Have you checked out Dana's Spey Pages casting videos?
I don't know your location but John and Amy Hazel have a pretty good video out with good info on the Snap-T. It is called Introduction to Spey Casting. If you can't find it locally I can get you a copy. Take care, MJC
Ray, also check Eoin Fairgrieve's site - speycast dot co dot uk and go to 'online tuition'. He has an illustrated step-by-step description (and a video clip) of this and other casts.
Picking up the advice Malcolm gave on another board about getting instruction, I can heartily recommend Eoin for this. He's based in Kelso, so not a million miles from you if you're near the Tyne. He's also the UK agent for Loop, so would probably be able to give you a 'test drive' of their rods.
IMHO if you manage to single Spey well, I mean 90ft +, off both shoulders, with adequately double spey 70ft there will not be many places you cannot cover. Perry pokes snap t, c are just modifications, get the basics right and the rest is good for show.
The only other cast I practice is a snake roll but I again it had few advantages over a well preformed double spey.
Time to sign up for a spey pages newletter subscription!
To push back the clouds and give yourself not only a knowledge of the many speycasts, but also a working understanding of the mechanics involved, talk to Dana Sturn (speypages guy) about a subscription to his newsletter. It is extremely reasonably priced, and filled with oddles of practical knowledge on many forms of speycasts, as well as equipment, practicing aids, and all sorts of other goodies. I can not say enough as to the value of these articles, and the money helps to support the speypages site. Nuff said.
Get the Dec Hogan video. Prettiest snap T I've seen. Shows exactly how and why you want it to lay out the way he does it. I think his compact casting stroke is something to strive for on short to mid heads. Reason for the snap T over the double spey? On river left you can perform the snap T and throw the forward stroke off your right hand/shoulder. A definite advantage as it is much easier for the beginner than trying to learn to cast with your off hand or off the left shoulder for the right handed caster. IMHO. The perry poke? It's for Skagit casts, a whole different animal. I'm trying to understand the dynamics of it myself (Skagit casting, that is. Read Ed's posts, would like to see a video dedicated to it). At the very least it translates into more lines to buy and play with:devil:
This is by far and away my favorite cast. There are few situations where a snap c or a reverse snap c wont work. Yes I know some people belive that you should switch hands and put your off hand on top but I just hate to do that? The reverse is so easy with just a little practice. As for trying to get a video of it? I havent seen a good one yet but I also havent seen a lot of things yet! 20+lb steellhead, 40+lb king, 20+lb browns etc...........Best bet might be to find someone who already knows how to do this and have them work with you on this. Or hire an instructor for a couple hours?
The reverse snap t is my " go to " when I need some lenght.It is also the cast for one of my favorite runs[curving high cut bank at my back,river right , with a upstream wind]. It does not need as much room for the the so called D loop. moose is also right about the Dec Hogan tape. watched it last night.it shows that cast over and over and really breaks it down.Beau
The Snap T, Circle Spey, and C Spey all go through the same basic movements. The biggest difference is in how the line placement movement/step is conducted. For a righthanded caster fishing river left, the Snap T motion is similar to the upper two lines of the letter "Z". The Circle Spey and C Spey use a broader, more open and curved motion resembling a backwards letter "C".
I sometimes call these casts the Snapped Tip and Scary C because with a wind that is quartering upstream and into the caster's face, any miscalculation in timing or technique can result in the decapitation of the tip section of one's rod. I've personally witnessed this happen several times. Now, before anyone starts to think that I am bagging on this cast, let me say that it is a cast that I recommend quite often as it is easier to learn than the Perry Poke, but I always point out the fact that one must be careful and aware when faced with that particular wind situation.
The Snap T, Circle Spey, C Spey, Single Spey, and Perry Poke all fulfill the same purpose - upstream wind casts. Here is where I have seen them work best:
Snap T, Circle, and C - Short to mid length lines, floating, sinking, or sinktip, unweighted to moderately weighted flies.
Single Spey - Short to long belly lines, floating or full-length sinking, unweighted flies.
Perry Poke - Short (Skagit) lines, floating, sinktip, unweighted to heavily weighted flies.
If you are a beginner, then it is best to remove the Perry Poke from your list of casts to be considered as it is a specialized type of cast designed to be used with specialized lines.
Words of wisdom. Thank you! I'm coping and printing where to use the various casts with the various lines. A copy will go into the little pocket inside my Tilley hat with the data re lengths of my Spey line heads and sinking rates of the tips.
"Perry Poke - Short (Skagit) lines, floating, sinktip, unweighted to heavily weighted flies."
"If you are a beginner, then it is best to remove the Perry Poke from your list of casts to be considered as it is a specialized type of cast designed to be used with specialized lines."
I can tell you that the Perry Poke will not work with ARC 1409 with a GS 7/8 with any tip from floating to type 8 sinking tip in my in experienced hands. As poor Bob found out while trying to teach me on Rogue. Yet it worked quite well with his 5/6 Switch Rod and the WC 5/6 on a lake after I got home.
You can order the Hogan tape on the internet from amato publishing. I scrolled thru the new products section to find it. the title is Modern Spey Casting and more with Dec Hogan.
Perry poke-I will defer to RA on this one,but,I use it,thanks to his teaching it to me, when I have bank,or brush behind me.I use it with a standard WC or Delta much of the time.It works fine for me with that length line.I am sure I have also used it with a floating long Delta, also. Dont remember any difference!It may work better shorter head,but it works fine with the others.By the way, when I use it often it is just an extra step added to the snap T. so, it is actually added complexity.If I dont have a space problem, I dont see any reason to dump a perfectly great cast at time of final delivery and add a step.But, everyone needs to do what works best for them.my single speys get less practice time and are therefore more problematic when I first start using them.Usually ,a sloppy line up of the line when it touches down.I will often see the need to dump those back in the water [perry poke them] and pull and straighten the line as I form a new D Loop for a better final delivery.Remember, as far as I am concern, a Poke is just the extra step added to any other cast! It can come off a snap t, a double or single spey. Could it even be added to a half of a snake roll? Just thought of that . dont know! I will try it next chance.Turn a dynamic cast into half dynamic and half static!Of course that is a dowstream wind cast along with DS, which was not original idea on this thread.If you have a great DS you would only poke if you had a backdrop problem.RA has a great DS.I have a pretty dam good reverse anything , which is where some like to do the Poke. Before RA helped me with my right shoulder DS, I sometimes added a Poke to that one.Sorry about the Ramble!!Just thought that might help someone. Beau
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