If you are stripping flies, the loop connection can get annoying fast. That is what has motivated my own past purchases of integrated lines.The two bits go together via a small loop to loop connection.
Why does it matter what the line is called? What are you trying to accomplish with the line?But, is an Airflo 40 plus an integrated Scandi line. Someone once said it was.
The heads are more than two line sizes heavy relative to the AFTMA spec, though the regular 40+ is also longer than the 30' spec so the comparison is not apples to apples. Similar in weights to the Outbounds, but different tapers. The Outbound has a very short front taper, like four or five feet, it's almost a level line.I believe that they were "half weight" single handed lines on single handed rods in fresh and salt for belting out long lines - along the same lines as the RIO Outbound. I think they were at the top end (and maybe outside) of the grain range for the designated line weight.
These are quite in vogue on the Stillwater scene here in the UK, where long casts on reservoirs are required from the bank. I've never used them myself even when I did fish stillwaters, plenty enough distance could be obtained with "normal" long bellied lines.The heads are more than two line sizes heavy relative to the AFTMA spec, though the regular 40+ is also longer than the 30' spec so the comparison is not apples to apples. Similar in weights to the Outbounds, but different tapers. The Outbound has a very short front taper, like four or five feet, it's almost a level line.
Airflo lines are very easy to weld and connection becomes very durable. Put them side by side inside heat shrink tubing about one and half inches and heat carefully first in the middle and then roll it between thumb and fingers. Then heat the other end and roll again and then the rest. Then rip tubing away. Clear tubing is best as you can examine weld becomes good but colored is OK because you can put new tubing and do welding again if first weld did not become good. Weld becomes more pliable to all directions when you make lines "screw" slightly.I thought about making my Airflo scandi compact and ridge running line into a one piece line, but I don't know how. After you cut the loops off how do you put them back together again. All the videos I've seen only show how to make a welded loop.
David,I thought about making my Airflo scandi compact and ridge running line into a one piece line, but I don't know how. After you cut the loops off how do you put them back together again. All the videos I've seen only show how to make a welded loop.
A 40+ spey casts fine for me on a single-hand rod, no idea why it would be too long for an 11' switch rod. It's longer than the shortest scandis but not shorter than many other things.The head is too long for that assuming you want to use tips
Yes, the spec is over 30'. The point I was making is that since the heads are longer than 30' they are not as much over the spec as it would appear purely looking at the head grain weight.Doesn't the AFTMA spec weigh the first 30' (excluding the front level section) regardless of the actual head length?
I use a 40 plus 6wt on an Echo Dec Hogan 11'9" 4wt trout spey. Using 10' sinking polyleaders and soft hackle wets or smaller streamers I think it casts quite nicely. I haven't tried to cast any "large" flies with it. I've also heard it described as an integrated scandi line.Maybe I'm asking the wrong question. How well does a floating Airflo 40 plus spey cast, and roll cast on an 11' switch rod.