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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
I have been watching Goran Andessons video on underhand casting, the rod I use for the spey casting is a Loop grey line, with a loop ouatro line ,with the four tips. I want to make a shooting head set up for this outfit,I have got the backing for the shooting head ,I have got a cortland 12 wt floater.Before I start to cut the line I would like some advice on what to do .If possible I want to use tips from my Loop line on the shooting head .
Thankyou Dave.
 
G

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Why not get the Loop adaptive head for that particular rod, then you will not have to bother fooling around. MaxG.
 

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JD
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A 12 wt floating head is 30 feet long and 380 grains. That's pretty light to start with. What weight is the rod?
 

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Double-handed Spey Freak
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I agree with MaxG.
I just got for my loop 13 ft greyline a adapted line kit with 4 lines,1 runnigline and some leaders. They are specialy made on the right lenght and weight for your rod. Great stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi maxg thanks for the advise ,I am triying to find a dealer in the uk who will stock one ,no luck yet .david
 

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JD
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Oops, back up here

garrydog said:
Hi JD JONES
the rod is a 10wt double hander ,the line that i have is a 12wt double taper floater .
I was under the impression you had a 12 wt shooting head. A 12 wt double taper line might have enough grains. Might,,,but I doubt it. I would suggest you log onto Rio's website. Dig around till you find Simon's line reccomendations (for your rod) and go from there. Whatever type line you choose, be it a Scando head, Skagit, or any other type line, it's gonna be heavy. Because of the style of casting, Spey vs. overhead, it takes a lot more grains to load a (Spey) rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
adapted lines

Hi all
I have managed to get two loop adapted lines from tacklebargins uk ,I have ordered the low float ,and the fast sink,without loops, what is the best way to put loops on to this type of fly line.Also will you please let me know what length of tips that you use on these line.
Thankyou all David.
 

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If you go to the Loop Site and click thro' products>lines>custom II>adjust nylon leader you will find some tips (sorry advice) there.

Adaptive heads are brilliant if you want "flexibility", however I belive in order to to take full advantage of GA's underhand casting style you need a number of "customised" heads, with different lengths to fit all (your) likely fishing situations - or more particular the amount of room available behind you to form the D loop and the angle you want to cast across stream. Hence Loops concept of the "custom" and "custom II" heads. To give you an idea of what I mean have a look at the head cutting table on the Loop site (products>custom II>cut custom line).

The recommended head lengths are to designed to optimise an underhand cast at 90 degress across the river with virtualy no back (cast/D Loop) room available, if you want to cast at more of an upstream angle (say 110 degs) then the head has to be shorter (but the same weight!). If you want to cast at 45 degs or so downstream then the heads can be longer. Expert u.hand casters also adjust the length of the leader (shorter head longer leader - if you use poly leaders you can also use this to compensate slightly less weight in the head)


Which kind of loops? - The master himself (GA) uses braided loops and adds a couple of nail knots a few centimetres apart as added security. I still splice my own.


Hope I've helped and not confused you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
BalticFlyFisher said:
If you go to the Loop Site and click thro' products>lines>custom II>adjust nylon leader you will find some tips (sorry advice) there.

Adaptive heads are brilliant if you want "flexibility", however I belive in order to to take full advantage of GA's underhand casting style you need a number of "customised" heads, with different lengths to fit all (your) likely fishing situations - or more particular the amount of room available behind you to form the D loop and the angle you want to cast across stream. Hence Loops concept of the "custom" and "custom II" heads. To give you an idea of what I mean have a look at the head cutting table on the Loop site (products>custom II>cut custom line).

The recommended head lengths are to designed to optimise an underhand cast at 90 degress across the river with virtualy no back (cast/D Loop) room available, if you want to cast at more of an upstream angle (say 110 degs) then the head has to be shorter (but the same weight!). If you want to cast at 45 degs or so downstream then the heads can be longer. Expert u.hand casters also adjust the length of the leader (shorter head longer leader - if you use poly leaders you can also use this to compensate slightly less weight in the head)


Which kind of loops? - The master himself (GA) uses braided loops and adds a couple of nail knots a few centimetres apart as added security. I still splice my own.


Hope I've helped and not confused you.
Hi
I have used shooting heads for salmon fishing a few years ago , but only with single hand rods and overhead casts ,starting with half of a double taper line,and cutting it to match the rod .but the adapted lines sound a bit more complex ,but i am sure i will pick it up as i go along. Thanks for the info on the loops, i have all of the stuff for making them .
Thanks David.
 

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shooting heads

Hi david.Ireally would consider sticking with a loop shooting head rather than cutting the cortland line.Istarted out cutting lines then bought a set of the loop adapted heads when they became available 7or 8years ago and could not believe how much easier they where to cast and use.I currently use the custom and custom 11 shooting heads which are brilliant -if you want ease of use and tight loops they are the way to go with the loop salmon leaders -how is the annan fishing this year I havent been well enough to make it up to fish this year? hope this is of help steve
 

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Garrydog,

It is really not so difficult to make your own shootinghead.
For a 15' #10-11 rod it should be approximately 10,60m to 12 meters long and the weight around 36-40 grams. Don't know the weight of the Cortland line, so I would cut it 14 meters long to start testing ( if you don't have the scale). If 14 m works fine, it is good for longer casts and nicer presentation. For tight places (and fast sink lines) it should be shorter.

Good luck.
 
G

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I use a 10/11 loop adaptive fast sink for my TalonGraphite Midgar 15' and it comes at 34' and 545gns with a 9 foot tip.
I also use a Loop intermediate head that is 54 feet long. MaxG.
 

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Loop Team Finland
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Maxg said:
I use a 10/11 loop adaptive fast sink for my TalonGraphite Midgar 15' and it comes at 34' and 545gns with a 9 foot tip.
I also use a Loop intermediate head that is 54 feet long. MaxG.
Have you made yourself this 54' long LOOP intermediatehead ? I think, that LOOP doesn't have so long intermediate shootingheads.
 
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