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In principle Cotol ( sold for tinning auaseal ) is a mixture of toluene and trace of tin base catalyst to accelerate curing ( polymerization process of urethane monomer).

Chlorinated solvents like chloroform can do it, but is not particularly healthy for you ( a potent carcinogen).

Let me test ethyl acetate and see it it mix well, and I'll let you know.

In general, I dilute aquaseal with pure toluene and keep the diluted aquaseal in hermetic glass jar ( when not used) in freezer.

Otherwise, over the time the glue will absorb some moisture and start harden. It is the water/moisture which, in absence of tin catalyst, initiate curing process.
 

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?

Couldn't you add a few drops of Denatured Alcohol to thin Aqua Seal which will end up evaporating and allow the product to do its thing?

BB~
 

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I've been using tolulene to cut the Aquaseal for quite a while now and it seem to do the job just fine. For the most part I am using this to cover loops in the fly line and being thinned out does a nice job.

Hope this helps.

Greenbut
 

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Couldn't you add a few drops of Denatured Alcohol to thin Aqua Seal which will end up evaporating and allow the product to do its thing?


No, it is not only about tinning but also how solvent will affect polymerization ( curing).

Alcohol will react with monomer ( isocyanate), but resulting cured glue won'y be as strong as when cured with catalyst or water( moisture present in the air).
 

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I use tea...

I do, seriously. I thin the Aquaseal to work with it resealing the feet on my waders. The chap at the dive shop told me to make a cup of tea with boiling water and pop the tube of Aquaseal in it. When the tea is cool enough to drink, the Aquaseal warms up and flows very easily. Is this the result you are after? Workable goo?
 

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Tinning Aqaseal allows easy use and better penetration.
The original question was however substation to toluene and some solvents are better then others.

Stay with toluene.
 
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