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loco alto!
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a newer version Sage 7136 that I like very much -- except for the very short bottom grip. I would like to either have the bottom cork lengthened 1.5", or have the entire grip/seat assembly rebuilt 1.5" higher up the blank.

I would like to hear pros/cons about either approach, and recommendations for getting the job done. I'm an amateur "rod kit" type of builder, and have never done any custom cork work.

THANKS
 

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Coast2coast Flyfishaholic
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Custom work? Two words....

ROBERT MEISER!!
 

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Steve
Your "project' ,since you mentioned you've done some rodbuilding, would be a very simple task(and a highly recommeneded one for this rod.I have NO idea why Sage continues to build the 7136 ,this way.Check in the Speycasting archives and there should be a long thread on this subject.Adding 1 1/2 in. of cork to the butt section AND increasing lenght of the foregrip to 25 rings makes this rod a delight to work with.IMHO also you might want to increase the dia. of the cork to 1 1/2 in. I'd also sacrifice the reelseat instead of adding a spigot onto the butt section to make up the 1 1/2 inches.
Cheers and good luck
Brian
 

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Stripping a rod butt is easy enough, but it's important not to be ham-handed. If you don't take care, you risk cutting through into the rod shaft. Cut the cork with a knife (try not to cry as you think of the wasted $). Cut diagonally through the reel seat with a hacksaw, or carefully remove it with a grinding wheel. Carefully file down the glue lumps; you don't have to get the blank shaft completely bare; a little unevenness makes for a better glue bond.
You're free to be creative. Any spey rod can use a full-length handle; but it doesn't need to be scaled like the big guns. A 7136 or other rod for lighter reels and line weights can work fine with a smaller-diameter reel seat. I just acquired a 15-foot Bruce & Walker for 9/10 lines. Its rear handle is fully seven inches long (total handle length: 24 inches). But the reel seat is typical of the British approach to lighter spey rods: a fixed lower hood under the lower handle's cork, and a sliding upper ring. The whole rod weighs about 9.5 ounces, and feels amazingly light in the hand.
 

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Steve,

It's a pretty simple procedure to extend the butt of that Sage a little....The 1736 is an excellent rod... But I agree...The rod would be better with an extended butt !

Carefully knife off the cork as described by previous posts. Get as much of the cork off as you can without actually touching the blank with that knife.

Then take a Hair dryer and heat up the remaining small amount of cork and epoxy. The epoxy will oxidize and pretty much turn to a powder. You can then remove the rest of the remaining cork and epoxy with your thumbnail or a plastic burnishing tool.

Try not to scrap the blank with any metal tool.

Once you have the butt end clean, you can snugly slip a composite sleeve over the end of the blank.

Extend it a few inches by securing the sleeve in place with a 5 minute epoxy.

Allow the sleeve to cover at least 3/4 the length of the exposed butt section.

You can now add the cork rings, or preformed cork to extend your lower grip.

Spey butt caps are available from a few component suppliers. I use 1.5" solid rubberized cork rings for this.

If you wish to remove the entire grip assembly and save the reel seat to start a-new.... Mail me and I will talk you through it.



Bob Meiser
 

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Steve, I'm with Juro on this one. Had Bob do a similar thing to one of my rods.

He's a 'cutter beyond compare.' Send him your rod and tell him what you need. Very Cool Results!!!
:smokin:
fae
 

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Bobbie, forgot to ask.

Is the 'slimmed down' handle on my new 'switch rod' good to go?

Summies are a cummin!!

Ya Baby. All that nonsence was to indicate that Meiser builds a custom rod that will take your breath away due to their action, castability (is that a word?), feel in the hand, etc.

Good plan A to drop your dimes on rods that really are quite extrodinary.
fae

In context: Bob is also one of Ashland's better home buillders. Which would tend to flow: good contracter, good rod builder to let the 'pressure' off.
Sweet!
fae
 

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Yep,

Looks we were typing at the same time !!!

BTW ...Thanks for the kind words.

And more importantly... Yes the 11'8" 5/6 is ready.

Took it down below Boyle dam on the Klamath Sat. for a "Test Run" on those fiesty little Redsides with the Goldens kicking off.

Product research mind you...The outcome was positive !

It's a dirty job...But somebodies gotta do it.

Jimmy Long and I are going again Weds...Got room for one more ?!
Meiz
 

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loco alto!
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Discussion Starter #9
sounds like I can "handle" this repair, so to speak. What is the composite sleeve of which you speak?
 

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Steve,

To continue with this winding thread of "Sage" advise....

I would use a graphite sleeve of 33 million modulus, or "S' glass.

Even though you are extending only a little, it is best not to exceed the modulus of the existing butt.

The ID of the sleeve should match the OD of existing by a minus to be just snug... In essence as a ferrule would be.

Scraps of this type are again readly available from suppliers...Or perhaps from an old rod section that you may have.

I may have what you need in the shop...Lord knows I've created my share of scrap over the years...Not a bad omen...Just a reality !

You will need to give me/supplier the OD of the butt once you have removed the lower grip.

Meiz
 
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