[argos]

Braided loop or nail-knot for newbie spey caster with 8/9/10 RIO WC?

Need to set-up all those sinking tips, even though probably shouldn't even be thinking about casting without the floating head yet, but was just wondering how you guys complete the leader-line junction?

 

[t_richerzhagen]

Braided loop

or loop in the line itself. A simple nail knot can strip the coating off the line. You can modify the nail knot to prevent that, but I like the braided loop better.

 

[fredaevans]

I'm a nail knot kind of guy. Problem (as noted above) is the stripping of the out coating of the line ... if you use "low test" material for the butt section. Stick with Maxima MAIN LINE at 25 or 30 pound test depending upon the line weight.

Fred

 

[FLGator]

I highly recommend you avoid the nail knot and go with the Albright knot. Much better knot for this application.
Chris

 

[NrthFrk16]

a nailknot is all i ever use.

using 30# UG and 7 or 8 turns, I've never had an issue with a standard nailknot on the type III or type VI...given that the type VIII and Aqualux are monocores, you have to be a little more careful, especially with the Aqualux but I've never had a nailknot pull loose on the type VIII.

 

[pescaphile]

I like nail knots best. If you pay attention to your tackle, you'll not have any problems stripping off the line's coating for any floating or sinking line with a standard, braided core. They make for a smoother connection than the braided loops or an Albright knot.

But use the Albright for any of the clear intermediates. Those mono cores are slick and the coating can be easily stripped off of them!

 

[harley]

I have not had the best luck with nail knots to attach my leaders-I usually find that after a day or two`s fishing that the knot has either started to cut into the fly line or has cut the line-For me the albright knot works better if I am using short leaders on sinking lines, but if I am using longer leaders on a floating line I find that the knot tends to catch in the guides-For this reason I would rather use the smallest braided loop that I can insert the fly line into then tie the loop off with Kevlar thread and finish with thinned aquaseal for a nice smooth finish. But, if the knot works for you, go with it. For me I`ll stick with the loops.

harley

 

[sinktip]

Sparkey and I are in agreement on this one. 30# Maxima UG and a min. of 5 wraps on the nail knot.

I have experimented a little on folding the line back on itself to create a small loop and then nail-knotting it. The theory is this gives a little better energy transfer for turnover when using long leaders nad a floating line. For tip work though, I just use the 30# Maxima.

 

[sean]

I have gone to doubling the flyline to create a loop and then nailknotting the flyline to itself for floating lines. For tips just a nailknot.

If you are a speypages subscriber you can see the loop method here:

http://speypages.com/speyclave/showthread.php?t=19831&highlight=field+loop

I find it is just as strong as a nailknot and possibly stronger as you also have a doubled over flyline creating friction on itself. I also use this method for my single hand intermediate and sinking fly lines and never a problem with big fish. Plus it makes swapping out leaders a piece of cake.

-sean

 

[SSPey]

floating line: albright or the loop Sean mentions

tips: albright 20 lb (not 30) Chameleon butt section, 1 foot length to a small perfection loop seated with superglue. Permanent butt. Then loop on 3-4' of straight tippet to fish. The 20 lb (as opposed to 30 lb) butt forms a neater loop-to-loop junction with tippet, and is plenty strong. Chameleon is preferred for the butt because it remains pliable and strong over time, whereas Ultragreen (which I like for tippet) weakens more quickly.

 

[Poul]

I like a doubled loop nail-knotted with either 14lb or 20 lb fireline, then covered with aquaseal or equivelent.

Poul