Miracle Braid has a very fine diameter core line that must be removed to make a blind splice loop. Roll the very end of the line between your thumb and forefinger to loosen up the MB. Then pull it back to expose the tiny, white core--grab it with your other hand or a pair of forceps. Pull about 18" of the core out moving the braid back as you pull. Snip off the core and follow the instructions for tying a blind splice. Personally, I use a folded over piece of fine diameter wire to run up the braid, the Gudebrod tools are too light for this job. Search Youtube for "Blind Splice Loop" and select the video from Appletron. He is tying a loop to go over the end of a line, but the same thing works in MB, just leave a big loop to go over your reel.
You only need to remove enough core for the 'tag' end to slip back under for the length of your splices. You can splice over the core just fine, probably don't even have to remove any core, but I like the insurance of having it out the tag end for the actual splicing. Do at least 3 in-out segments. In a pinch you can double over 12# maxima and thread it up the braid to use in place of piano wire or the like. I like the loop connecting the head to be large enough that my casting point is always over both legs of the loop. This will extend the life of your braid (where it contacts the rod tip) SUBSTANTIALLY. This is my favorite running line, making sure you are casting over both legs of the loop solves the only glitch it has.
I started pulling out a lot of core when I was still trying to use the Gudebrod tool. Now that I'm using wire, the core can stay in, although you'll likely have a little more trouble getting the wire through with the core in.
For anyone, how much of the Miracle Braid's strength is derived from the core?
I found this youtube video on how to make a blind splice loop in Miracle Braid. What I don't understand is why do you have to run the wire through twice, it seems like once should be sufficient. I ran mine though once with about a 4" tucked in with a dab of super glue on the end to secure it, and it seems to hold just fine. Also do you use an Albright knot to attach the running line to the backing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFLc-sHvF2Q
Airflo Miracle Braid's core is the no stretch part of the line. If you pull the core out to make your loop then the spectra/dyneema component is just floating inside the braid and you just negated the low stretch feature. Keep the core inside. I purchased a guitar string and run about a 5-6 inch overlap and then hit the tip of the junction with a very light application of super glue and coat the whole junction with softex.
The core is only being removed most of the length of the blind splice. I do pull it a little bit into the first splice to it keep it put. If you do three splices about 2 2.5" in length, there is no need to coat the line with anything. No glue or nailknots.
Try this link. Or try searching Deneki Outdoors. You do it twice to really strengthen the connection. You can also search Dan Blanton's site for a really good SBS on making braided loops - same idea. I've used the doubles on small tuna. No problem at all.
I've done blind splice loops in lots of different lines and materials without any failure. This fall I had a loop in miracle braid fail. Fortunately I did not lose the tip, skagit head or the running line. I have no clue why it failed. I guess there's a first time for everything.
Came, IMO, because I didn't have enough of the miracle braid inside the main line. I only had about an inch inside when I first came around and about the same amount when I tucked the tag end back inside. Since the "finger lock" is in play with this knot, over a number of casts and retrieves I can understand how the tag end may have worked its way out. The solution suggested with Aquaseal is a good one. I normally put a six turn nail knot with 10# test material around the section where I tucked the tag back in.
Another factor may be the core of the Miracle Braid. If it is left in the line, it may hinder the locking of the braid inside the main line and let it slide out more easily. Again the extra prevention of the aqua seal or nail know should take care of this as well.
Do a triple in - out splice with each 2 to 2.5 inches there is zero need for glue or a locking knot to click through the guides every cast. It won't fail. What fails on mb is the wear and tear where it contacts the rod tip on each cast. Make your loop big enough (5', yes 10' of line to make your 5' loop) so both legs are always in contact with the rod tip. And pay very close attention to any fibers that get pokey anywhere near your loop or on the legs of the loop itself. The line fails every time once it starts. You will lose everything if you hang up and have to break the fly off.
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