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i am trying to tie some hobo spey type of flies. i finally got a nice dubbed body and sun some guinee up to the collar and even spun a guinee coller. my question is after this the marabou just seemed to lay down did not look like it was supported by the guinee. how can i fix this.
troy
 

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Sounds like you need a dubbing ball behind the guinea .

I don't tie Hobo's very often , but when I do :hihi: :

I like to add a short collar of arctic fox over top the dubbing ball , very sparse though and omit the guinea . I'll wind the marabou as collar and then a collar of dyed guinea or dyed silver pheasant or just schallapan in front of the marabou .

I'm sure others will have suggestions as well :)


Mike
 

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I second the Fox collar if you want that profile... I used to fish these as written and in my experience it's not the profile that is so enticing on that pattern it's the movement. I like to add a collar of whiting spey hackle too since its so long, it dances and just gives a bit more teardrop shape... Oh and find a stuff guinea feather for the hackle and collar.
 

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Swingin for Chrome
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i am trying to tie some hobo spey type of flies. i finally got a nice dubbed body and sun some guinee up to the collar and even spun a guinee coller. my question is after this the marabou just seemed to lay down did not look like it was supported by the guinee. how can i fix this.
troy
Use schlappen for support or spin up a nice ball of dubbing(I use UV stuff for a nice contrast) and brush it out like lots of guys use for intruder patterns. The further you tie back into that ball the marabou will spring out. Also strip one side of the marabou off and tie is sparse this will also help. For my stinger type I use schlappen for under my intruders even after a nice brushed out dubbing ball.

cheers,
Mikey
 

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Just add an extra turn or two of guinea before the marabou. Essentially create a collar of Guinea, then tie in your marabou. You don't need to go nuts though, the fly should be more tear drop, less umbrella shaped.


Also, you can substitute a saddle hackle for the guinea in the body, as it can be difficult to find guinea feathers that are long enough to palmer through the body and build a collar with a single feather. And don't use too much marabou, the key to the Hohbo is sparseness.

If you still need more cowbell spin up an arctic fox collar under the marabou.

Mark
 

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Also consider.....

Try using the fluff from the back portion of schlapen, one that matches your marabou. Use that as the prop, then tie in your marabou and then your collar.

Just a suggestion.

Tom
 

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Pullin' Thread
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You need some sort of "shoulder/ball" before tying in and wrapping the marabou. It doesn't matter if the shoulder/ball is dubbing, chenille, crystal chenille, spun deer hair, a pom-pom ball, etc. What matters is simply having it or else the marabou will "collapse" around the body. Those of us who have been tying and fishing MARABOU SPIDERS for many years learned this a good 30 or so years ago. Adding guinea, dyed mallard or teal flank, or schlappen as a collar in front of the marabou helps to produce some turbulence along the fly and thus, causes the marabou to move and shimmer more than it would without it. But it has to be in front of the marabou for this.
 

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You can also tie in the marabou by the tip with the concave side up instead of down, then wrap as normal. See Dec Hogan's book for more info. This does help keep the marabou from flattening so much.
 

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Hareline Frizzle Chenille

Hareline Frizzle Chenille. Similar to Estaz but longer fiber per size. Good stuff for a shoulder support.

GG
 

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Sounds Like chucking

Cord wood LOL

But I do understand the importance now of a post, learn stuff here everyday
 

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If one is fishing very soft water (winter fishing), then perhaps a broad, full profile is less important. Case in point is the popularity and success of leech patterns. I think one of the greatest attributes of marabou is the way it pulsates with the least little bit of turbulence.

When fishing heavier water, then profile and rigidity might become more important to create undulations in the fly. Bucktail and Amherst seem to fit the bill for this type of water. Especially if backed up by a prop or ball of dubbing.

To turn a phrase, soft fly-soft water; stiff fly-fast water.
 

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Hopeless Romantic...
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Back Eddy, just to take it a step further...

The deer hair usually soaks up the H2O pretty fast, though the fly will still be somewhat "boyant" in the water...
Take a jig and drop it in the current, sinks like a stone, little or know action. Take a non-weighted fly, drop it in, and Viola! Looks like a pole dancer at the beginning of her shift staring at a bunch of horny, drunk ole men with pockets full of cash...

So, sometimes, you control the depth of the fly with the tip Type, not weight in the fly alone, you may loose a few inches of depth but gain action in the fly. Only you can decide if the trade off is worth it for you. I've caught a lot more fish on un weighted flies in winter, than I have with dumbbells, coincidence? Only the fish know for sure...
Also, I at times in winter will add a couple small shot about 16" above the fly, this obviously takes the place of the weight the dumbbell eyes creates, but still lets the fly swim...Lead shot, d-eyes, a larger hook, it's all added weight in the end to get the fly down, don't let anyone kid you on that;) and you should incorporate it however you wish for your situation. I get a kick out of the guys who scoff at lead, then add a huge shank and long leader to do the same thing...The fish could care less either way..
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Lots of ways to hopefully accomplish the same thing, getting a fish to take the fly-

Anyone who says there's nothing left for them to learn in this sport, has stopped paying attention...
Iv'e also played a little with floating flies on shorter sink tips...
Go try some stuff, never know what will work...;)
Good luck out there:cool:
 

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Grandpa Howard
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So, sometimes, you control the depth of the fly with the tip Type, not weight in the fly alone, .
Totally agree with this. I no longer add weight with cones or dumbbells to any of my flies, with the exception of bead chain eyes on a Boss. With the tips available today there is really no need. Ed’s Intruder was not weighted for gaining depth. The small weight at the front keeps the fly riding horizontal in the current. To eliminate butt drag I have been working on balancing with materials and I am pretty happy with what I am finding.

Propping marabou is a piece of cake and any of the ways mentioned will work. I have found spun deer hair followed by spun artic fox creates the best prop. Deer hair is hollow while attached to the hide. Clip it off the hide and it is no longer hollow. I enjoy spinning deer hair, which could be one of the reasons I use the technique. The fox in front of the deer hair creates a web that stops the marabou from filtering through. Straight Artic Fox is my second choice. The link is to a thread I posted after Ed taught me how to tie his Intruders.

http://www.speypages.com/speyclave/showthread.php?t=48229
 

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Discussion Starter #18
this i an awsome thread

Guys i am so glad i started this thread... i am truely learning so many things to try. as sone as i get one done i will snap a picture and post to see what every one thinks...i am excited :)
 

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If you have some polar bear is even better than arctic fox for building support for softer materials like marabou.
 

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This is a good thread on a GREAT site brothers. I had the same problem starting out, pre-speypages my boo fly just looked like a leech on a diet. Then I tried tying more material on and the fly just looked like a wet mop. I like the dubbing ball, guinea, fox or polar bear, the polar bear really shimmers in the light. Half the enjoyment in tying for me personally is testing out flies I've tied and seeing how the various methods swim. The journey is part of the sport, all you can do is improve. This site helps with the learning curve.
 
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