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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

I'm looking for the best line for single handed speycasting. I have been looking at the Rio Steelhead & Atlantic Salmon Fly Line, but would really like a multitip line instead OR would the Rio work with heavy polyleaders.
I need the fly to get down fast in strong currents and have not had that much success with a standard wf and fast sinking 10' polyleaders. I fact I rarely have any use for a floating line - how about a sinktip AND polyleaders. :confused:


Rod is a T&T SC 967-4.

Any suggestions ?


Tulle
 

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Fly line for single handed spey rods

Hi Tulle

It depends on what you want in your line. If you want a long head line, like our Salmon & Steelhead Taper you have two options.

The first is that you can put on poly leaders and get down. They are not density compensated and tend to sink in a curve with the tip last (unless you have a heavy fly on) but do get down if you need to.

The other option is that you can send the Steelhead line in to me at Rio. We offer a service of putting our bullet proof loops into any line. It costs $5 a loop, so it will cost you $10 for the two loops in the floating section - 15 feet from the tip. You can then plug in any of the 15' tips from the versi tip or spey lines providing it is the same AFTM.

Another thought is to use the regular versitip line. It has a fairly short head (38' or so), so not great for mending and spey casting big distances without shooting the line. I used that line in the International Spey Casting video for my single hand section. It is easy to spey cast and easy to shoot, but not everyone wants to shoot the line and, if that is the case, the longer head (65') Salmon & Steelhead line will be better.

Please feel free to email me at rio - [email protected] if I can help you with any direct advice or if you would like to have your Steelhead Taper looped.

Kindest regards
Simon


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Discussion Starter #3
Cutting and coating loops

Gentlemen,

thanks for the replies. Simon - since I do not live in the US it would be too costly to send the line to you so I guess I will do it myself - we do a lot of loops when making shooting heads.

Just to get it straight - I cut back the line 15' and loop both "pieces" - can I also use your 24' tips/heads or would I need to cut even more line ?

And last - which is the best way to coat the loops to avoid hinging (if its called that) ?

Thanks
Tulle
 

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Addicted to the cast!
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274 Posts
Hi Tulle

You can certainly cut your own line and make tips. The front taper on the Steelhead line is between 6' and 9' depending on the AFTM (7' on the #7)so you can cut the line after this without affecting the turnover. With a sink tip you obviously need to roll cast the tip to the surface so the further away it is the harder it is going to be to get up - especially with the 24' Big Boys.

I presume you are going to use the #7 on your T&T. If that is the case you won't be able to put on a heavier Big Boy than 200 grains. So as not to overload the rod if you are putting on a 200 grain Big Boy, you will need to cut off about 33 feet to keep the AFTM weight the same. The 150 grain is probably a better bet as you can make the cut at about 24', which will work for the 15'tips as well

If you are only going to use the 15' tips then I would make the cut at about 20'.

With regard to stiffening loops I have taken a regular braided loop and some Hard Saltwater monofil of 30lb. Through a lot of care and swearing you can thread the piece of monoil through and around the braided loop. This stiffents it up considerably but takes time and patience! Alternatively if you are not using braided loops you can use AquaSeal as a reasonable glue. This is flexible enough to make sure the line is locked rigid, but helps to stiffen the loop to avoid hinging.

I hope this info helps.

All the best
Simon
:smokin:
 
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