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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Has anyone every tried using short sections of surgical rubber tubing for ferrules instead of tape?

I was considering getting different diameter of surgical rubber tubing (couple of inches or so long for each section of rod), pull them over each of the male sections of the ferrules and roll the tubing back over itself.

When assembling the rod insert the next rod section and then roll the surgical section forward over the female ferrule.

Theory being it should be really tight, remain on rod ready for use any time and do the same job as well, if not better, than electrical tape.(Hate picking and sticking tape off my rod)

However, I figured it might be wise to ask this venerable forum of Spey rodders in case my idea is an old one and I am about to busily set about re-inventing the wheel, or perhaps, the flat tire.

Screaming reels,
Scouter
 

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Here we go again!
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I recall a fellow who last year wrote an article about this that is on the River Run Anglers website (www.speyshop.com). He posted here with photos, so if you use the search engine you should be able to find it (try entering "latex tubing" into the search window). I don't recall him coming back with his findings over the past year or so of using this stuff though.
 

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JD
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I tried this

It does work. However, I found it to be more of a pain than tape if you have to dis-assemble & re-assemble very often.
 

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Subject was discussed on this board over two years ago, decided to give it a try on two of my rods and it has worked fine for over 150 days on one and a 100 days on the other. The rod with the 100 days was exposed to sunlight when not in use and the rubber deteriorate and fell apart the other still works great. Once in a while the section will twist a bit but have not had asection loosen up to the point that I had to reseat it. Black seems to be more resistant to sunlight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Surgical rubber

Hi,
Thanks for the info and leads. Much appreciated.

( I noted Tayside's '150 days' on one rod and '100 days' on another rod by the way! I wonder what he does in his spare time? (Grin)

My problem is largely self inflicted and is somewhat like the Cdn. Army refers to as a 'SIW' (Self inflicted wound).

I seldom come out of the water until it is nearly too dark to see what I am doing at which time I am in desperate need of a bladder break and my hands are too cold to pick and pluck at electrical tape.

All I want to at that particular place in time is to break down my rod, stow it safely away, get my wadders off (Or at least down!) and then get the truck motor started, the heater going and head for the nearest coffee.

Common sense would dictate coming out of the water sooner but then what would anyone with common sense being doing standing up to their waist in the salt chuck, chucking line, hooks and feathers at fish in the first place?

Again, thanks for the input. Seems like there may be a wee business here for some enterprising type to sell matched latex tubing sections for different rod diameters and weights on Ebay. I would be on of their first customers for sure.

Thanks again and screaming reels,
Scouter
 

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Glad this idea has come up; never seen/heard of using tubing before. Around here only two sizes readily come to mind; both for gear guys attaching pencil lead.

Any idea how many sizes this stuff comes in?
Fred
 

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Junkyard Spey
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Around here only two sizes readily come to mind; both for gear guys attaching pencil lead.
Fred your local drug store will be able to supply all the sizes you need.
 

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JD
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Surgical tubing

I found this stuff at G.I. Joes. Bought a foot of several different sizes, & tried it on the CND Soltace. (spigot ferrules) First off just getting this stuff on the butt section was tough. Could be that a larger diameter was needed. But that was as large as I could get. The other two sections were not that bad to install. I cut each section of tubing about 3 to 4 inches long. Long enough so that it would roll down onto the blank proper. Not just the ferrule.

I store my rods horizonally on pegs in the garage. And I transport them in one piece bungie corded to the roof racks of my SUV. Take down was not an issue for concern. It was only about securing the ferrules against working loose. Which I felt the tubing did very well.

However, several months later when I had to break down the rod, it was very difficult to roll back those long sections of tubing. I think I cut some of them with scissors. I also use candle wax on my ferrules. The butt section was particularly difficult to get apart. I tried letting the rod set out in the sun, as well as packing the ferrule in ice. It was only with the help of an extra pair of hands that I was able to get the sections apart.

All of this could have been due to several things. The fact that the rod had not been broken down for awhile, the wax. the combination of the length & diameter of the tubing, or the type of ferrule. Whatever. It held like gangbusters. I did not have to worry about tape coming loose like tape does. But it was a ***** to get apart.
 

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Scouter said:
Hi,

Has anyone every tried using short sections of surgical rubber tubing for ferrules instead of tape?

I was considering getting different diameter of surgical rubber tubing (couple of inches or so long for each section of rod), pull them over each of the male sections of the ferrules and roll the tubing back over itself.

When assembling the rod insert the next rod section and then roll the surgical section forward over the female ferrule.

Theory being it should be really tight, remain on rod ready for use any time and do the same job as well, if not better, than electrical tape.(Hate picking and sticking tape off my rod)

However, I figured it might be wise to ask this venerable forum of Spey rodders in case my idea is an old one and I am about to busily set about re-inventing the wheel, or perhaps, the flat tire.

Screaming reels,
Scouter


Hi, I use tape - but not the sticky electrical tape. The stuff I buy is known as "Vulcanising tape" - but it isn't strictly that as I'm told by electricians that one would usually use heat to make it adhere. This tape more or less welds itself onto the underlying laying, but no adhesion to the rod. To remove, one cannot unravel, but you need to roll up (bottom section) and roll down (top section) to remove. It has never failed me in the 15 years that I have used it.
I believe that 3M sell it, but it can be bought in slightly larger rolls that will literally last many years.

Regards
Steven
 
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