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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was assisted with my reorganization of my windcutter sink tips collection by my grandson the other day. Removing the little tags which indicated what the sink rate was for each of the six tips.

I do have the little ID card that Simon gave me at the Sandy clave...but some of the tips didn't seem to correspond to the color codes described on the card.

Question: How can I definitively determine the actual sink rate of each tip section?

I am hoping there is a simple way to do this...I'm no rocket scientist. :Eyecrazy:
 

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If all the tips are the same line weight, you can just go by the thickness of the tip. The thinner the tip, the faster it sinks (higher density). If it's Big Boy 24' tips we're talking, the opposite applies. Thicker is heavier. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmmm...15 feet.

Well that's no only very helpful, but simple to boot. It's all relative from there.

Even a bottle rocket scientist like me can figure these tip sink rates now.

Thanks Undertaker!
 

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Good Luck Babe

I have all too much experience w/ this problem and no youngster to help me share the blame. My recollection is that all are 15' long. The Type 3 tips are usually a bit lighter in color, ( brownish ), and larger in diameter. The type 6 are darker in color, ( dark brown or grey ), also larger in diameter. The type 8 are darker in color, but unique in their smaller diameter. I believe all are tapered, but often difficult for the eye to discern. The rod end will have the factory loop on it and the fishing end either no loop or your personally applied loop. I've been told that 8 weight through 10 weight lines all share the same sink tips. Having shared that, I know of no way to discriminate a 15' 8 wt type 6 from a 15' 10wt type 6 other than a scale or by fishing them. Give that kid a hug, just because.
 

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IDing sink tips

hisgarness said:
I know of no way to discriminate a 15' 8 wt type 6 from a 15' 10wt type 6 other than a scale or by fishing them. Give that kid a hug, just because.
The scale ($35 digital) is the way to go. Give the kid a hug because he has justified the purchase of said scale. :razz: Find some small zip loc bags and mark them with the grain weights of your tips.

That's one way to go. And it will work for all those 15' tips we have accumulated over the years. Kind of renders that nice tip wallet useless, but it works. :D

Another way to go is to make all of your tips out of the same density stuff (like T-14 or something) but cut them to different lengths. Even in dim light it's easy to determine longer or shorter lengths. T-14 all sinks at the same rate. Longer gets down deeper is all. Hey, even I can figure that out. :Eyecrazy:

If the tips all need to be the same length, like for a Skagit line, then splice or loop them to sections of floating line.
 

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Id

This has been my pet frustration for a long number of years ie fly line (or sink tip) identification once you lose that little paper tag.
I have written to manufacturers, fly fishing magazines and posted on this site about this in the hope that modern technology and manufacturing processes would encourage manufacturers to mark lines/tips with a coding system or small print similar to that on electrical cable. I have seen electrical wire the same thickness as fly lines with legible print on it.
I have all but given up on this plea as it has been continually ignored.
For my light coloured lines I use a permanent marker to put thin rings round them eg 7 rings close together for a 7 weight and so on. Not so easy with the dark sinkers! :(
Mike
 

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Marking Dark Lines

Metallic gold ink marking pens will mark a black line well enough to last several fishing trips, but not an entire season. Gold wears off more easily than black permanent marker ink on light colored lines.

Regarding Rio's 15-foot sink tips, the color is an easy marker. T8 is black black, T6 is dark grey [easily differentiated from T8 black], T3 is brownish. As undertaker said, diameter is also an identifier, within a known set.
 

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Once you know, a pretty easy method to keep things sorted is to use various colors of thread near the back end of the tip - select a color to represent a 7, 8 , 9 or 10 wt etc. and another color to represent sink rate - a small whipped finish band coated with soft tex is pretty durable
 

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Rick J said:
Once you know, a pretty easy method to keep things sorted is to use various colors of thread near the back end of the tip - select a color to represent a 7, 8 , 9 or 10 wt etc. and another color to represent sink rate - a small whipped finish band coated with soft tex is pretty durable
Thanks for another solution to the problem of fly line/sink tip identification. Is there anyone viewing who is associated with fly line manufacture and who can explain why line manufacturers can't or won't permanently mark or code their lines to help us guys out? Is it problems in the manufacturing process or is it down to cost?
Mike:confused:
 

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Clydesider said:
Thanks for another solution to the problem of fly line/sink tip identification. Is there anyone viewing who is associated with fly line manufacture and who can explain why line manufacturers can't or won't permanently mark or code their lines to help us guys out? Is it problems in the manufacturing process or is it down to cost?
Mike:confused:
Clydesider, i got this from the Rio 2005 Catalog:
"Sinking Tips and Shooting Heads, All 15ft interchangeable tips and the new Rio Max 30ft shooting heads are now barcoded and color coded foe easy identifcation. One thick bar represents a five and one thin bar represents a one. Thus, a bar code of one thick bar and four thin bars is a #9tip. Intermediate tips are clear. Loop colors: Type 3 tips yellow, Type 6 tips Gray, Type 8 tips Green"
I hope this will help you:)
 
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