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On my light switches, a Scandi Short or Switchline. I used the Orvis Hydro 3D switchline, and liked that. I have Scandis from Rio and SGS. Slap on a tapered leader or clear polyleader, and tippet. Done.
 

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Grain range.

All two handers have a 'grain range' from 'x to y' that the design will allow for casting. You want 'delicate' you go for the bottom end, chucking hunky flies you go for the top.
 

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Good call Esa, good call.

Most lines are WF lines but there are some DT lines and very rare level lines too.

A floating Scandi taper is very good dry line because it has long front taper which lands softly. Good for OH and Spey single and double hand casts.

Esa
Finding a DT 2hander line here in 'The States' is darned near impossible. When I want one, which I do at the moment, I go looking at UK web sites. Ahhh, must finish up winding on my new 8/9 Carron line. These things are pure magic when it comes to casting.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
David1123

Has anyone ever tried the new SA Adapt Switch line with dry flies, or is it just a carbon copy of the Ambush line. I know you can use the Ambush for dry fly fishing, I just don't know how delicate is.
 

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The Ambush is as delicate as you can make it. I've heard it described as being "Skagitty" because it does have a very fast turn-over. But - It is intended for casting in tight-tight spots, not necessarily as a distance-shooting taper and a long leader will help to mellow it down some.

The Adapt switch-line is the same length in each weight-class. I thought it was a multi-tip line at first wondering where the "Adapt"ation comes into play. It is intended for short rods while the Ambush is intended for single handers up to 6 weights and adapts well to two-handers in the heavier/longer lengths.
 

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It makes a difference if you are skating dries or doing the dead drift thing. If you are skating a scandi head orr something like the rage works great. For dead drifting you will be stripping in a lot of line or feeding line into your drift a lot so an integrated head is the way to go so those loop to loop connections aren't going through your line guides all the time. When I have dead drifted dries with a switch I have used a longer head line like a switch line or a single hand WF line so mending is easier with the longer rear taper instead of thin running line.
 
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