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VIRTUTIS.GLORIA.MERCES
All things Cane and old clicker reels ......
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Here is my 2 cents on the topic …….personally, I recommend the hockey tape and use it on my rods. I would second some of Wayne’s comments as well. Truthfully, the electrical tape will work, but there is a bit too much stretch in it for my liking. This is the brand I use, and it seems to leave very little residue. I get mine off of Amazon. As far as cleaning the residue off of the splices …… both Bruce and Mike have great suggestions, as I will do both with my rods. One other comment, like Richard H. Mentioned ….. I will also leave some of my rods taped up during the season, and have not found the hockey tape to lose any of its holding properties. Dave
Fluid Ingredient Liquid Gas Cylinder
 

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Here is my 2 cents on the topic …….personally, I recommend the hockey tape and use it on my rods. I would second some of Wayne’s comments as well. Truthfully, the electrical tape will work, but there is a bit too much stretch in it for my liking. This is the brand I use, and it seems to leave very little residue. I get mine off of Amazon. As far as cleaning the residue off of the splices …… both Bruce and Mike have great suggestions, as I will do both with my rods. One other comment, like Richard H. Mentioned ….. I will also leave some of my rods taped up during the season, and have not found the hockey tape to lose any of its holding properties. Dave View attachment 388325
Dave- are you still using Bob’s wrapping method (overlap spirals up and spiral back down with no overlap)? I read somewhere that no overlap is preferred, but that may be in regards to older Sharpes cane rods.
 

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VIRTUTIS.GLORIA.MERCES
All things Cane and old clicker reels ......
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Dave- are you still using Bob’s wrapping method (overlap spirals up and spiral back down with no overlap)? I read somewhere that no overlap is preferred, but that may be in regards to older Sharpes cane rods.
Hi John ........ that is the way that I do it. Both Bob and James Reid have great videos out on this technique for those to view. Dave
 

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Canadian duct tape eh? I used to use this stuff to tape my broken stick back together when I was a kid when a "Sherwood" was actually made out of wood. Worked pretty well. Not like these plastic wands they use today. Hey that kind of sounds familiar. Anyone think there's a market for split cane hockey sticks? I bet if you got Mr. McDavid to endorse them they would take off. That guy could score with anything you put in his hands!
 

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Hardy,Sharpes, Saracione ,Zwarg ,Carron.
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I've found over the years that 3M hockey tape has been the best consistently. The Renfrew just seems to be getting crappier over time...and lately it leaves a ton of crud on the rod.
 

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Is it twisting or displacement along the axis that make the stretch an issue with those ferrules?

The going back over again seems like a lot of tape! There is one way of taping that is really old school, where people put one or two pieces lengthwise, and stretched a bit, and then do overlapping spiral wraps over that. The first pieces tend to especially lock the rod along the axis for ferrules where that is the main worry. That one is really insanely solid, but seems like a lot of work.

The electrical tape also comes in a thicker version, not amalgam tape but just heavier, though I never tried it. Presumably it has a greater elastic constant as well. But it feels like the bits that stick to BOTH the upper and lower parts at the same time are what most prevent the tendency to twist that seemingly usually starts the trouble on graphite rods, and for that it still seems like the bottom layer being overlapping spirals is best.

When applying the 33+ I’m always stretching it hard - AS I’m wrapping in overlapping spirals. Always. In other words I’m applying it actively stretched. If I didn’t do this enough then %100 I would not feel it to be a good job, and I would start over. So just in case anyone is missing that part that is one thing on the checklist to take note of. Not saying that is a full answer to the elasticity for some types of ferrules, but IMHO if you aren’t actively stretching it as you apply it then for that type of tape you are probably not doing it right. That is what I meant above by the elasticity being an attractive feature of that tape.

But yes, if the tape is going to be bearing a major proportion of the load, and not merely there to prevent the initial displacements then you may want LESS stretch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
after i wrote my second post , i went down to the shop and worked on removing the crud . i used , in no particular order , googone , dawn and water , low heat from the hair dryer , ice and a fingernail brush , as well as my handy dish scraper and my fingernails . all i can say is , if i had a choice between hugging a porcupine and doing that , i'd have to think over a spell . over an hour on 1 rod and still plenty to do . and i have 2 more that will need to be done ! 😢 i think that i can attribute my problem to , 1. poor tape , 2. leaving them taped up all summer and then taping over the residue when i went out the other day . what a total PITA . i will def need to change my m.o. if i want to keep the rods in regular rotation , which i do .
it's all about doing and learning , eh ?
many thanks everyone .
 

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Try some lighter fuel on a Q Tip as a test, then let it flow in very limited amounts to dissolve the residue, Jim, it will not hurt the bamboo.

I've been doing this for the last couple of years now when needed. Zippo fluid, and hasn't affected the rods in any way.
 
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Track down the finest bronze wool that you can find. A little goes a long way. Make a pad about 1” diameter, add a few drops of Goof-Off. Polish towards the tip of the splice. Neither the bronze wool nor the Goof-Off will harm an impregnated rod. You should be able to clean the tape residue in a few minutes and the splices will look pristine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
more great insight . i was hoping brent would weigh in . i will be seeking some bronze wool , i have the goof -off . i will also grab some better tape .
thanks so much for the many great answers ! now , can any of you tell me how to make a million dollars without doing any work ? ;)
thanks , jim
 

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more great insight . i was hoping brent would weigh in . i will be seeking some bronze wool , i have the goof -off . i will also grab some better tape .
thanks so much for the many great answers ! now , can any of you tell me how to make a million dollars without doing any work ? ;)
thanks , jim
I'm working on a step by step plan. Once I've fully tested it and it pays off I'll let you know. Might be a while.
 

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Wayne has it right ...
I've been taping my Scotties with Refrew clear tape. It stops stretching and keeps everything tight. 3M also makes this tape.
This tape is annealing tape, or also known as amalgamating tape. It is extremely durable, weather resistant and not temperature sensitive. It is in fact electrical tape and used on high voltage splices and stress cones.
Stay away from the vinyl tape (electrical) for bamboo splices, it continues to stretch and will fail on the splices.

To remove the residue, use dish soap and rinse with water. I would only trust my thumb nail for additional scraping against the blank.
Typically, when taping splices only for a day, the residue is very minimal with this tape.


Mike
Mike,
I thought amalgamating tape was the type of tape which stuck to itself, and has no adhesive?
I met up with a friend to fish, and stupidly left my Renfrew at home. My friend uses amalgamating tape to tape his graphite ferrules. You basically break off a small piece and stretch it (it's very stretchy and a small piece like about an inch goes a long way) till it stops giving and start wrapping it over itself. As there's no glue, there's no residue on the blank, though it is a job to remove it as it's all stuck to itself and has to be really cut off rather than peeled off.
I was a bit concerned that it wouldn't give the support required for the splices, but I used bigger pieces to stretch it up and back and it held up for the session. As it was the lighter, shorter 6wt I don't think it mattered too much, but perhaps a longer, heavier rod I would have been more concerned.
I always take the Renfrew off at the end of each day, even on a multi-day trip.
In the UK there's another brand Scapa which I tried to get but they only sold in bulk. A person who I know from another forum used to use it on his Scotties but he has recently moved back to soaked leather thongs as they originally did and he says it's better than hockey tape!
 

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Well, the amalgamating tape my HV splicing crews use has adhesive, never used the stuff without. It's made by 3M.
I think annealing tape might be the stuff without adhesive ... ??
Looks and feels exactly like the Renfrew tape I buy at Canadian Tire sports department ... it is called "Hockey Tape" on the sign in front of the bin. I never used the stuff when I played hockey ...
I bought a stick of 7 rolls for $8.45 (y)(y)


Mike
 

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after i wrote my second post , i went down to the shop and worked on removing the crud . i used , in no particular order , googone , dawn and water , low heat from the hair dryer , ice and a fingernail brush , as well as my handy dish scraper and my fingernails . all i can say is , if i had a choice between hugging a porcupine and doing that , i'd have to think over a spell . over an hour on 1 rod and still plenty to do . and i have 2 more that will need to be done ! 😢 i think that i can attribute my problem to , 1. poor tape , 2. leaving them taped up all summer and then taping over the residue when i went out the other day . what a total PITA . i will def need to change my m.o. if i want to keep the rods in regular rotation , which i do .
it's all about doing and learning , eh ?
many thanks everyone .
This does seem a bit pathological … for almost ANY tape. Leaving the stuff on for a long time, having it dehydrate, and possibly having the material and sticky stuff chemicals baked and altered by UV light probably doesn’t help. But it seems like maybe the actual surface finish, even if you get it visually very clean, might have some issues in those areas now - a mono-layer of stuff still there from many previous tapings, or maybe the tape itself has messed with the surface of the finish to cause it to bind differently.

If something like that is the case, you might try a thin layer of something that preps the surface and maybe smooths the microstructure there. Just a suggestion, but a few drops of car wax, or whatever is recommended for those rods, on the area with the trouble. Let it dry according to instructions, the wipe off very well. A LITTLE of such wax may prep the surface in such a way that tape still sticks really well, but maybe it will stop the chosen tape from getting so up close and personal with the chemistry of the finish itself. Again just an idea, but an easy one to test out.
 
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