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tape, wax, both or nothing?

  • tape

    Votes: 279 26.8%
  • wax

    Votes: 254 24.4%
  • both

    Votes: 164 15.8%
  • nothing

    Votes: 343 33.0%

  • Total voters
    1,040
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Both

I keep some wax on my ferrules, but count on tape (2 strips on opposite sides, with spiral wrap down-and-back).
 

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chrome-magnon man
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Discussion Starter #3
hmmmm....

I have a feeling this morphed into "do you wax, tape, both or nothing" rather than "of the rods you've busted, how many were waxed, taped, both or nothing." My fault...I said to indicate your preference, which changed things right there. Hey, I was sleepy...

still, cool data. Keep the info coming! Looks like "taping" and "both" are neck-and-neck!
 

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I have a theory, mostly unsupported except for a bit of personal experience, that rod size/line weight and possibly belly length have quite a bit of bearing on this issue. For example, on a Sage 5120 with 5/6 Windcutter ( admittedly a very light spey setup) I fished all summer with only wax on the ferrules and had no twisting or loosening. There just isn't that much torque there.

In comparison, using my Loop 9140 with a Delta Long 9/10 and super fast sink leader and mostly Snake Rolling to keep the leader up, the ferrules will definitely start to twist when only waxed and taping as well seems to be necessary.

On a Loop 7116, using a Midspey 6/7, waxing seems to be fine, no sign of movement. With a Windcutter 7/8/9, which loads the rod a bit more, waxing alone still seems to be fine, but this is a short rod with relatively large and tight ferrules and a short belly line. But when I tried it with the Accelerator upgrade on the 7/8/9 WC I had some twisting.

Comments?

JimC
 

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Double layer of tape

Falkus ,who taught me insisted on taping ,or making the rods into one peice rods . He had a huge rod box outside his fishing hut on tne Tarn where he instructed and ran all over with the one peice rods on his rod racks ,he wasnt a slow driver .:smokin:
 

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Intresting question

Wax has been my choice for many years when only I will be casting the rod. If I am setting a rod up for others to cast, tape is a must. A new caster probably has enough to think about without worrying about ferrules. At a clave everyone uses the rod, a good reason to tape.

Wax: I have broken rods when only waxed is used. I constantly watch for twisting at the ferrules, which indicates loosening . If I put my rod together in the cold, the ferrules will loosten as the temperature rises and the wax softens. If my rod is warm when I put it together and the rod cools, I often have to use heat to soften the wax in order to break it down. (Another good reason to keep a thermos of coffee handy) Often the heat from my hand is enough.

Tape: I have broken rods when I tape the ferrules. Thats high modulus graphite for you, but I could never go back to glass.

I'm sure I don't need to mention what a loose ferrule will do. It has ruined my day.
 

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Jack Cook
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I aree with Marlow

When I am fishing I only wax. The reason is I want to SEE what is going on at the joints. I cannot tell you how many times I have been handed a taped rod and found a loose joint on the first cast. The trick is not to think that taping means you do not have to pay attention to the joints.

As we know a loosening joint will cause a big time failure.

Whether you wax, tape, both, or nothing.... always watch for rotation at the joint. Rotation is the first clue of a joint coming apart.
 

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I wax very lightly and use (electrical) tape
 

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Survey

If we are out fishing for a lengthy period we usually tape them ferrules, but on a short trip nothing. Just tighten them up between runs. Wax for me equals dust and dirt problem.
Leroy AKA Speyrd
 

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Burt's Bees Wax Hand Salve

Someone in the past posted about this product.

On my trip on the Lower Rogue and Chetco last week, I bought a small tin @$2.58 to try it.

The wind was howling on the Lower Rogue. I used the Burt's Was on my 7141 with Rio's new Grand Spey 7/8 floater with a 15' furled leader.

Even my terrible Snake Rolls with a few Double Speys with a lot of line out had little effect re movement. About once an hour, I would check the alignment and adjust if necessary. Any movement was minor.

At the end of the day, it took a little gripping and holding for me to break down the rod. A quick wipe of the male end removed any left over.

One day on the Chetco, I was fishing for cuts with Bob Meiser's new 5/6 rod two handed switch rod with a floating WC 5/6. I had never used anything with Bob's rods. This rod is a new and different graphite. I started getting some ferrule movement. So I put some Burt's Bees wax on the male ferrules, and that stopped that. I was surprised at the end of fishing of how tight the ferrules were after several nice Cut's were caught and released.

Burt's Bee Wax is easier to use than my wife's candles, and I don't get yelled at. Nor did yellow jackets or bees try to make a home with my rod after I used Burt's Wax as they have after using my wife's bee wax candles. The size is about the size of a silver dollar in diameter and about 1/3 of an inch diameter. So it now goes into the pocket of my waders incase I need to re apply it. Burt's Bee Wax may be the cheapest and best Spey investment we can make. If you don't like it on your rods, use it on your hands.
 

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I have fished spey rods for about 5-6yrs now and in the beginning I waxed. I think this is because I tended to use too much muscle.

In the last few years I have used nothing but twisting the pieces together about a quarter turn. This works great and just checking before starting a new run.
 

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I tape religiously, it has become so ingrained that I feel great trepidation casting without first taping. That said, I do believe, as was previously mentioned that it has much to do with the length of belly and types of casts used.

I cut my teeth casting long rods and long belly lines and still use them whenever they are suitable. The set-up that I fished when I first became half-way good at casting was an 18' Bruce and Walker and customized Accellerator (I added 30' to the belly :eek:). With this length of line and inertia weight of the long rod created twisting issues that no wax could deal with!

This torque issue was magnified when I developed the snake-roll as my go to cast. The twisting involved often defeated even tape! I took the advice of my Swedish friend Per Stadigh and modified my taping by running 2 lengths of tape along the blank, then spiralling the tape up and back - this is the system I still use - and it is great.

I also have Vac Racs to carry the rods when moving around (which we do at freeway speeds!) so breaking them down is not an issue.

I now fish Skagit style for winter and spring, short belly lines and shorter lighter rods. I use "Edgit Casts" (Ed Ward style sustained load) the Skagit Double and the Perry Poke. These casts and lines do not create the torque and stresses that the long belly snake-rolls do, therefore, I am certain that a tape job is not really necessary. However, as they say "a leopard cannot change its spots" so I still tape - as I get apprehensive when I do not and worry about the ferrules rather than fishing.
 

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U-40

ferrul lube and tape for me.
 

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Like so many others, I tape without fail on double handers, with two strips down either side of the join followed by a spiral under tension from top section to lower section. Funny how so many of us use electrical tape instead of a tape manufactured for the purpose. Dont even know if there is such a thing as Spey rod tape.
Mike
 

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Clydesider said:
....Funny how so many of us use electrical tape instead of a tape manufactured for the purpose. Dont even know if there is such a thing as Spey rod tape.
Mike
That'd just be electrical tape that's marked-up 30%....

A few winters ago, about 3/4s of the way through one of those I'm-in-the-zone swings I noticed the top (untaped) ferrule of my rod was loose. I slowly pulled my arm back to try and reach the ferrule... and, yeah, whammo! a 13 lb hen hit my fly. I had to get my partner to come over and twist the tip back on while I played the hen who was dime bright and causing all sorts of trouble at the end of my line.

I still don't tape. I do wax though.

daniel
 

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Wax and Nothing

I wax, but not often enough, so nothing comes into play. Speybum taught me to use candle wax as it has, ( oil ? ), in it which serves better than other waxes without. More importantly is how you put the ferrels together. Roughly 90o out of alignment, jam the ferrels as tight as you deem appropriate then make that 90o twist into alignment.
 

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tape

I'm a relatively new speycaster, and not good at it, but because I mostly speyfish in the surf and along the ledges for stripers, I tape -- I fear use of wax would introduce sand/grit to the ferrules and cause more damage than its worth. My other use of the spey is on the middle Kennebec for the stripers as they move upstream following the baitfish. Even taping, I have noticed some torque movement of the ferrules, and will try taping in both directions next season.
I am surprised at the percentage who do nothing more than push the sections together.
Joe
 
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