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I worked in the graphite tennis racquet industry for Wilson. The mandrels for the raquets were expensive to engineer and we had to put the strongest part in the shoulders 8:00 and 4:00 which took the most impact and most prone to breakage. Now everyone thinks "lighter" is better and that is what sells to tennis players and fly fisherman when they "wave" it in the shop. A very fine line to make it "lighter" and not break. Tennis Pros trade out all of their raquets every 6 months or so as to not get "fatique" cracks invisible to eye. They are skilled enough to tell if raquet is "mushy" from cracks. If you did not bang it with a Lead Chicken fly which can be "detected by warranty dept" could be a defect I.E. that section not enginered strong enough. Of course, company won't tell you that you were one of many with same problem on that section. As to ferrules which don"t apply to your breakage, good advice on board is to check often your ferrules and swipe with ferrule wax occasionly. Relax, drink some Laguvulin and wait for your replacement. I admire your tenaciousness to learn to spey cast.
 

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Beulah Burkheimer Meiser
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I worked in the graphite tennis racquet industry for Wilson. The mandrels for the raquets were expensive to engineer and we had to put the strongest part in the shoulders 8:00 and 4:00 which took the most impact and most prone to breakage. Now everyone thinks "lighter" is better and that is what sells to tennis players and fly fisherman when they "wave" it in the shop. A very fine line to make it "lighter" and not break. Tennis Pros trade out all of their raquets every 6 months or so as to not get "fatique" cracks invisible to eye. They are skilled enough to tell if raquet is "mushy" from cracks. If you did not bang it with a Lead Chicken fly which can be "detected by warranty dept" could be a defect I.E. that section not enginered strong enough. Of course, company won't tell you that you were one of many with same problem on that section. As to ferrules which don"t apply to your breakage, good advice on board is to check often your ferrules and swipe with ferrule wax occasionly. Relax, drink some Laguvulin and wait for your replacement. I admire your tenaciousness to learn to spey cast.

Two of my favorite tennis racquets belonged to my parents who had them made in the 70's. They are bamboo.
 

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Hello, and thank you in advance for your help and insight.

I need some perspective on my practice. I started spey fishing for Atlantic salmon in 2020. I was lucky, I caught a salmon shortly after I started.
I learned the roll cast, the double spey, and the snap T. I felt I was missing quite a bit of practice and strings to my bow, so for this 2022 season, I practiced hard and learned to cast single spey, and snake roll. I haven't mastered the latter yet.

That's what I managed to do in 2 years. I even took a class to better myself.

But. I've had a dark cloud over my head since last summer. My first spey rod (Chromer) broke off while fishing for striped bass, during the cast. It was very windy that day and I thought the weather conditions were responsible for the accident (strong headwinds, strenuous anchoring, etc.).
I received a Claymore in exchange since the Chromer was discontinued.
This morning, after 3 hours of fishing, the new Claymore I received from warranty broke cleanly at the second strand, and the noise was so loud that my partner on the other side of the river heard it loud and clear. That new rod has fished two whole days and has caught only one salmon (an average one, tbh).

I am devastated. To break a rod once while casting, I can understand. Random bad luck. But I don't believe in coincidences.
I've had lessons, I know how to anchor, and my casts sometimes lack consistency. Sometimes I push too hard instead of relaxing and letting go of the pressure I feel to perform in front of others.

Are my casts that bad? To the extent of breaking rods? Honestly, I can't help but wonder. I was already suspicious because I had already broken one. So I took great care of this one, I never put it on the ground, always on the supports, vertically. I don't have a rod mount so I systematically put them back in their tube for transport.

I know I'm on a specialist forum. I know there may be millions of reasons I'm experiencing all these bad lucks. I was just wondering if in your experience, a noob could break a rod while being too rough during the casts. Cause that's what I feel and it's quite humbling.

Thank you for your input. I'm ashamed to go to my fly shop and have them send it in for warranty again. I live in a small town and everything gets out so fast...
I abuse the heck out of all my rods. I doubt you did anything to break the rod by casting/fishing it. Don't fret. G Halliday is correct. you are fine bro
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I have just gotten into the habit of checking ferrules each drop I make, and if it's a loooong run, checking again halfway through. Some rods ARE jewels that I wouldn't want to gum up with tape, and it could affect the flex ever so slightly. I find that the tip-top section usually stays very firm, with the middle and butt sections slipping a bit. Very quick and easy to do on the water, or just flip the rod and run your eye down the guides to see them all still in line. Sections always loosen through rotation.

Had a guide this year who mentioned something called "horse tape" that's apparently available through veterinary supply, which will only stick to itself, not the rod blank. Still, I prefer leaving the blanks beautifully naked as they came, and just maintain the habit of checking. Even with failing tape, they can twist. It's the change of direction casts under tension - they put rotational torsion on the sections, causing them to slowly "unscrew".

In AutumnLeave's case its pretty clear that it was either manufacturer defect but most likely it got dinged with a fly, creating a weak spot. This can happen even with relatively smaller single hooks, as they get ripped out of the anchor and sent outbound with maximum force, right as the rod unloads.

Like a .22LR vs. a 5.56 NATO: same tiny projectile, orders of magnitude on the force behind them.

One more tip to AutumnLeaves: if you fish in relatively safe / remote areas I would highly recommend getting yourself a Sumo suction rod mount. Worth their weight in gold, rather that tearing down the rig (or multiple rigs) each time you move.
Well, the story so far did not say it but I had one last year. He was pulverized by a moose I hit (with two rods... now you get why this affects me so much, that streak of bad luck is quite long now).

I worked in the graphite tennis racquet industry for Wilson. The mandrels for the raquets were expensive to engineer and we had to put the strongest part in the shoulders 8:00 and 4:00 which took the most impact and most prone to breakage. Now everyone thinks "lighter" is better and that is what sells to tennis players and fly fisherman when they "wave" it in the shop. A very fine line to make it "lighter" and not break. Tennis Pros trade out all of their raquets every 6 months or so as to not get "fatique" cracks invisible to eye. They are skilled enough to tell if raquet is "mushy" from cracks. If you did not bang it with a Lead Chicken fly which can be "detected by warranty dept" could be a defect I.E. that section not enginered strong enough. Of course, company won't tell you that you were one of many with same problem on that section. As to ferrules which don"t apply to your breakage, good advice on board is to check often your ferrules and swipe with ferrule wax occasionly. Relax, drink some Laguvulin and wait for your replacement. I admire your tenaciousness to learn to spey cast.
Obviously, I'm tenacious because I love speycasting. My back thanks me every day I spend with a spey rod. But it is hard indeed to find someone that is an expert in the matter and who can fish with me io. check out what I do wrong. We're all learning on the banks of the river, in the end. Next year, I'll invest some more time in lessons. Thank you !
 

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I went for the first time this year and enjoyed it a lot. Not 2 days (I'm close enough to drive back and forth), but 1 was worth it. Several good tips and tricks I hope will translate into improvements to my touch and go casts using a slightly longer line (that my objective for this year 😄 ).
 

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The good news is, AutumnLeaves, that your luck is bound to swing the other way soon! Joining SpeyPages was probably the turning point :)

Where did you hit the moose?

Also, what town are you close to? Lots of saumoniers on here that might be able to provide casting tips in-person, let you try other gear, etc, in case you can't make it to Sherbrooke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The good news is, AutumnLeaves, that your luck is bound to swing the other way soon! Joining SpeyPages was probably the turning point :)

Where did you hit the moose?

Also, what town are you close to? Lots of saumoniers on here that might be able to provide casting tips in-person, let you try other gear, etc, in case you can't make it to Sherbrooke.
In the Matapedia valley. I'm located in Rimouski though.
 

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You cannot really break a healthy rod by casting. Either there is a flaw in the blank or it has gotten a hit. Or the design is bad (too thin wall).
 

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I had a 3 wt. Claymore break in the same way with a very light fly on about the 3rd time I used it. Also met a guide on the Salmon River whose Claymore also broke soon after he started working with it. I'm sure he knew how to cast without breaking a rod. These incidents worried me enough to get rid of Redington rods in favor of Loop and Greys; Beulahs are now my favorite in heavier weights. Only breakage with those so far came when my friend got tangled in lines stepping out of the 28' canoe, breaking my nice 13'2" 7 wt Beulah Platinum...ugh.
 

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I had a 3 wt. Claymore break in the same way with a very light fly on about the 3rd time I used it. Also met a guide on the Salmon River whose Claymore also broke soon after he started working with it. I'm sure he knew how to cast without breaking a rod. These incidents worried me enough to get rid of Redington rods in favor of Loop and Greys; Beulahs are now my favorite in heavier weights. Only breakage with those so far came when my friend got tangled in lines stepping out of the 28' canoe, breaking my nice 13'2" 7 wt Beulah Platinum...ugh.
I agree with Leicadave, but there is more to the story. Many Redington rods are made in China
, as are the rods of a number of manufacturers. I don't have sufficient information to prove it, but I believe quality control, other than aesthetics, is poor in China. I have broken several. My advice is to purchase older USA made rods, like Loomis or Orvis, or even a USA made Sage. I am not dissing all rods made in China as at least one Chinese made rod is my go-to summer rod - I simply believe QC is less there and flaws more likely to make it into our market. But go ahead and get warranty service on that rod as it is of no use as is and if it breaks again, demand your money back. I may be alone, but it bugs me that so much of what we are offered from supposedly US manufacturers comes from China. If the UPC tag begins with 690-699, the product was made in China regardless on the name brand.
 

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You cannot really break a healthy rod by casting. Either there is a flaw in the blank or it has gotten a hit. Or the design is bad (too thin wall).
well, I'm not sure I agree. In normal use and under normal load, yes. But, I've seen rods, pristine and barely on the water, break from mis-timed casts. Likewise the sort of bend a good distance caster can put in a rod, the top competition people, I've seen break otherwise well-designed fishing rods.
 
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