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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey now ,
i've been fishing/practicing with my scottie spliced rods a fair bit lately . i love using them and they are great casting machines . however , the taping of them has vexed me a bit . i left them taped up on a rack for the summer and the tape has left a sticky residue on the splices which is proving difficult to remove . additionally , at the end of a day's fishing the tape wants to stay stuck and comes off in bits and pieces . quite frustrating . i have been using " hockey tape " which i purchased at the hockey store , no brand name that i see on the roll .
i'm hoping for some guidance from all ya'all . i can't see me wanting to mess with this at the end of fishing on a cold , wet winter's day .
thanks , jim
 

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Which type of “hockey tape” did you use? Is it the sock tape (kind of clear and feels more like plastic) or is it the stick tape (solid colour and feels more like fabric). I think it’s the sock tape you want as the stick tape will definitely leave more residue. I’m thinking any kind of tape will leave a residue if left that long though.
 

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If only you were from Canada we could crack a joke about Hockey tape being the Canadian duct tape. I suppose that you had a local “hockey store” could be considered almost enough. :)

This is the stuff to use - scotch super 33 plus vinyl plastic electrical tape. It’s very cheap, tends to be universally available, but is easily ordered. Any residue is minor and easily wiped off with just a rag. I’ve only used it on the finish on graphite rods, so your mileage may vary. It always comes off easily and in one piece provided you actually are pulling at the end. If it is dark and you start pulling in the middle, as with any tape, then you will make a mess that will need to be sorted out under full lighting. I wish I could claim this discovery myself, but it has been handed down by The Ancestors.

As far as my experience goes the 33+ is absolutely perfect. Other tapes might work just as well. But it is important to understand that you should not use just ANY tape - they are all formulated for different things and use different chemicals. Anything like athletic tape should be IMHO specifically avoided. My extensive experience with taping joints strongly indicates it was designed to NOT come off of (at least itself) at all easily, and I usually had to cut it off like a cast. But if you use the above tape you will be fine on all finishes I have experience with, and comes off itself easily. The slight stretchiness also is good for wrapping ferrules as well, and unless it has been on for weeks usually comes off with zero residue.

Only one thing I can think of as a caveat: ANY tape is going to tend to remove over time things like the cheap surface applied alignment dots (which are half the time not aligned correctly anyway) on inexpensively made rods like ECHOs and the like. That is not a problem of the tape, but a FEATURE of those rods. The 33+ tape never harms the actual finish, or anything underneath the finish.

As for the stuff left over from the previous tape, you might try some “goof off” or “goobegone” or another punny residue removal product - before you use one exercise due diligence to make sure it will not harm anything underneath.
 

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Well said, and eletrical tape does not come off in water. It will even stick on damp surfaces. I tape all my ferrules and have desperately been looking for transparent electrical tape (no luck) so it looks better on my Meisers.... But I guess black will have to do...
 

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I find
Well said, and eletrical tape does not come off in water. It will even stick on damp surfaces. I tape all my ferrules and have desperately been looking for transparent electrical tape (no luck) so it looks better on my Meisers.... But I guess black will have to do...
I find the black looks pretty stealthy on my Meisers. But there is a legitimate practical argument for choosing a light, contrasting ugly color as that is much easier, especially in low light and with cold hands, to take the tape off at the end of the day. Usually by then you will care much more about getting it off with no fuss than the looks! :)

I have definitely cursed the black stuff a few times trying to find the right edge to pull with half-numb hands and fogged up glasses.
 

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Guys he’s asking about spliced bamboo ferrules of which either electrical tape or hockey skate tape works well remove residue with goo b gone. Taping graphite is a whole other discussion of which I prefer no tape as when taped you have no idea what’s going on with your ferrules 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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Yes, I read his initial post. Tape is tape, and the residue problem will be fixed with the electrical tape which plays nice with most finishes, leaves no residue and does not come off in pieces - YMMV. But speak for yourself about taping - I always know exactly what is going on with my ferrules - I just look. Speaking from actual experience mine almost never come loose or twist - at all. If you find that they do you may be doing it incorrectly. If done correctly they will NEVER come apart enough to have a ferrule blowup, and if they do twist a little you can fix it when you see it. I disagree with the argument that using tape suddenly forces you to start to behaving stupidly.
 

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Gaelforce
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Yes, I read his initial post. Tape is tape, and the residue problem will be fixed with the electrical tape which plays nice with most finishes, leaves no residue and does not come off in pieces - YMMV. But speak for yourself about taping - I always know exactly what is going on with my ferrules - I just look. Speaking from actual experience mine almost never come loose or twist - at all. If you find that they do you may be doing it incorrectly. If done correctly they will NEVER come apart enough to have a ferrule blowup, and if they do twist a little you can fix it when you see it. I disagree with the argument that using tape suddenly forces you to start to behaving stupidly.
Must be your X-ray vision 😏
Anyways getting back to the original question, electrical tape will leave more residue on boo than the hockey tape and either can be hard to get off if you don’t plan ahead and leave a tag end to work with at the end of the wrap.
 

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Scotch 33 electrical tape is better on the residue situation. Clear electrical tape is a thing of the past, haven't seen it for maybe 8-9 years... Unless it gets remarketed some day its gone.

Tape on splice joints on a bamboo spey rod undergoes more stress than the tape used to hold a graphite ferruled rod with seated together ferrules and from separating. In my opinion tapes vary quite a bit... in thickness, strength and the amount they stretch.

The problem with electrical tapes is that they tend to stretch too much, and they can keep stretching after application. That might be Ok for single hand spiced ferrule rods and holding the assembled ferrules together on a graphite spey rod but I do not think that electrical tape stretchy tendency is a good thing on the bamboo double handers we all like here.

The Refrew sock hockey tape stretches to a point then almost stops stretching so when you tape up spliced ferruled bamboo spey rods with it ... you stretch the tape while wrapping... you stretch it to the point it starts to stop stretching then maintain that tension and wrap. I over lap the wraps by about 50%, one pass. After wrapping; then I rub/pack down the taped ferrule with my hands/fingers (not sure this provides anything additional to the integrity, but thats what I do). With the Refrew sock hockey tape and this method; it creates an incredibly strong splice ferrule assembly .... no movement in the splice, no slippage, no creep ... no nothing. I use this Renfrew tape and method for my rods. When the Refrew sock hockey tape became known as "the" tape to use on spliced ferrule spey rods ... that to me that was a game changer.

Both the sock hockey tape and electrical tape can leave residue depending on the weather, sun exposure, temps, how long the rod was left taped up. Both can be a pain in the a$$ to remove. In the cold and or in the dark doesn't help of course. One tip I have is to slack off on the tape tension for the last half of the last wrap; then cut it with scissors... seems to make it easier to start the tape unwrap/rod disassembly. Of course always unwrap in the exactly opposite sequence you wrapped in.

I thought I read somewhere that Sharpes advocated taping splices on their rods in open, non overlapping spirals - maybe someone can confirm. If this is true that tells me they may have designed their rods to have a little bit of slip in the splices on purpose.

Last tip, use the tape brand/type and any tape up methodology that is recommended by the bamboo spey rod maker on your rod.
 

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Gaelforce
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I think we need to hear from Mr. Reid on this. He would definitely know what is best. Rob
I was advised against electrical tape and use the hockey tape by mr Reid
 

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James recommended the clear hockey tape for wraps, and goo gone for residue removal.

This additional comment is my own, so don’t blame it on anyone. I’ve noticed tape's adhesive seems to gain strength over time. As unorganized as I am, if I’m fishing multiple days in a row, I’ll unwrap and retape every couple days, just to freshen the tape, replace the adhesive. I’d never want to leave it more than three or four. Much harder to remove, and a lot more residue.
 

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Wayne has it right ...
I've been taping my Scotties with Refrew clear tape. It stops stretching and keeps everything tight. 3M also makes this tape.
This tape is annealing tape, or also known as amalgamating tape. It is extremely durable, weather resistant and not temperature sensitive. It is in fact electrical tape and used on high voltage splices and stress cones.
Stay away from the vinyl tape (electrical) for bamboo splices, it continues to stretch and will fail on the splices.

To remove the residue, use dish soap and rinse with water. I would only trust my thumb nail for additional scraping against the blank.
Typically, when taping splices only for a day, the residue is very minimal with this tape.


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i knew i could count on you folks to help me out . so... i am using renfrew tape . and yes , you wrap the tape with overlaps to start and then graduate to open spirals as you progress up the splice , then overlaps to finish up . this the correct way for a sharpes rod . i do leave a tag at the end , but the tape just broke off as i tried to remove it . it was impossible to wrap the wet splices when " upstate steve " and i went out the other day . gotta be dry . i think a big part of my problem may be the residue left from leaving them taped all summer . i have a bottle of goo gone that i played around with yesterday . that works to remove the residue if i let it sit on there for a bit . i used a plastic dish scraper , same thing i use to pack the whippings on a guide .
i will spend some time today cleaning it up and start from zero again . the tape performs admirably in terms of keeping the rod tight throughout the day while fishing . i loooove casting and fishing the scotties . i only acquired them at the end of last sh season , so no fish on yet , i can't wait ! ( i'll have to though , eh ? ) ;)
thanks again everyone .
 

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I've been using a different brand of clear hockey tape and have had no issues with residue so far. It seems to come of clean for the most part. Recently had this conversation with jstroke. He was complaining of the residue from refrew tape. He figured it was just an old roll.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I've been using a different brand of clear hockey tape and have had no issues with residue so far. It seems to come of clean for the most part. Recently had this conversation with jstroke. He was complaining of the residue from refrew tape. He figured it was just an old roll.
what brand is that ? if i may ask ?
 
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