Integrated Scandi Fly Line
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1,336 Posts
dont know about the 40+. beulah used to have them before they changed vendors. new one shows on web site, but apparently wont be avail for awhile yet. maybe you can find an old style one? for longer rods, if you can find the discontinued rio afs, they are a great integrated scandi. wish more companies made them.
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11,027 Posts
For the most part ....
An integrated fly line just means you have the 'head,' what ever that may be construction wise, and a full shooting line behind (all one piece). Where this limits you is you have 'just' one line and need extra reel spools to change out to something else.
What many of us do is contact Steve Godshall (SGS here on the board or 541 840 2594) and have him build you the head(s) you need and a separate shooting line. The two bits go together via a small loop to loop connection.
Only thing to keep in mind is most of his lines can be (very) rod specific due to what he wants in casting performance. Be that distance or fishing; the two aren't necessarily the same. Your first call will be a long one as he picks your brain as to where you fish, for what, size of flies, yada-yada. Once he's got that down (notes all go into his computer) you can call and ask for just a new 'head' for the rod. To a degree all 2handers have a grain weight range so the 'tips' could have quite an over lap.
No big deal if you have more than one rod that would require different grain weights, head lengths, etc. The shooting line doesn't care, its just what gets attached to the end that counts. Only thing you want to do is keep the 'extras' in separate zip lock bags marked with indelible pen info of what's in the bag, for what rod, etc. :smokin:
An integrated fly line just means you have the 'head,' what ever that may be construction wise, and a full shooting line behind (all one piece). Where this limits you is you have 'just' one line and need extra reel spools to change out to something else.
What many of us do is contact Steve Godshall (SGS here on the board or 541 840 2594) and have him build you the head(s) you need and a separate shooting line. The two bits go together via a small loop to loop connection.
Only thing to keep in mind is most of his lines can be (very) rod specific due to what he wants in casting performance. Be that distance or fishing; the two aren't necessarily the same. Your first call will be a long one as he picks your brain as to where you fish, for what, size of flies, yada-yada. Once he's got that down (notes all go into his computer) you can call and ask for just a new 'head' for the rod. To a degree all 2handers have a grain weight range so the 'tips' could have quite an over lap.
No big deal if you have more than one rod that would require different grain weights, head lengths, etc. The shooting line doesn't care, its just what gets attached to the end that counts. Only thing you want to do is keep the 'extras' in separate zip lock bags marked with indelible pen info of what's in the bag, for what rod, etc. :smokin:
If you are stripping flies, the loop connection can get annoying fast. That is what has motivated my own past purchases of integrated lines.
Why does it matter what the line is called? What are you trying to accomplish with the line?
It's a 30-something length shooting head with a thin runner. Good overhead line and spey casts reasonably well IMO. Front taper is not quite as long as a typical 'scandi' line.
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735 Posts
I believe that they were "half weight" single handed lines on single handed rods in fresh and salt for belting out long lines - along the same lines as the RIO Outbound. I think they were at the top end (and maybe outside) of the grain range for the designated line weight.
I guess with the particular grain weight and length of head, it was discovered they were good light double handed scandi lines as well.
S
I guess with the particular grain weight and length of head, it was discovered they were good light double handed scandi lines as well.
S
The heads are more than two line sizes heavy relative to the AFTMA spec, though the regular 40+ is also longer than the 30' spec so the comparison is not apples to apples. Similar in weights to the Outbounds, but different tapers. The Outbound has a very short front taper, like four or five feet, it's almost a level line.
David1123
I thought about making my Airflo scandi compact and ridge running line into a one piece line, but I don't know how. After you cut the loops off how do you put them back together again. All the videos I've seen only show how to make a welded loop.
I thought about making my Airflo scandi compact and ridge running line into a one piece line, but I don't know how. After you cut the loops off how do you put them back together again. All the videos I've seen only show how to make a welded loop.
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735 Posts
These are quite in vogue on the Stillwater scene here in the UK, where long casts on reservoirs are required from the bank. I've never used them myself even when I did fish stillwaters, plenty enough distance could be obtained with "normal" long bellied lines.
Doesn't the AFTMA spec weigh the first 30' (excluding the front level section) regardless of the actual head length?
Airflo lines are very easy to weld and connection becomes very durable. Put them side by side inside heat shrink tubing about one and half inches and heat carefully first in the middle and then roll it between thumb and fingers. Then heat the other end and roll again and then the rest. Then rip tubing away. Clear tubing is best as you can examine weld becomes good but colored is OK because you can put new tubing and do welding again if first weld did not become good. Weld becomes more pliable to all directions when you make lines "screw" slightly.
Esa
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766 Posts
David,
Take a look at Peter Charles's vid's; www.hooked4life.ca. IMO the best there is on welding.
Enjoy The Spey Journey,
sixheads
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894 Posts
The head is too long for that assuming you want to use tips
Sent from my SGH-I547C using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-I547C using Tapatalk
A 40+ spey casts fine for me on a single-hand rod, no idea why it would be too long for an 11' switch rod. It's longer than the shortest scandis but not shorter than many other things.
Yes, the spec is over 30'. The point I was making is that since the heads are longer than 30' they are not as much over the spec as it would appear purely looking at the head grain weight.
For example:
7wt 40+: 284 gr vs. AFTMA spec of 185gr for 7wt, 280gr for 10wt.
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894 Posts
I spey cast a 40+ on my 7wt sh also but I thought the question was more directed to it being a scandi. A scandi head is shorter so it can turn over tips better and also has more mass in a shorter head. I cant say the 40+ wont speycast but to ask it to turn over what a scandi head or a switch line will do.....it wont
Sent from my SGH-I547C using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-I547C using Tapatalk
I use a 40 plus 6wt on an Echo Dec Hogan 11'9" 4wt trout spey. Using 10' sinking polyleaders and soft hackle wets or smaller streamers I think it casts quite nicely. I haven't tried to cast any "large" flies with it. I've also heard it described as an integrated scandi line.
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