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if you could live in one place in the lower 48 for winter steel>>>??

11K views 63 replies 33 participants last post by  Rick J 
#1 ·
OK - if you could pick one place to live for winter steel where would it be? Keep it to the lower 48.

I have a lot riding on this as this may be where I spend much of my time starting in about a year. A few places come to mind such as the OP, around the Tillamook area and the Rogue area. But I am coming at this with an open mind
 
#2 ·
Oregonian born and bred. I've fished all ends of the state for all species. I've lived in Portland since day one, except for the college years in LaGrande(God's country for sure). Have a home in Central Oregon and love it there. With all that in mind, and especially considering where your profile says your from, I don't see how you could drive past the Rogue intent on the other two. I've visited Forks and the OP but I wouldn't want to live somewhere where it rains MORE than Portland. And Tillamook area...NO WAY(love those Rivers though), see above and add flooding! Even if you go spend some time in either of those areas, knowing that Southern Oregon was on your list, you'll head back that way. The weather is the number one reason I'd choose S Oregon over the others but if your decision is strictly based on winter fish, someone might be able to talk you in to one of the others. Is this a retirement move or for a new gig? If it's retirement then S. Oregon no question. All the big city needs, and great schools and healthcare, but you're in the middle of nowhere in 15 min. MUCH better socioeconomic scenario around Medford/Ashland too, especially if you're after a new gig. Maybe Oregon isn't best due to taxes and that's where Washington usually wins but there's too many other +'s to list here. PM me if you want more of my opinion. Oregon is a great place period but it's not undiscovered anymore, the state continues to grow. Sounds like an enviable situation you're in, maybe? I want to move where the fishing is best someday but I already live there-can't beat Portland for that! Good luck finding your new home town.
JMHO
CA
 
#3 ·
My home state minus

Minus the dams and clear cutting. Cant imagine how nice Cali was before we cast our giant shadow. The Shasta basin, the feather, and the countless rivers west of the sierras.
There is a special place up north which has been beat down royaly. It still clinges to life when everything is right. The tears are welling up.
If I had to pick one, it'd be that magic place that rhymes with seal. Oh the seel...... what a fallen gem!!! I popped my steelhead cherry there in 89 with a 20+ lbs buck. I was instantly smitten. Still my favorite. Close your eyes and imagine it before us. Dreaming
 
#5 ·
YUP -retirement is in the cards - I plan to sell everything and buy a truck and big 4 season trailer and follow the fish - living in trailer parks- so no property taxes to worry about - I like Oregon for low truck registration and no sales tax. the Rogue is definitely high on the list. My ex-wife's folks lived for many years in Gold Hill so know the area
 
#7 ·
The rain isn't so bad...

...when you can just flip the wipers on while you drive away from it! I want a rolling home someday. You've definitely got the best setup for chasing fish around. The Oregon coast is beautiful and the Tillamook area outs you smack dab in the middle of your other two areas mentioned. Doesn't sound like you really need to put down roots anywhere, I think you're setup to just drive in circles and fish your arse off. Stop by Portland on your way through and we'll get out on the water. Have fun and congrats!
 
#8 ·
I am considering relocating back to the PNW. Already retired w/ fixed income and had enough of 6 month winters with -30 degrees. Need access to proper medical facilities, cuisine, culture, long gardening season, fishing and hunting for the freezer. Have no need of combat fishing from shore or boat.

My search is clouded with articles regarding the constant battle over hatchery/wild fish, combat fishing, and decreasing fish return numbers. Things sure have changed since I lived in Spokane in the 80's.

Research indicates that Bend is as expensive as where I am now and southern OR appears to be too hot for me. I'm considering Port Angeles (spent time there) and Sweet Home. I don't need to be in the middle of prime fishing; my Prius will get me to the Basin & Range Province or Northport on the Columbia.

Any thoughts will be appreciated.
 
#10 ·
BC economical?

Rick, is BC out of the question?
I get the impression that the OP seems fairly crowded when prime.
Southern Oregon makes sense as you can "sag" a couple hours south with little pressure when it's right.
 
#11 ·
sixrivers - I have a friend (previous president of our Redwood Empire TU chapter) who moved up to BC with her husband a couple of years ago. They live next to the Skeena and I do have an open invitation to visit which I hope to do. But with recent changes up there limiting fishing by non-residents to an extent, not a place I think I will want to settle for an extended time
R
 
#12 ·
SteelerHeeler - not a fan of 5th wheels as I need the truck bed equipped with a shell for extra storage.

Still researching but for sure the truck will be 4wd, crew cab long bed. My whining friends insist on the crew cab option!!! Likely will be diesel and likely the Chevy (seems to have best review out of the three)

as to a trailer - looking at the Artic Foxes in the 28-30 ft. range with pop outs.

both truck and trailer will need to be used!!!
 
#13 ·
Assuming 'just you' and a good dog (or two).



A 34'ish foot motor home with all the "toys" (most come that way anyway:rolleyes:). You just hook up your 'toad' behind. But a 4x4 is a very good choice. AtRiver'sedge RV park in Brookings, OR is a good place in November and December. You really don't need a larger unit than that.

An excellent RV board is "RV.net," think I got that right.
 
#14 ·
Recently got the Silverado Duramax/Allison 2500 crew cab which is an amazing machine. Also researched and bought a Black Dog 25BKS travel trailer which is made by Outdoors RV in eastern Oregon specifically for the Northwest. All weather closed construction with 76 gallon fresh water tank and 40 gallon gray and black tanks which is great for primitive camping. Prefer the bunks model and use the top bunk for storing fishing gear and bottom bunk for our Springer Spaniel. I recommend checking it out.
 
#17 ·
Hi Rick,

Your plan sounds like a fisherman's dream. If or when we were to leave Alaska Oregon would be high on the list of destinations. I've only been there one trip for ten days but already have gears turning for a return visit. I wish you the best in this endeavor and look forward to you posting here when you can.

Ard
 
#18 ·
The Peninsula has become something of the "de facto" answer to winter steelheading...and as a result takes a lot of pressure when fish are in. Partly because there are very few options left for the Seattleites and partly because that's where everyone else has been told they have to go. It also has a reputation as a "big fish" locale...which it is to some degree, but it also serves up some of the most difficult swung fly steelheading you will participate in. There was a time when I would spend upwards of 80 days every winter fishing out there, but it's gotten to the point now where I begin to lose focus for numerous reasons. At this stage, I'm not sure I'd choose it as a viable spot to move to for winter steelhead opportunity.

I'd probably choose someplace around the Vancouver, WA/Portland, OR area. It puts you a couple hours from the Peninsula should you get the itch, maybe 45 minutes from stuff like the Clackamas/Sandy. Some smaller stuff on the lower Columbia, etc. You also have the option of going to the Deschutes and Klickitat in about an hour during the summer/fall time period. During the middle of the summer you're within an hour of the Cowlitz and a strong run of hatchery fish. Although, if I were in your situation I'd be headed to the Skeena region for the fall months.

The Kalama and East Fork Lewis are pretty close to you in Vancouver, but aren't but a shadow of their former selves...maybe someday. At the current time there really isn't any great fishing right out your back door (20 minutes or less) though, so that might be a deal breaker.
 
#20 ·
RickJ/Sinner

If you are retired living in a trailer/RV, then "Oregon" is all you have to say. You can relocate to the appropriate river depending on your mood. Towing, the worst drive is probably 4-5 hours to be in a completely different region/terrain. Medford/Roseburg/Coast/Portland all have ample private RV or State and Federal campgrounds. I don't know much about private campgrounds on the Deschutes, but there are Federal dry camps.

Personally, Medford is a little warm in the summer. Portland could be a little warmer. Roseburg is just right for just about everything but a 5 days in August (there will be 5 100+ days, but it is dry). Medford probably has better all around medical care, but if that were a major factor I'd choose closer to Portland or Eugene. Sweet Home is a winner of a town if you are beyond kids/schools, but most variety in SH fishing will be quite a drive. I'm not sure what you would gain.

Not pimping, but generally runs are probably in the best shape of my adult life. That may not apply to every river, but everyone from community wastewater, timber to fishermen seem to be more responsible. Clearly room for improvement, but that will always be the case.

Get the 5th wheel and figure the rest of the truck storage out another way. The room you gain in living quarters will be worth it. It is going to be home.

When you get here and need to borrow a drift boat, let me know. Mine sits unused in the yard too many weeks out of the year.
 
#21 ·
Sinner:
6 month winters with -30 degrees: I experienced 0 once near the summit of the Cascades
Need access to:
proper medical facilities: Portland/Eugene/Bend/Salem or Medford in order. Roseburg is OK, but you will end up going to Eugene for more significant things.
cuisine: Portland. Bend, maybe. (at risk to inciting someone's wrath, not much variety anywhere else. "oh, an IHOP!", "We've got a brewpub")
culture: Portland. Eugene a bit. Bend, not a wasteland.
long gardening season: Medford or Roseburg by Oregon standards. Willamette Valley, but too cool for a decent tomato.
fishing:
hunting for the freezer: Your choice. Depends on what you want & on how hard you want to work to avoid other people. Lots of public lands across the state. I'd stay South, but that is just the country I know from growing up.

I'd say Grants Pass, but IMO it is Medford without the amenities.
 
#30 ·
I had to laugh!

Fellow has nailed Oregon. Leave the Portland-Sail um I-5 strip and there isn't many of us left. Which is a good thing? Fishing the upper Rogue and even our Dogs know each other. Sniff-snort and they'd go off to explore until we 'whistled' them up.

There still is 'free land' in America. Police Officer: 'They have to be under leash;' answer from all of us Sr Citizens was 'Do any of us old guys look like we give a fuxk?' If you're hungry there's a half subway sandwich, or some beans and some kind of meat in the pan. Here's a spoon "That was the Dog's half, sit down and look at the river." Dogs were displeased, but they were fat anyway.

Never been bothered since. Well, asked if I'd had/could brew up a cup of fresh tea. 'Will take a while' but fired off the Kelley Kettle.
 
#31 ·
Me too


Heck, I'm retired and have a (smaller) pickup and trailer, and I'm a little jealous too. Wife has to work 4 more years, and she doesn't fish so it's 2-3 weeks at a time for me. I guess I can't really complain; the wife is happy to let me go when I want.:smokin: RickJ, if you make it to the Henry's Fork area shoot me a PM and maybe we can get out on the water.
 
#23 ·
WesS,

Small town for small aches/pains/lower property taxes/ lower electric rates (NH is one of the 4 highest in the US) /groceries, w/in 2 hours of a larger city (Portland, Eugene, Salem) for the other needs/amenities. Don't need schools/daycare, etc.

I only have 90 guaranteed frost free growing days here (Memorial to Labor day) and still have tomatoes (started in the greenhouse). The National Weather Service calls this area "the cloudiest in the lower 48" and Mt Washington (site of the highest recorded wind at 231mph) is 8 miles as the crow flies from my home. Sweet Home, or similar town, would be a welcome relief.

Traveling for fishing/hunting is part of the experience and puts food in the freezer. Wouldn't mind hunting for deer/elk with an outfitter. After watching "Food, Inc." and "Forks over Knives" on Netflix, I eat what I grow, catch, or shoot.

Probably best to move, rent, and bop around for a year to get a feel for the place.

Thanks for the input.
 
#27 ·
That's a thought provoking comment re: Portland's attitude towards hunting/fishing considering a city mindset that celebrates the world's largest nude bike ride. I think the word 'bias' comes to mind. Question is, what is the basis ?

City Search data suggests that a $50K income in northern NH would require an income of $49.6K in Bend, $44K in Roseburg, and $41K in Sweet Home. In addition, CS lists 38 toxic sites in and around Roseburg although, in all honesty, the size or degree of toxicity is not listed. Could be a broken outhouse pipe.
 
#28 ·
great ideas out there - southern Oregon coast has appeal - puts me close to the Smith and not that far from the Eel - my old stomping grounds. Cost wise I will likely need to pick a place for at least a month at a time as most RV sites have lower monthly rates than daily rates

Regarding the heat in Medford area - not an issue as in the summer I will likely be chasing my other big passion - spring creek trout on 2 and 3 wts - I am lucky enough that I can still tie on those size 20, 22, 24 LTFs on 7x!!! So Silver Creek and maybe Henrys Fork as I am hearing better things though there is lots to cover in Idaho, Montana, Wyoming and Colorado - maybe pick one state a year as fishing licenses in 7 states could be costly!!!
The fall will likely be up around the Clearwater/Grande Ronde with late fall back at my all time favorite - the Klamath.

Just maybe I will be the one saying "you should have been here last week" rather than the one who hears it!!!:)
 
#32 ·
HF was my absolute favorite place to fish back in the late 70s then water wars and irrigation just brought it to its knees!!!! So since then been more focused on Silver Creek but hoping to get back to the Fork.

any involvement with the HF Foundation? Do you happen to Know Dr. Rob VanKirk? His dad is a big time steelheader and professor at Humboldt State and a good friend of mine and I knew Rob when he was just a kid!!!!!
 
#37 ·
any involvement with the HF Foundation? Do you happen to Know Dr. Rob VanKirk? His dad is a big time steelheader and professor at Humboldt State and a good friend of mine and I knew Rob when he was just a kid!!!!!
No direct involvement with the HF Foundation, just TU member and member of Friends of the Teton. Don't know Dr. VanKirk. I haven't fished Silver Creek much, but one of my lasting fishing memories is hooking a monster there in about 1968 or '69. I never saw it; it took off downstream and broke me off about 50 yards out.
 
#33 ·
The only problem with a trailer is that you can't, in Oregon, pull a boat trailer behind it. If you wanna fish from your boat, you're stuck with Fred's idea (motor home) or a camper (our modus). With a 1 ton, you can comfortably haul a 12 ft camper and pull a sled or drift boat.
 
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