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chrome-magnon man
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When choosing reels for your two-handers, what influences your decisions? Design? Capacity? Age? Aesthetics? "The Cool Factor"?

I've been lucky to have had the opportuntiy to test many reels, but seem to always return to classic designs. My first Spey reel was a Hardy Marquis Salmon #3, a great warhorse of a reel that gets little use today though I keep it for sentimental reasons. My most used reels are my 4-1/4 Perfect and 4 Uniqua, though my LOOP Classics will see a lot of water time this season. For me aesthetics and a connection to the past are important considerations.
 

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I look at capacity and design but mostly I Look for the biggest bang for the buck, not nessarily the cheapest but just the toughest. I am allways attracted to the cool factor but I never seem to buy those types of reels. I really like the old school reels but I just havent spent the money yet. Some day a perfect will find a home with me but not any time soon.
Mike
 

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reels

1) Capacity
2) Looks/cool factor/connection to past
3) Performance
4) Weight
5) Cost

Therefore....I own a pre-war 4" Perfect and would like to also get a Vom Hofe/Saracione/Bodgan style reel...
 

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#1: Reliability/Cost ratio #2: Capacity

Dana said:
When choosing reels for your two-handers, what influences your decisions? Design? Capacity? Age? Aesthetics? "The Cool Factor"?

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With the bigger rods 8/9 +, large Reel Capacity is a must. Which is why I love my Loop 4W and wished that they would make this model again. My Skagit 650 is on one spool and Canon 9/10 Floater is on the other spool.

With the mid size rods, capacity is still a concern and my Loop 3W works well with the Skagit 450. My Orvis BK Large Arbor with the Skagit 550 is maxed out with maybe 100 yards of backing. The BK Large Arbor is a great reel when you catch a fish re its retrieve and drag; however the lack of line holding capacity will stop me from ordering another one.

I'm now using Rio's OB WF Floating lines with my Sage 5120 and 6126 and Meiser 5/6 Switch rods. The Redington CD 9/10 is a perfect reel for these lines and lighter rods. It costs about 140 $ and holds over a 100 Yards of backing which is more than adequate for trout, bass, shad and half pounders.
Many of the guides and good fishers on the Delta are using this reel because of its reliability, cost and ability to handle good size stripers. Dan Blanton likes this reel, and I have yet to buy anything that Dan approves that isn't a great buy. I own two CD 9/10's. I may buy one more, so I can have one for each rod. Then I can rig up all 3 of these rods for various fishing conditions, hatches or whatever.

My Scot ancestors's DNA re money management eliminates any desire for expensive reels which cost as much or more than a rod. I had rather have a good reel at a lower price and more lines and spools than one expensive reel and one line. So I invest my fishing money into Rods, Lines and reliable/economical reels.

#1: Reliability/Cost ratio
#2: Capacity
 

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#&%*@^# Caster
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A sealed drag for the salt so the reels can serve double duty.

Only a few reels fit the bill right now. Loop/Danielsson, Sage D series and the Nautilus. I want reels that required NO maintenance and I only have to clean maybe once a year or less.

These three provide that while other so called seal reels out there do not. I have had them all and the above three are the only ones that do it.

-sean
 

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Capacity is an issue but it doesn't limit my choices much. For me it is personality and sound. To my eye, some reels have personality and others don't. And I don't care how nice the reel, if it doesn't make a noise that I can hear when I'm standing in the gurgling current, it is worthless to me. While I would also love a Zwarg or a Vom Hoffe, I will make do for now with my Perfects, my Mohlin and the Loop Classics.
 

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Junkyard Spey
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For me it is personality and sound. To my eye, some reels have personality and others don't. And I don't care how nice the reel, if it doesn't make a noise that I can hear when I'm standing in the gurgling current, it is worthless to me.

Well said Mr. Tip.:smokin:
 

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Dana,
What is a Spey reel? Can you only use it for Spey Casting? Or just on the River Spey?
 

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On the otherhand surely a Skagit reel is a smaller version of a Spey Reel what ever a Spey reel is.
 

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...now I am confused - the Skagit is bigger than the Spey, so why is the Spey reel bigger than the Skagit reel? And if the Spey has been spey-fished longer than the Skagit, must the Spey reels then be older than the Skagit reels :confused: ... Wait :tsk_tsk: Willie this poses another puzzler... what the hell is a double-handed reel then? Is it like those big game things that are harnessed to you - and then you reel with both hands?

Yikes! I'm getting more perplexed by the minute :Eyecrazy: - you Brits have been doing this Spey thingy far longer than we Colonials - so please set us straight :hihi:
 

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Spey Reel

For me, a reliable, bombproof drag is the most important factor. If it doesn't give line when it needs to and put on the brakes when necessary, you might as well wrap your line around a tomato can fastened to the reel seat. I lucked into an Orvis Vortex 11/12 on closeout that was being sold at 66% off. I would have never paid full boat retail, ($695) for it, but I was sure glad that I had it last year on the Bulkley.
I am also sold on Ross reels. The drag systems on their Canyon Big Game reels are worth the money when a Steelhead runs. I wish that they had been making the 7 or 8 when I bought my 5 which is too small for a spey reel, but does the trick on my 8 weight single hander.
I also have a Waterworks ULA 4 which is pretty good, but lacks the stopping power of the other two reels when it comes to drag. It is light and has tremendous spool capacity, but,that cone drag is just not quite right for me.
Just two cents worth from an old gear junkie.
 

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I would suggest a " Spey" reel has design and ellegance, whilst a Skagit reel is brick shaped.

In Scotland things are easy big reels 3 3/4" upwards are salmon reels, have been for centuaries and always will be.
 

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Performance
Cool factor
Value (though this has changed in meaning when it serves me to buy the reel I want)
"Portability" which is related to value. I got a Danielsson LW 8-12 for my MKS 678. I figured I could use the same reel for an 8/9 switch rod I'm eyeing or use it on my single handed 8 wt to replace the uber heavy Billy Pate reel on there now.
 

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Thanks Malcolm, that helps... now what happens if I want to fish for steelhead :confused:

As for what is important to me... I guess I am a bit shallow, but the cool factor is pretty big . However, what constitutes cool can vary for me. While I really like my Evotecs (subdued noise and all) I guess I tend to gravitate to my Hardys (I'm not sure if they are cool or traditional - probably both). My 4 1/4" Perfect is just too cool - 1932 vintage - howling drag and all, my Bougle Mark V - very classy and my Marquis 8/9 and 3 5/8" Perfect for big trout can't be beat. Yet, I am really jacked about hearing a screamer on one of my new Loop Classics - they look cool and have a gnarly sound!

Maybe I just like reels... and have a few too many of them :eek:
 

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Kush -- put the keyboard down and back away! We have covered this before, there is no such thing as too many reels.
 

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Hey Kush,
I'm not sure what a double-handed reel is either. But I do have a couple of big Hardys (Salmon II and Salmon III) that are double-handled. Now that's cool.:smokin:
 

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kush said:
Thanks Malcolm, that helps... now what happens if I want to fish for steelhead :confused:

:

Kush,
Being just a simple Scottish fisherman and part time gillie, I would suggest you use a Steelhead reel.
 

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:smokin: :smokin: :smokin: :smokin: :smokin: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: - thanks Malcolm!
 
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