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just say no to bait
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Being a huge fan of short head lines I thought I would try and change my evil ways.

I went out casting with my new accelerator. Things went OK but could have been better. Double spey casts beyond 90 feet were very difficult and I usually ended up piling the line in a heap about 70 feetout.

Snakerolls went much better but still inconsistant.

How much line should be out when beginning the cast?
How long should the pause be on the backcast?
Is shooting line a possibility or should I give up that notion?
What is a reasonable expectation for distance?
The kit: Winston DB fave 9/10 Rio Accelerator10/11.

Advice, tips, and tricks all appreciated

Thanks N I
 

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Here we go again!
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620 Posts
I have no experience with that line, but I know that when you throw a true long belly line like an xlt or a grandspey you really have to extend the stroke. That comfortable short stroke you use on short and even mid lenght heads will not work. You need to extend the rear stroke well back and up with a postive stop and have a nice long slowly accelerating forward stroke ending in a good underhand snap with a hard stop. Be happy with 80 to 90 feet and worry about form, not distance. If it rolls out nicely at 80' work to replicate that cast over and over. Think high hard stop to form a good D loop and thats half the battle. I work on this several times a week, it's the regimen my instructor is having me work on and is progressing well. It is much more difficult than throwing short heads, but rewarding. Try working with less line (60') out at first and the frustration will decrease significantly. ;)
 

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Pullin' Thread
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4,694 Posts
NI,

First, the 10/11 Accelerator is a bit too heavy for the DB 9/10 rod, it can be cast; but it does slightly overload the rod and slow it down a little. The 9/10 Accelerator would not do this slight overloading of the rod and would help in producing sufficient line speed as a result. Don't worry to much if you only have the 10/11 Accelerator though, just remember that it overloads the rod slightly and slows the rod's motions down a bit.

That said, shooting line with the long-belly and extended-belly lines is easy provided you have sufficient line speed. I regularly shoot 30-40 ft of line with my GrandSpeys on some runs. I used to shoot 50-60 ft of line with an Accelerator before I retired them for the GrandSpey.

The double spey is a great cast to learn how the timing and more powerful D Loop needed for the long- and extended-belly lines. It is far easier than using the single spey to learn them. To make a good double spey with the longer lines, you must move more line upstream than with the shorter Windcutter type lines. The anchor needs to be in the same relative position of not more than a rod length downstream of you and the only way to do this is by tossing more line upstream on the upstream sweep. Moving the rod more horizontally upstream and ending with the rod pointing directly upstream will help a lot in doing this.

The downstream sweep is started without any hestitation or stopping of any sort to avoid adding a lot of line stick. Keeping the rod moving keeps the line sliding in/across the water and prevent the dreaded excess line stick.

The backcast into the D Loop requires a definite application of power as the D Loop is being formed. It also requires you to move the rod tip upward a tad at the end of the D Loop forming move.

The forward spey is then begun immediately without hesitating. In fact, the forward casting motion actually begins a very little bit before the D Loop is finished forming. This prevents the D Loop from falling and causing excess line stick from having too much line of the water.

The forward spey is made as you do with any spey line. It is a fast acceleration to an abrupt stop. This can be done with a longer stroke or a very powerful short stroke that has power applied from both upper and lower hands, wrist, and arms. Aim and fire the cast high with the rod stop at about 11 o'clock and watch the line go out and unroll above the water. to cast and shoot more line, add more power to the forward spey.

One more thing, unlike the short-belly lines like the Windcutter, you really need to have 5 ft or so of the back taper of the Accelerator in the rod guides in order to have sufficient line mass to effectively transfer power to the line's belly. If using a GrandSpey, you need to keep the color change in your fingers in order to effect this energy transfer.

These should help you with your foray into the world of longer-belly lines. Good casting.
 

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just say no to bait
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Flytyer, Moose, and all,

The advise and help is great! I didn't realize the two techniques differed that much. I am looking forward to putting the theory to practical use.

I did realize that the line was gong to be slightly heavy for the rod when I purchased it. In an earlier post "accelerator maybe" it came out in the discussion that a number of members altered the line with good success. My overall intention with this rod is to adapt the line for use with a set of Rio tips I already own. That way I can choose between long or short head lines at will and have a set of tips that will work with either line.

As I cut the line back will the overloading effect go away? I don't want to change the line performance drastically, just enough for tyee and winter application.

Cheers N I
 

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Registered
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439 Posts
Long Line

Some tricks that I learned are, weight transfer, slide your shoulders back, and look over your casting shoulder as you are setting up your cast. As Flytyer says, start your forward cast while you "d" loop is still in the air.
A tip that I got from Tyler about the Accelerators, is to cut out the power hinge and add 15' of level belly line from a DT. This adds about 10-15 feet to your cast.
Good luck.
Leroy...............
 

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Pullin' Thread
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4,694 Posts
Cutting back the line could be done to remove the overloading effect; however, it would also change the line's performance and you would no longer have a longer belly line.

Doing what Speyrd said about adding 10 to 15 feet of line to the line after cutting out the hinge is something that I found worked very well with the Accelerator. But if you do this with the 10/11 one you have, it will increase the overloading effect of the heavier line.
 

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JD
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3,641 Posts
Cutting the Accelerator

If you cut the accelerator just behind the power hinge and loop it so that you can attach the tips you already have, you won't lose too much length. Maybe a foot or two. Cut the power hinge out of the tip that you cut off and loop that. It will probably be in the neighborhood of fifteen feet long so it will match your tips in length. Use that until you out grow it. Then get a Grand Spey line and cut and loop it to use the same tips you already have. Check Rio's reccomendations for the Grand Spey to match up with your DB Favorite.
 

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283 Posts
I fish a 15' 8/9 DBF and (because of another post) just got a 7/8 GrandSpey and love the combo. I had the 8/9 GS and it was just too heavy for that rod. The switch has really helped. I was really putting a lot of effort into getting the GS off the water for my singles and switch casts and got into some bad habits trying to "make" things happen. Now I can make a much smoother stroke, both forward and back. If you find yourself looking at the GS try a line one size lighter first.

My only real advice for the DBF's is when you are forming your D loop concentrate on just pulling (loading) the rod back into position and not "casting" the D loop. Since this rod is so powerful if you pull smoothly (speeding up to the stop) until the line leaves the water you can just turn your wrist over and stop the rod and a nice "V" loop will form naturally. If you look over your shoulder speyrd says you'll feel/see when to come forward. As long as that fly/leader is "live" in the water everything should be setup for the forward hit.

-Chris
 
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