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Anybody have an opinion on either one of these and/or the difference between them. Does the extra foot give one that much more distance? Thanks
Jims
 

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Coast2coast Flyfishaholic
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Jim -

I just tried the search feature using the word "10151" in the Speyclave section and got a huge list of replies. Might not get you what you are looking for but it looks like a heck of a start!

Good luck,
Juro
 

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Jim,

It is my understanding that the 10161 is made on the same mandrel, that is has the same taper as the 10151. That will mean the 10161 will be somewhat slower in action than the 10151.

While I have extensively fished the 10151 (the original and the new model) I have only given the 10161 a cursory test drive. Will the 16' rod cast further than the 15', without a doubt. It is amazing the difference the extra foot makes in how much of a D-loop you can create - and keep out of the water This is definitely an advantage with a long belly line (probably not that big a deal with a shortish belly). How much further would it cast, I don't know for sure, having not spent enough time with the 10161. I know that for big water I will reach for my 16 1/2 rod every time. Not only does the distance help, but the ability to keep the belly in the air while deep wading and the extra line-handling advantages are important considerations.

Maybe one of my fishing buddies will respond to this thread. rickwbr has fished the 10151 for 3 or 4 seasons and this year used the 10161, he could probably give the best comparison.
 

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Kush knows where of he speaks on the extra 1 foot of rod.

It's absolutly amazing what that extra 12" will do in line control, casting distance, etc. Using the Sage 9140 and 9150 as an example, it's like night and day.

GrandSpey 8/9 was far too much line for the 14' rod; grossly over loaded same. Put the 9/10 GS - a heavier line yet - on the 15' rod (as I advised Dana off line) after 10 minutes of use, I nick-named the combo the "Hammer of Thor." Absolutely nothing that rod and line didn't do extreamly well together. Even throwing sinking leaders or a 15' 8wt type three head right off the end of the dry line.
:smokin:
 

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Speyshop's Speybum
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I LIKE WHAT YOU SAID SO FAR

I neaver have been a big fan or 16 ft. rods have had my share.
But if this rod has a action like the 10151.
It may be right up my alley even if the aciton is a little mellower,
Tell me more
Speybum;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks

Thanks for all the "sage" advice (pun intended). Now I just have to put away a little money for a new reel. Any suggestions as to what might balance the 16 footer?
jims

p.s. How far down the grandspey line are we Fred?
 

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Coednakedspey
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I tried the 10161 over a month ago. What a cannon. A very powerful rod. A bit on the heavy side for my tastes though. I guess that length of 16'1 and power come at a price, and it's not $$$ I'm talking about (although that's a big part of the price too). You'll feel this puppy in your forearms at the end of the day. You don't work it, it works you!
 

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My experience with the sage 10161 is about 25 to 30 days on the
Thompson this fall and a couple of days on the Skagit last spring.
My first impression was, whoa, this is sure alot of rod, more than i probablywould ever need. However, once I started using it on the Thompson I found it to be my rod of choice on such a large river, I was fishing a10/11 accelerator on it and had no problem lifting the whole belly and shooting 25 to 30 feet of line. Where I found the the extra foot over the 10151 benificial is that i am only 5'9" tall and when waded out to my waist it was easier to keep my line off the water during my snake rolls. As far as the extra weight, when i first started spey casting I was using a 14' rod, then i went to the 10151 and thought that was heavy, but you get used to it fairly quick, the same can be said going from the 10151 to the 10161. Having said all this, the only place where I will use this rod is on rivers the size of the Thompson, which makes it a fairly expensive rod for such limited use. If only Sage could make an unbreakeable version of the old 10151, but that is another topic altogether.
 

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Fred, a question re your Grandspey test

On one of your replies you posted re the Grand Spey, "Even throwing sinking leaders or a 15' 8wt type three head right off the end of the dry line"

Fred, did you have a loop on the end of the dry line and then loop attached the 15' sinking heads to the dry line?

One other question, Did you attach a 15' Aqualux tip to the Grand Spey and try it?

Thanks!
 

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Re: Fred, a question re your Grandspey test

Grampa Spey said:
On one of your replies you posted re the Grand Spey, "Even throwing sinking leaders or a 15' 8wt type three head right off the end of the dry line"

Fred, did you have a loop on the end of the dry line and then loop attached the 15' sinking heads to the dry line?

One other question, Did you attach a 15' Aqualux tip to the Grand Spey and try it?

Thanks!
I'm what's known as a "cheap date." DON'T TOUCH THAT YOU GUYS!

For the sinking leaders I'd run a 3-4 foot section of Maxima main line (20# on an 8wt line, 25# on a 9wt line or 30# on a 10wt line) .. pretty much what you'd use as a butt section for a line wt. Tie a loop in the leader then attach the sinking leader. For a 'real' sink tip the section was closer to 6 inches to keep the 'hinging effect' to a minimum.

But (and Joan don't know) I've ordered up two RIO 9-10-11 windcutters/looped from Mark B (yes, you should spend your money there. Good folk and everything is as advertised ... including lets try a "Fred's Hairbrained Scheme") for a better tip toss system for these buggers.

"Historicly," I've used a double taper line with the tapered tip cut off and then looped (2 line wts up from the rod rating) for a tip-tosser. But you're limited to what you can cast; no shooting for extra difference. Long (and delightfull chat) with Mark this afternoon on how to 'design' version II for a couple of Sage 9wts.

Both are their 9wts, but the 14 and 15 footers are sooooo different they could have come from different worlds. So, two set ups (just strip off the old lines, re-lable and go for it stuff). Looking forward to the new "For Fred Christmas Toys" I'm squirming.

Problem of being 60 is what the hell do you buy for Christmas for this clown? Shirts (got 15), socks (more than I'll ever run through in the rest of my life), T-shirt (get real), Suits (he's got 6 or 7 customs in the closet that he doesn't wear anyway), etc., and etc.

So, I'm left (and, it's OK to say your in the same place guys ... yes, we all know the TRUTH here) with a short list of what I really want (will buy anyway). So much for "Christ in Christmas." And that's 'statement of our times.' I won't go there for you all, but it makes me very, very sad so many, have so long forgotten, that it's "someone elses" Birthday.

fae
 

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chrome-magnon man
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Rick, did you try the GrandSpey on your 10161?

Scott, I think the old 10151 was actally supposed to be a 5 piece rod, they just missed putting the extra ferrule in! :devil:
seriously, that was such a sweet-casting rod, and yours is an interesting question: would a 3 piece version have reduced or eliminated the stress point just below the bottom ferrule where most of the rods seemed to break (at least the ones that I broke), or would it have simply moved it further up the blank?
 

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Coednakedspey
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168 Posts
Here's another Q

I don't know much about graphite construction or how graphites work and how you have to layer or roll them before "cooking 'em."
My rod, the GIII 9140-3 is regarded by many, like the 10151, as a sweet casting rod as well. I am really thankful for those who recommended it to me when I had the oppurtunity (Dana, Kush) to purchase it. Having said that, being a dreamer about spey "stuff," (aren't we all?) I wonder how this rod would fair if it had the same taper, same rod design (same mandrel), but it had say the Graphite IIIe instead of Graphite III. I wonder if it would be more responsive, or if the stiffer graphite would ruin the feel/action of the rod. By no means am I complaining about the current rod and current graphite, it's awesome, I just wonder about making something excellent, even better, if that's possible. Thoughts?

Also, maybe this sets the stage for dreaming up how to make rods better. Anyone with insight into graphite rod design and rolling blanks and different graphites would be especially welcome to wade into this topic.

Scott
 
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