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I just purchased a St Croix 13' 7/8 wt(I would like to thank all who replied to my earlier post!) and I am wondering what line to use with it. I fish medium sized Great Lakes trib's such as Conneaut, The Catt or Oak Orchard. I am primarily interested in floating lines, and I want to overhead cast as well as roll cast, drifting with indicators as well as swinging wet flies.

I already have a wf-7wt, a wf-8wt and a steelhead-taper-9wt, all floating lines. Will any of these suffice or do I need to immediately invest in a new line? I also want to make sure that the rod will "load" for closer in fishing, but as soft as the rod is I don't want to overdo it.

Also, is advisable to "tape" the ferrules, or is using the supplied wax enough to prevent separation and cracking? Thanx in advance!

Hunter
 

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Hunter the lined you mentioned are not ideal for a spey rod in fact they probably wont cast well at all. Spey lines are substantially heavier to a comparable normal line. If you are on a tight budget try looking for a "Spey" DT or maybe a sline somoene has on closeout. Or maybe someome here has a line they couls sell you..
 

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Fly Line

You really need to look at buying an appropriate spey line to make this rod work accordingly. I would look at a Rio Midspey 6/7 for that rod. Or a W/C 6/7/8. Good Luck and Tight Lines!
 

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you'll have to ask others about the wax thing,never recieved any wax with the two croixs i purchased,contact the service center for recomendations!,better check the ferrules a couple times as you `warm up' then,after a couple Good casts,then ,every half to 45 minutes depending on how much fire you have in the boiler:hehe: also if the day starts out cold BEWARE,if they stick because of building temps,cool them down with whatever is available,,the salmon taper line'll get you out there,partial to wulf lines myself,,,,watcha' waitin for,,,???????????????????:chuckle:
 

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loco alto!
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The head on a WC 6/7/8 weight 455 grains. The head on a steelhead taper WF9F probably weighs only a little bit less. It might work for an experienced caster, but if the rod isn't loaded properly, it can be hard as a learning exercise.
 

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heck,wanna trade your lines for a 7-8 midspey,only has about 6 hours on it,i'd LOVE to splice the three you have ,,add a some scotch,,,,Shrapnel Baby:hehe: this light rod you have might not be enough for winter,,so,start saving up!!!!!
 

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Coast2coast Flyfishaholic
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If the 9WF is anywhere near AFTMA, it's going to be in the 240-300 grain range. I've found the weight difference to be profoundly different from spey to singlehand, although the distribution of grains over a longer length makes it so there is not a direct ratio of effort or power needed.

In other words, even if a spey line weighs 1000 grains if it's distributed over 100 feet it's not the same as 1000 grains in 30', obviously.
 

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Now wait a minute!

You know how much I use spey lines on our GL tributaries?? Would you say 90%, 80%......?? How about 20% of the time! Why? They are just not needed.

Try fishing some of our rivers where you can barley get the head out on some of the lines like the Midspey. The Oak and the Catt are suited ideally with a power headed, extended belly taper such as Rio's Salmon/Steelhead taper(thanks Simon, you have everyone hooked on this line for their single handers here in our GL!) :hehe: in a 9/10 wt version depending on the situation. You have the best line here for every situation.....and I made it that way!(well, it took a little time and casting...but I got it!)

GL Line Physics 101: The Rio line is 110' long with a 66' head. What I did was cut back 20-24' from the tip so that you are into the head/belly taper where I put a 40lb hard mono loop. I usually cut farther back on larger line sizes. For example, if you have a 7wt spey rod, bump up to the 9wt or 10wt line and cut back 24'. From here I can attach heads, everything from 150 grain intermediate tips too Type 8 "Big Boy" heads and sections of T-14 if needed. I also can leave the front taper off when I am indicator fishing with my spey rod!:eek: This is a great technique to use, I don't care what anyone thinks....it catches fish. If you think you can fish a MidSpey line with a Type 8 tip in a 5' deep pocket about 10' long at most...you are crazy!! This and similiar instances of short, deep runs are just what I am faced with when fishing about 75% of Great Lakes tribs. If you are up for casting and making an impression have at it....I am into catching fish and if it means using nymphs/eggs, a little splitshot and indicators on a spey rod, so be it!

Now don't get me wrong, I love traditional spey techniques. There is a time and place for that on some of our larger streams, but not all the time.

Who says you can't use a single handed line for spey fishing...hell, I'll show you how to work a Bass Bug taper with my spey rod! It is all about the physics....

Spey lines, please:chuckle: ;)
 

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loco alto!
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Juro - you should consider the entire taper of a steelhead line, not just the 30' AFTMA rated section.

a RIO 9 wt steelhead taper has a 65' head head. At 9 gr/ft, that adds up to 585 grains (give or take, for taper changes). Even at 20% less, its the same as the Windcutter 6/7/8
 

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fly on little wing
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try the 9wt

i used a wf9 with 15 foot sink tip this summer with my 13' 7 wt dec hogan. it worked fine. You will eventually start buying and trying all sorts of lines. then you'll want more rods for the lines that didn't work and you'll need reels or extra spools for the lines. It doesn't stop.

voodoofly
 

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Pullin' Thread
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I would take a look at an 8/9/10 Windcutter with tips and fish it with the middle section removed. Yes, this line will overload the rod if used with the middle section in; but with the middle section removed you will have a line that has about 42 feet of belly and front taper/tip that will ballance the rod very nicely. This will cast well overhead and can also be spey cast.

Another line to look at is the new RIO Scandanavian Spey shooting head, the Loop Adapted line, or the new RIO Skagit line. These should be gotten in 6/7 or 7/8 if you like a slower rod.

The RIO Salmon Steelhead line that was spoken about will also work if you get it in a 9/10 and cut as was described. However, getting an 8/9/10 Windcutter with tips and using it without tip 2 (the middle section) will do the same thing and is ready made, although more costly.
 

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flytyer...

You make a good point, but with the middle taper removed does it have enough power to roll over indicators/splitshot and heads? Just wondering, I never used it with the middle section off.
 

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Fly line???

Hunter,
I have the same rod and I set it up with the windcutter 7/8/9. I am somewhat of a beginner and I can easily get a good cast off with this line, followed by a couple of bad casts(my technique) then right back to great casts. As far as waxing/taping, my rod also came with the wax. In my opinion I think for the time it takes to wax/tape a rod before fishing its well worth the peace of mind. I do both.
Rob
 

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Dansteelieman,

As Bob Pauli said, "That combination will turn over a tank".

Going up to the 8/9/10 Windcutter and taking out tip 2 (the middle section) will allow you to cast a lot of shot added to the leader with the St. Croix (or other make rod) 7/8 spey rod without problems. Just move the weight up in the water column and spey it back out.
 

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ok, sounds good...

I will have to give it a try. I am fine with the line I use, and since I mostly use shooting head type spey lines I don't know if I really need the windcutter, although it is similiar. I feel that the creating/splicing your own lines makes steelheading even better!

MYJP, come fish some of the streams I do...and see if the windcutter is a logical choice, bet I can get you to change your mind. You wouldn't dare fish a sink tip and think you can get down:eek: !
 

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Chuck and duck ... on the Rogue. Ug!

It's interesting to see the number of Calif. lic. plates showing up in Rogue parking lots. Frequently I'll meet the fellows (always nice), but I'm taken by the fact that a substantial majority are useing spey rods with large indicators on their fly lines.

With one major exception, all of them were using a 'chuck and duck' up-stream cast. One fellow last night had a float that would have kept a brick off the bottom of the river.

General fishing 'style' of all but the one above, was 'high stick chuck and duck nymphing' rather than a 'true' spey cast.
fae
 

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Fred,

The type of float you saw is what myself and several others were talking about last year when we posted about the horrible excesses being called "indicators". These have become very popular in some sections (usually near the hatcheries) on some of Washington's rivers. And they are usually being use to float heavy marabou jigs, (true jigs, not marabou flies with lead eyes).

I sure wish the regs would specify a size limit on indicators to put an end to this abuse (cheating really) of selective fishery regs. These floats (as you have seen) are really large dink floats that were made for float fishing with large gear rods. Welcome to the "modern fly fishing with indicators" world!
 
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