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Steve Godshall here in the Rogue River Valley.

Cuts/builds fly lines that are so specific they are made for a given rod/water/AND caster peculiarities. Don't ask me about that last bit, he already knows mine. :eek: At least two major custom rod builders (that I know of) come 'equipt' with his lines.

fae
 

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Sounds like you've got the rod 'dialed in.'

Well, everything mentioned above works fine.
Just have to find the proper length of overhang (mainly), and the right length of polyleaders and/or tippet.
Elixir Switch + polyleaders.
Rio SSVT #7/8 floating body + 10' #7 tips, + tippet or 10' polyleader and very short tippet. Haven't tried the intermediate or sinking bodies.
For small flies, the Elixir Spey is really pleasant.
That last bit came as no surprise. Scandi's, in my experience, really are limited to small lightly weighted flies. Which is fine by me as 90% of fishing is that type of set-up here on the upper Rogue river.

One thing I do, that you may want to give a try, is insert 12 to 18 inches of 20 #** Mono MAIN LINE, NOT LEADER, (this may have to be adjusted as you give it a go) between the end of the fly line and sinking polly leader. Where this comes into play is the floating part of your head ... well floats.

This keeps the really weighted poly leader from really sinking (half it will go, effectively, no where below the surface. That bit of mono allows the poly to sink away from the end of the fly line. Won't say the thing will 'sink like a rock but you will get far deeper with your flies.:smokin:

** You didn't mention what line weight you're using so this may need to be 'scaled up' to as much as 30#. Line weight seven and above needs the '30.' One way or the other, look at the end (diameter) of the end of your fly line. That 'Governs all.'
 
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