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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've noticed that some guides are replacing the running lines on RIO windcutters and Skagit heads with Slickshooter or other shooting line. Anyone with experience on this like to comment on 1.) connections/loops and 2.) advantages/ disadvantages of different running lines with these setups. Thanks. Zail
 

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Zail,
There are a couple of different options I am aware of. First is the option of splicing the lines using Brian Simonseth's & Ed Ward's recommended method (I just copied this from a previoius thread that SSpey forwarded me):

"Slick shooter is fantastic; here is how I hook it up with NO knots!
I use a piece of .031 running line to my taper section, I attach my Slick Shooter to that.

I strip about two inches of coating off run line, place a needle up though the center core of the running line and leave it there for a couple hours. Put a piece of 30 lbs. braided mono (about 6 inches piece) over the Slick Shooter and get it out of the way. Take the needle out of the core of the running line and put the Slick Shooter up were the needle was (Rough up the Slick Shooter before you put it in the core of the running line). Take tying thread and rap that connection, then pull the braided mono over that connection. And rap both ends with trying thread. Then I coat it with Aqua Flex (felx cement). I use the same system on backing too. NOT lost a line with that slice!"

Second, is to cut the running line about 15' behind the head (to give yourself fly line to hold rather than the slick shooter), nail knot the slick shooter to that and then coat the knot with something like Loon Knot sense.

I'm sure there are more methods out there that others may be able to help with.

Take care,
Chris
 

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I actually have not had a problem holding the slick shooter when casting so I prefer to cut the running line maybe a foot from the taper - I have connected using loop connections (mono loop on both) though have also used a non-slip loop on the slick shooter - by having it connect right at the taper, the knot is outside the guides when I shoot line so only have to deal with the knot when reeling in a fish (rare!!:)

I like the splice option though and will look into that
 

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At Spey-O-Rama 2006 Way Yin demonstrated a characteristic of short head lines cast a long distance, namely that significant drag is needed on the bottom leg of the loop to give proper turnover.

He demonstrated that by casting my Skagit head based floating setup and adding drag to the lower leg by placing the rod tip in the water as the cast approached its end. The same effect can be created by letting the running line drag through one's hand during the cast.

When this "extra" drag was not provided, the longest casts would disintegrate at the end.

I recommend folks experiment with this phenomenon if they intend to fish longer distances. It would appear that, in some cases, adding a low drag running line may defeat the purpose.
 

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Perfecting the bad cast
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Distance is not everything

Bob Pauli said:
At Spey-O-Rama 2006 Way Yin demonstrated a characteristic of short head lines cast a long distance, namely that significant drag is needed on the bottom leg of the loop to give proper turnover.

When this "extra" drag was not provided, the longest casts would disintegrate at the end.

I recommend folks experiment with this phenomenon if they intend to fish longer distances. It would appear that, in some cases, adding a low drag running line may defeat the purpose.
For some it may not be so much about the ease of the shoot, Bob. It could be more about those nasty "Rio Knots" that the grabby green factory running line likes to make.

When I spend every third cast untying a gill net, I won't be doing much fishing.
 

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Jack Cook
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Lots of folks

Lots have been replacing these with Guideline LRL running line. It shoots like mono. I floats like a cork. It is easy to hold. It rarely knots and when it does it does not remember where. I transfers enery well enough to allow good overhang.

It can be spilced right in to the tail end of the SKagit or can be looped. A loop is not a problem as this running line tranfers enough energy to allow overhang during the cast.

The lighness is nice and during longer casts I just regulate the tension as needed by raising and lowering the rod tip. As it comes in .028, .034, and .040 you can get a head start on this by choosing the size that suits you.

Cheers!
 
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