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Friend of Wild Fish
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tippet length on sinking head

Can someone tell me what is the length of your tippet on your T-11-17 sinking tips. How many sections etc.
Thanks in advance
 

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length

Stew
I see no one has responded so here is something that works for fishing for steelhead.

You'll have your backing on the reel, then the running line (say 100'), then the head (with T material you'll likely use a Skagit and then as you say for the sink tip using T 14 or 17 (or T8 and T11 for that matter) you'll add about a 4' tippet of something like Ultra Green Maxima then the fly.

The fish end of the T sink tip should have a loop for loop to loop connection to the tippet.



Maybe.......someone might suggest that a 1 foot section of say 30lb be on the fisherman end of tippet than another 3 feet of your chosen say 12lb tippet. This sometimes helps the loop on the fish end of the sink tip last better. Maybe that's what you are meaning in your question.

The strength of the 4' section is most of the time 12lb or 15lb. Some folks might use 10lb but by and large at least in my experience Steelhead are not leader shy. So 4' of Maxima!

We don't all use the same tippets etc but this works Stew.

Caveat: I have been telling my fishing buddies lately that I have discovered I am getting a lot better at BS ing about steelhead than hooking them.....oh well.........


Good luck
Loren
 

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JD
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Just noticed the title of this thread being "tippet length on sinking head. I only fish sink tips. Having found Steelhead not to be leader shy on a sunken fly, for me, it's all about turn over. I strip about one inch of the T-14 material off the business end of my home built MOW tips, & attach about 2' of 25lb fluorocarbon via an Albright knot for a permanent butt section. Tie a perfection loop on the end of the butt section & loop to loop your tippet section to that. For me the tippet will be about 2 to 3ft of 12lb fluorocarbon.
For lighter MOW tips, you might want to drop the butt section down to a little less than that of the core material.
 

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1 1/2 feet of 25 lb. test attached to the T-x sinking tip with an albright knot and lightly glued with a flexible cyanoacrylate glue. 2 to 4 feet of tippet, typically 15 lb.

The fish are not leader or sink-tip shy so 6 inches of nylon should be enough. The additional feet of tippet creates a shock absorber for large, fast moving fish and can provide for a better presentation, example light tube flies that ride higher in the water than the sink-tip.

Have fished T-17 and T-20 in the past but stick to T-14 and T-11 these days. I suspect (but don't really know) that the larger diameter of the T-17 material slows the rate of descent so it does not sink much faster than T-14 if at all.


Contrary to JDJones, I do not bother to strip the material off the T-x tip or the albright knot though I would love to hear why that is a good idea.
 

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I go with a short, less than 6” chunk of 30lb maxima looped to the sinktip, and ending in a loop. This keeps my smaller tippet from digging in to the sink tip loop. To this I go no more than 3 ft of 12lb maxima. I fish it down to 1 foot. From my understanding, at some point to long a leader on your sinktip will have your fly riding higher than your tip, unless you’ve got some weight on your fly, than maybe not.
 

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I recycle old mid sections of tapered trout leaders for a butt section about a foot long and attached to my sinking heaf (tip) via improved nail knot (roughly .020 tapering down to .013) to 3' of 10-12# maxima. 20# butt works fine also, butt I like to recycle....
 

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I have welded loops on all my sink tips, so I prefer to protect them as best I can.
Therefore I use a 12" section of either 25lb or 30lb Maxima mono. It's looped on both sides and I add a 2ft to 3ft section of tippet. The tippet is dependent on fly size. Smaller flies usually get 8lb tippet and bigger flies can get 12lb tippet.
When using high density tips and unweighted flies, keep your leader/tippet length to a minimum, no more than 4ft. The longer the tippet, the greater the chances of your fly fishing higher than your tip. It's redundant using a high density tip while attaching a long leader.

Along with leader length, you should consider flies that sink and stay sunk. There is more to designing a sunk fly than adding weight.


Mike
 

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I usually tie surgeons loops in the ends of a 12-15" piece of 25 or 30 pound mono and loop that to the end of my sink tip to help prevent the leader from digging into the coating and then add 2 or 3 feet of 15 pound Maxima or 16 pound Rio Salmon/Steelhead tippet material. If it's getting to be pretty clear, and it's in the 40s or warmer, I'll occasionally use some 0x fluorocarbon, but it's probably not really necessary.
 

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Simple and short for most flies

A general recommendation is to use shorter leaders with sink tips or full sinking lines, because in most cases the tip sinks faster than the fly. If the fly you are fishing is weighted sufficiently to sink faster than the tip, you can effectively use longer leaders if you want to get as deep as possible, as long as 15'.

As a fan of neutrally buoyant flies I usually start the morning with 5' of Maxima tied directly to the sink tip. When the leader gets shorter due to changing flies, say 2', I add enough to get back to 4-5'. Always use a four (quadruple) turn surgeon's knot to tie leader/tippet material, as it is 5% stronger than a three turn knot, according to the knot gurus at RIO Products. Using this knot ended my leader/tippet breakage with hot BC fish.

The majority of BC anglers use 15# Maxima for steelhead, which is OK until you try to break off a fish, like a salmon, or free yourself from a snag. A prominent Kispiox guide I fished with uses only 12# Maxima.
 

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I don't have any experience whatsoever with leaders/tippet on two handed rods, but I have tons of experience with long, heavy sink tips and heavy flies on a single-hander. I use a foot of 30# Maxima chameleon on the butt of a leader not to protect the sink tip, but to help turn over a heavy fly. Is the loop from a spey rod so different that a heavy fly turns over gracefully on a level line?
 

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I don't have any experience whatsoever with leaders/tippet on two handed rods, but I have tons of experience with long, heavy sink tips and heavy flies on a single-hander. I use a foot of 30# Maxima chameleon on the butt of a leader not to protect the sink tip, but to help turn over a heavy fly. Is the loop from a spey rod so different that a heavy fly turns over gracefully on a level line?
With the mass of the head and sink tip turning over a few feet of level mono is easy and never graceful but it gets the job done. When fishing a skagit head it's more about getting in the zone rather than a delicate presentation.

Dan
 

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I'm not a fan of knots or lots of loops in leaders!.If casting of the individual involved isn't good, loop to loop just invite tangles, like wise a nicely welded and looped T tip or indeed 15ft multi tip type of tip can be wrecked by mono and most certainly fluro. loops over time by the tippet material( it'll eventually cut into the T material !).
A short heavy level butt section(or tapered too if the individual desire's!) will take all the hammer and wear n tear of fishing with heavy T tips etc. but most importantly help turn over the leader and the flee every time.
Were this me, I'd have a short level piece of heavy mono needle knotted or permanently fixed and then sealed with Knot Sense, Zap a Gap or similar to the business end of the tips in question, the end of this short heavy butt piece of nylon would have a knotted and sealed 3mm leader ring in place, to that I'd attach my tippet of choice on the day.
Nice n neat, very tidy and little to attract debris that can foul up complicated knotted and looped leaders.
It's all nowt of a job either, one for the fireside on a long winter night.
I always say, a little thought and effort will re-pay handsomely in the long run!.
Yorkie.
 

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1' 30lb maxima double surgeons loop on both ends. This is not to sink faster but to protect the loop to loop connection on your T material so it does not wear with leader changes. After the 1' maxima use 2' 15lb maxima attached to the 1' section via a loop to loop with another double surgeons loop. Using longer than 3' counteracts the tip you are using, so keep them short.
 

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JD
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T-14 Albright knot

The purpose being..... what exactly?
Before I hit on the technique of stripping the coating off the end of T-14, I simply attached a mono butt section via an Albright knot, doubled over with the coating still on. The resulting Albright knot, encompassing two diameters of T-14 plus two diameters of 25lb flouro/mono was huge & unsightly. I cut it off & started over. Stripping the coating off the last inch of the T-14 and tying on the doubled over mono core, resulted in the same knot reduced to little more than the diameter of the coated T-14 itself. If you have the patience & work carefully, you can tie that knot snug against the edge of the coating, pull it super tight, trim the ends, & have a very smooth transition.
 

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Now I'm confused. I've been saltwater fishing for years with a single hand rod, using Spey running lines to long (20') sections of T18 and T20, to a 4-6 foot leader, to a really heavy fly with extra-large dumbell eyes, and I have never damaged the loops on the end of the sink tips, regardless of having to do roll casts just to dredge the flies up to the surface to cast, and regardless of how fast/hard I have to cast the rig to get the fly out 40 feet.

Is there something about Spey casting that's harder on the sink tip?
 

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Now I'm confused. I've been saltwater fishing for years with a single hand rod, using Spey running lines to long (20') sections of T18 and T20, to a 4-6 foot leader, to a really heavy fly with extra-large dumbell eyes, and I have never damaged the loops on the end of the sink tips, regardless of having to do roll casts just to dredge the flies up to the surface to cast, and regardless of how fast/hard I have to cast the rig to get the fly out 40 feet.

Is there something about Spey casting that's harder on the sink tip?
I don't have any experience whatsoever with leaders/tippet on two handed rods, but I have tons of experience with long, heavy sink tips and heavy flies on a single-hander. I use a foot of 30# Maxima chameleon on the butt of a leader not to protect the sink tip, but to help turn over a heavy fly. Is the loop from a spey rod so different that a heavy fly turns over gracefully on a level line?
Spey casting - is not more or less graceful - just more efficient at distance - at change in direction - and in situations were there may not be room for an over-head back cast.

I think that a smaller knot tied at the core will sink better - when the objective is to get down deep quickly in moving water - and may be reason enough to remove the coating? Also, when swinging a fly deep in streams/rivers the fly is bound to hang up... better, quicker to replace a hook that's been straightened-out or a fresh leader/tippet/fly than to re-rig the sink tip too because the coating stripped off by reefing on the line...
 

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The thirty pound section i use is to prevent a hinge at the loop-loop connection, not to protect the sink tip. Before I was shown that trick, when I'd cast without that short, stiff section, I had no idea what the fly was doing on the back cast and it could get downrght dangerous.

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with how others are setting up their tip-leader connection, I was simply curious about whether it was to protect the loop on the sink tip or to prevent hinging at that point. Thank you for explaining. Now I see the sense in it.
 
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