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How often to change braided loops

  • Never

    Votes: 16 32.0%
  • Every year

    Votes: 6 12.0%
  • Every other year

    Votes: 9 18.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 19 38.0%

  • Total voters
    50
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Discussion Starter #1
I know that mono goes bad over time in the sun. When I used to gear fish I would replace mono every year or so. I am not sure how often to change the braided loops that I have put on my fly lines. I haven't yet and no failures, but do not want to loose a big one due to that type of failure.

What is the group expreience, wisdom?
 

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The trick is to make sure you fish often enough that the line wears out before the loops...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
But one has a five year guarantee -

so Rob shouldn't we change before that line wears out? And, with the shorter heads, it is the running line not the head that takes the stress of casting and wears out. The heads should last for a llong time.
 

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Pullin' Thread
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I only change them when one of two things occur: 1) the line cracks near the loop (a rare occurance); or 2) when I get a nick in the Aquaseal coating on the loop (again a rare occurance) because if the Aquaseal is nicked, the looped has been nicked and comprimised. Other than for these two reasons, I never change them. And I fish enougn that I only get 2 at most 3 seasons out of a line before it is wearing out and needs to be replaced.
 

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I guess I am saying I have never had one fail and I don't fix what isn't broken. I figure if it's gonne break it would break when i fet snagged with 15lb maxima tippet and if it does't break then why worry about it?
 

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Actually, I haven't used a braided loop since buying a loop welding kit from Poppy! But when I did use the braided loop/aquaseal system, it was about once a year since it was used quite a bit:saevilw: As a side note, I would very highly recommend a welding kit($30 if I remember correctly). Re-do loops with ease and when you want to turn your full floater into a multi-tip, you have nice smooth welds on the line and tip. They even work well with Rio's t-14/11/8! In fact, I now have some Dragontail shooting line on the back of my 8/9 Delta for a nice color change and mendable running line.

-Zack
 

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For me; the braided loop is generally not the problem. It's usually the fly line right above the connection. The fly line starts to crack and that lets the line hinge. This usually ends up cracking around the whole line exposing the core.

I just cut it back and add another braided loop. It usually lasts about a season or so.
 

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Braided Loop

For me; the braided loop is generally not the problem. It's usually the fly line right above the connection. The fly line starts to crack and that lets the line hinge. This usually ends up cracking around the whole line exposing the core.

I just cut it back and add another braided loop. It usually lasts about a season or so.
Touche, the exact same thing has happened to most of my braided loops over time, using a nail knot or shrink tube. I think the line tends to hinge more at the end of the nail knot, shrink tube area and thus eventually cracking over time. The nail knot or shrink tube also cinches down on the line coating, helping the line to crack in this area also.

I have had the base area of welded loops do the same thing, because that is the hinge area again, I think.

One of the reasons I prefer a core spliced loop if the line has a braided core. The core spliced loop tends to hinge at the core line loop base, not on the line coating. Also, the core spliced loop pulls from the line core, not the line coating. So the line coating is a lot less prone to crack using a core spliced loop.

A core spliced loop also slides through the rod guides easier, no catching, than any fly line loop I have tried.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I use

tying thread to wrap down the braid and coat it with aquaflex. I have had those last for several years without causing the line coat to break like a nail knot or other less flexible methods.
 

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''Speydo-masochist''
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A quick repair to see out a week's fishing [or a season's], if you find the line cracking just beyond the end of the braided loop, is to remove the sleeve & use a whipping [fly -tying thread & bobbin/ holder] then use a clear, thin walled, shrink tube [electrical stores stock 'em] which is sufficiently over length to reach from the end of the fly line beyond the crack at the hinging point onto the undamaged line [& over the whipping]. Add a smear of aquasure [or equivalent] to avoid any ''stepping'' & off you go.
I do a lot of night time fishing for sea-run browns with a 10ft single hander & multi-tip weight forward line, this involves a lot of figure 8 retrieves & sharp angle [narrow loop] over head casting; consequently I wear out a lot of WF # 8wt lines & use this to extend the life of those which are ''knackered'' half way through the second season of use - & I'm not picky, by ''knackered'' I mean exposed core & grooved fingers! OK so now I realise why I like Spey casting with the big rods & full spey lines = minimal stripping!

Regards, Tyke.
 
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