keep in mind, fluro fractures and doesn't fray. Once the hard coating has a Fracture the line is very easy to break.
This year i lost a steelhead to a direct break off (first one in 2-3 years). The fish was no more then 6 pounds and it was well after the take in like sub 100 c.f.s, so inertia from speed+ current didn't help it.... 99.9% i had nicked the rock with the line before hand and didn't know (like a hidden wind knot)

My anecdotal or personal experience with fluro has been good. I fish 100% skagit (this year i finally took up scandi) and use short 3-4 foot leaders made 10-15 lb fluro for steelhead and 15 - 25 for salmon (note i use 1 inch of 40 pound mono to protect the sink tip loop and the rest)... As we know the Draw back is The thicker the line, the less ''action'' the fly has. (for readers learning learning action is different from material movement, its the fly's movment. LIke a hard plastic plug has lots of action but no material movement)
I Always make sure my lines are drenched with fluid when the knot is seated/tightened. You can fracture the fluro with friction otherwise. This is the most common mistake.. I use Double surgeons to the loop to loop and non slip mono loop to the fly. I also use a classic clinch once in blue moon, if im looking for specific keel/drop or performence from the fly near shelfs and slots.

Sounds like bad luck. I mean if we consider that literally millions of fish get taken every year on fluro and many tens of thousands (if you include all species) on spey....
Many of the great lakes float and nymph fisherman catch beasts (bows,browns,lakers,brooks,chinook,coho etc etc) on fluro as low as 2 pound test. While they aren't quite like there pacific brothers. A wild born great lakes chinook,coho or steelhead still has some insane power. Ive had chinny peel off 300-400 feet in open water like nothing. The captian thought we had a 10 000 dollar tournament fish but it was just a mega fit 20 pounder.

Still i feel its correct to change back for a bit to at least fix your confidence. This usually ''fixes'' things with placebo effect. Going up by 4 to 6 pounds, switching makers etc can do the same

oh and many companies lines have a very different breaking strength. One can 4 pound test and yet break at 5.6. people have lot tippet/line class records for this reason. Getting a consistent standard is hard after a switch.
 

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i use flouro quite a bit . uni knots line to line , san diego jam knot to rings , swivels or fly . no failures . and i use big spools of regular flouro fishing line , like berkley vanish .
thanks , jim
 

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Much good advise, so the only thing I can add

1. I draw in the knot slowly in my mouth.
2. I do use Rio Hard, Maxima and Seaquar Blue for my leaders. When I buy the spool, it is dated, so I am not using old material. I buy my new material in the spring and never on material specific sale.
3. Explanation of materials and a table listing the rating to measured diameter ( using my tools (micrometer, venier) that I use for making trout rods)

 

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" I buy my new material in the spring and never on material specific sale."

FC line is made from polyvinylidene difluoride. This polymer is extremely resistant to UV, oxygen and will maintain its strength, unlike nylon, for many, many years.

The only time FC line can be bad, if there was a problem during manufacturing and you get a bad batch, which is very, very unlikely with Seguar.
 

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" I buy my new material in the spring and never on material specific sale."

FC line is made from polyvinylidene difluoride. This polymer is extremely resistant to UV, oxygen and will maintain its strength, unlike nylon, for many, many years.

The only time FC line can be bad, if there was a problem during manufacturing and you get a bad batch, which is very, very unlikely with Seguar.
Irideous,

I am glad you said that, because you are re-affirming my experience and experiments, but I do not have enough to make any such open recommendation. The material I have found to be more "unstable" is the RIO fine nylon, and finer 8lb or smaller Maxima Chameleon.

On the Chameleon, I will not bother with 6 or finer any more, and I remain open minded on the 8 and 10. If I can fish with Maxima 12 on the tippet, I will. But with so many choices and so little time, it is hard to really be objective in an opinion.
 

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So far this year I have had 4 nice Atlantics lost due to fluorocarbon failure .One was huge and the leader snapped in the middle NOT at the knot ,GRRRRRRH .I initially thought it might have been to old stock but the problem continued with fresh material - Maxima and Yozuri . Discussing with a friend this A.M. and he had 2 fish lost
due to tippet failure .Both of us have since gone back to Maxima Green and Chameleon
Ouch. I feel your pain, but also have found FC to be far more resistance to abrasion than both Maxima Chameleon and Mason Hard type nylon. Might not be that important in rivers/streams for salmon steelhead but definitely anywhere near reefs.
J-Line FC is a good one though. Maybe better than Seaguar.
 
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