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Does anybody use SuperLube Oil & Grease to maintain their high-quality reels? I've been trying to find Quantum Hot Sauce but it seems to be unavailable anywhere and seeking a solid alternative.
 

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William Olson turned me on to Boca Bearings high speed oil. And I use Daiwa blue grease since I can't get hot sauce anymore. I've never tried superlube. Someone told me Quantum's (Zebco) factory that made hot sauce burned down but I don't know how true it is. I think if you clean and lube your reels often then just about any of the top lubes should be ok. Penn, Daiwa, Reel butter, Phil Woods (bicycle grease) ect. Rob
 

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Super Lube should work fine. My old tube says it has teflon. I think it's synthetic and is like a thin grease. I'm also a shooter so have a collection of firearms lubes (gun people are lube fanatics). So Shooters Choice red grease, Rig stainless, Slip 2000 30 wt and FP-1 all cross over to reel use covering thick grease to water thin oil applications. I really think you could use Mobil 1 10W/30 that goes in your cars crankcase and never spend a dime on some designer lube. Regular maintenance is the key.
 

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High temperature lithium marine grease used for boat trailer bering is exposed too much harsher conditions the any fly reel, and is an excellent water repellant.

I hope you got the message.
 

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lithium grease is great for steel bearings but over on the classic fly rod forum there's been an in-depth discussion on lubricants. A lot of folks won't use lithium grease on their high end reels claiming the lithium will attack aluminum. I'm no expert but I'd choose to error on the side of caution.
 

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lithium grease is great for steel bearings but over on the classic fly rod forum there's been an in-depth discussion on lubricants. A lot of folks won't use lithium grease on their high end reels claiming the lithium will attack aluminum. I'm no expert but I'd choose to error on the side of caution.
a) it is lithium salt not lithium metal which is added to lithium grease as a thickener ........
b) these salt are either lithium soap ( lithium salt of Stearic acid) or salt of bis-carboxylic acid and they do not react with aluminum
c) for example sodium salt of Stearic acid is what your use to wash your hands (soap)
d) pH of lithium salts mildly basic , water in trout streams is also mildly basic

If you are still afraid , use Yamaha marine grease which has aluminum complex additives.

The ultimate grease is Krytox GPL 207 Grease, which is polyfluorinated earthen mixed with lower molecular weight PTFE ( the same properties as teflon) and has VERY significantly lower wash-out then any other hydrocarbon grease

These materials are compleatly non-toxic and unlike hydrocarbon grease won't be washed out into water. Only b/c it contain fluorine atom , it does not mean it is dangerous. Vinyl chloride monomer itself is toxic !!!!!!!. When polymerized produces PVC used as a coating on fly lines ..........

Krytox is far more stable and exceptionally resistant to harsh environment including very strong cid and bases then any other existing grease. It is not use everywhere due to coast and a small quantities like 0.5 to 2 oz acost in $ 20-30 range

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Kry...ds=krytox+207&qid=1558877361&s=gateway&sr=8-3



Nothing will beat Krytox

Super Lube is simple hydrocarbon grease with small amount of PTFE. The issue is fluorinated materials are not soluble in hydrocarbons, and consequently there is grease/oil separation.
Anyone who use SuperLube has noticed it.

In Krytox, PTFE ( pure PTFE is solid) is perfectly soluble is oil ( polyfluorinated either) and consequently there is no oil/solid separation.

It is well known that in some classic reels with Van Hoffe open drag often trace of hydrocarbon lubricant gets washed to Derlin shoe/stainless drum and reel can hydroplane when wet.

Pure PTFE grease wan't be washed out at all. Many times had large fresh fish on my Teno 4" ( fresh Skeena Steel or an accidental Chinock) and the reel never hydroplaned !!!!
 

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Like I said I'm no expert. So you can use what ever you like. If you like lithium grease then use it . But the experts claim that lithium grease will break down over time and leave a residue of lithium hydroxide that is damaging to aluminum. Like I said, I'll error on the side of caution.
 

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"But the experts claim that lithium grease will break down over time and leave a residue of lithium hydroxide "

this grease contains NO LiOH ( Lithium hydroxide) :

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_12-hydroxystearate

Who are those experts who claim that lithium hydroxide is the same as salt lithium salt of carboxylic acids ?? ( day and night when comes to reactivity with aluminum metal ) .

Lithium hydroxide is well soluble in water, while lithium salt of long chains carboxylic acid not so much........ Consequently, adding lithium hydroxide to grease which purpose is to repeal water would be POINTLESS !!!!!

I have yet to see any corrosion over the last 11 years on aluminum in my reels ??


BTW, they are different grades of aluminum alloys ( all of them containing predominantly aluminum metal ) use for various applications with various chemical resistance......


Alkalinity ( as measure by pH) of water exposed to lithium salt of carboxylic acid ( like lithium salt in lithium grease) is the same or slightly lower than a typical productive trout stream..........!!!!!!!
 

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Maybe I'm not following you here. In your link to Lithium 12-hydroxystearate under the heading "Production" it clearly states that lithium hydroxide is added in production....?
 

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In order to make salt of any acid and base, ( in this case Lithium 12-hydroxystearate) you mix one equivalent of base ( in this case lithium hydroxide) per one equivalent of carboxylic group present in the acid. The final product is a different chemical than LiOH.

LiOH + RCO2H = RCO2Li + H20

To make sure there is no lithium hydroxide and small excess of fatty acid is added, which can be washed with out from lithium salt with non-polar solvent like hexane. BTW, a very small excess of fatty acid is OK, as it acts like a lubricant.


Here we talk about most rudimentary chemistry.

Similarly, a soap we used every day is made from sodium hydroxide and stearic acid. As long as the right ratio is maintain during synthesis, there is no excess of sodium hydroxide, otherwise our skin would be peeling off........

The only way lithium hydroxide is present in lithium grease, if manufacturer of the grease has purchased very poor quality Lithium 12-hydroxystearate, where chemical corp. sold them out of spec material and grease manufacturer was careless not performing a simple analysis of Lithium 12-hydroxystearate it received.

BTW, "I broke my teeth' in the filed or organic/organometallic/polymer chemistry( DESIGN AND SYNTHESIS) for various material applications in energy, display, fuel cells etc., so I really do not try to mislead you.
 

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I am not the chemist, but in my having to select and recommend lithium grease for other commercial and industrial products, the issues I have had is quality of product and fillers in the grease.
 

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For ball bearing in Yamaha outboard jet unit I use Lubriplate 630-AA. This is what Outboardjets ( inventor and manufacturer of jet units for Yamaha, Honda etc. recommends).

For trailer I use Lucas High temp marine and no issues here, although I replace it every season.
 

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I’m sure most of these that are mentioned are great. I personally go with DuPont lithium grease spray. Hard to beat a true lithium grease, and the fact that you can just spray it in so it goes into every nook & crannie is cool
 

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Just for the record: DuPont lithium grease spray is not much different then DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver Dry Self-Cleaning Lubricant. Both contain fine articles of PTFE ( Teflon, less then 1 micron some ) , some hydrocarbon solvents ( lower boiling point evaporate and higher bp stays). In lithium grease , lithium salts act as a filler and in both cases the most important component is Teflon which is an excellent lubricant.

In open Aluminum reels the most critical is to inspect the reel inside time to time. In my Olson 4", which is used heavily, I open it every 10-14 fishing days, to make sure a grease covers well teeth wheel, clicker and spring for rust protection and lubrication..

In case of Teno 4" with Van Hoffe drag ( stainless steel drum and Derlin shoes) I use Pure Teflon grease ( Krytox is the ultimate grease) made of fully fluorinates carbon chain. Not b/c this grease is resistant to an extreme conditions, including strong acid and hydroxide ( aluminum reel in these conditions would simple dissolve !!!). It is used in aerospace and chemical industry etc. .

As I hinted, at normal reels operation conditions Krytox washout is ZERO, sticks very well to any metal surface, it is the ultimate water repellant, so no way a trace of grease can be transfer from gear to the drag and cause hydroplaning effect. Even if trace of grease is deliberately applied on the drag, there is no hydroplaning effect, only drag tension at any setting is reduced by about 20%, but drag resistance is still proportional to spring tension and overall drag is smooth like a butter.

The multiplier ( 2:1 ratio) gear is made of a very hard aluminum bronze alloy, which is rust proof and commonly used in a low speed ball bearing package !!!!!
 

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It depends what is meant by 'high quality reels' I suppose.

I use (non dyed) synthetic oil and grease designed for reels; easy to obtain and (as Hardy used to recommend) I oil all moving parts prior to each fishing trip, a small ritual I enjoy. Non 'waxing' over time and non toxic, so it's claimed, also being important.

My reels do not find their way into the water and none will find it's way in, neither do they touch the ground and I admit to treating them with great care. Non synthetic oils and greases may well dissolve lead finish on vintage quality reels, like Hardy Perfects, where the lacquer top coat has worn (which will be most of them) and does not do much good to the inside of the plastic handle.

In some ways I want a lubricant to not 'hang about' too long in a reel, as the regular replenishment tends to avoid the build up of wear particles or micro- debris. In any case, only a small amount is required on a regular basis.

Malcolm
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks, everyone. Bill Archuleta was kind enough to provide his recommendation via email: Lubriplate "white grease" (part L0034-086).
 
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