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Hi Everyone,

I'm determined to use way less sinking tips on an upcoming trip to a BC river that's known for aggressive stealhead.

I plan to use fluorocarbon leaders for sunk work and mono leaders for wakers.

Question: What's your formula for both Fluoro and Mono in 15' and 20' lengths? (I'm tried looking for knotless leaders without success).


Specific brands of lines appreciated since stiffness varies considerably.

I'm fishing a 15' and 16' rod with a long belly line.

Thanks in advance,
Preston
 

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I really have no fancy formula, but my principles and build as needed

* prefer DC- seaquar blu, but use as tippet or end of leader, so I keep 15, 12, 10 and 8#. I will retool to older maxima spools.
* prefer maxima chameleon, but if water is clear and bright, then ultragreen
* keep spools in mangrove leader wallet, storing from 30, 25, 20, 15, 12, 10

* tippet is 3 to 5'
* use the heaviest tippet I can for the presentation I want. It might be 12# for a small bunny or 4x for a medium small wet.

* heavy top is selected to match line stiffness
* top 60% is usually the first too

* then transition to length to the size of tippet I want.

So, if I am throwing light on a light line 300 grain on clear water and I want 12' leader, I start saying, I want a 3' tippet, giving me 9' leader

The first will be 4' 25# ultra green
Then 2' 20#
Then 1' 15#, 1' 12#, 1' 10#

Add 3' 8# tippet
 

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15 ft of straight 20lb chameleon maxima and 3-5 ft of flouro for tippet for dries or wets ;)
Geez Bruce, that's way to simple :roll:

Preston, I use to be the guy who would start with #40 or #30 Maxima as a butt and then transition from there. I know better now on these longer lines to step down the butt to #20 ... on the lighter long lines dare I say #15 is my go to butt :D
Tippet usually is anywhere from #12 to #8, but I doubt you'll be using #8 on your trip.


Mike
 

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Hi Everyone,

I'm determined to use way less sinking tips on an upcoming trip to a BC river that's known for aggressive stealhead.

I plan to use fluorocarbon leaders for sunk work and mono leaders for wakers.

Question: What's your formula for both Fluoro and Mono in 15' and 20' lengths? (I'm tried looking for knotless leaders without success).


Specific brands of lines appreciated since stiffness varies considerably.

I'm fishing a 15' and 16' rod with a long belly line.

Thanks in advance,
Preston
makes sense to use fc for the entire length of a leader in conjunction with bigger flies ( 1/0 - heavy hook) or weighted flies - and check the regs on that - otherwise the diff will be minimal with small wets that you could just go with fc for the tippet.

I'm using Mason hard type nylon; 5 feet of 25 # and 10 feet of 20#.
5 to 8 feet of 15# J-Line brand "100% FC" for the tippet.

Red label is the stiff version.
 

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Learn 2 knots well - blood knot and the improved blood knot. The improved blood knot may be necessary if you are doing an aggressive taper down.

I also see nothing wrong with the simplify leader argument that Bruce articulates (starting with Chameleon), as I have also been experimenting with this and seen no issue with it. This is were I have used the improved blood knot, and I will often draw the knot in my lips to reduce heat and friction.

I tie our leaders for the flats (bonefishing), so I am happy to keep my knot skills going infrequently all year.
 

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You should really get your self a silk ferruled leader 12’ then add your desired tippet length to this. I’ve been playing with one lately and I must say they land a dry fly very nicely! Pretty simple thing just grease it up and it will float very well! Or wipe the grease off and you have a very light sink tip. Will throw smaller sized wet flies that aren’t To heavy. Not the best in a strong wind I will say. Worth having one or two in the bag I think. There’s lots of options out there for them. This is just the experience I have had with mine. I have no idea what make it is or anything about it. But I do like it!
 

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I guess I should give my leader formulas ...

Long fine taper or light Spey line leader:

15ft - 7ft of #15, 4ft of #12, 4ft of #10 or #8
20ft - 10ft of #15, 6ft of #12, 4ft of #10 or #8

Stout taper or heavy Spey line leader:

15ft - 7ft of #20, 4ft of #15, 4ft of #12 or #10
20ft - 10ft of #20, 6ft of #12, 4ft of #12 or #10

I usually tie these with Maxima Ultra Green. I sometimes substitute with Maxima Chameleon for windy condition, just really difficult to find the Chameleon in my area.

Word of caution: if you plan to use florocarbon, do not use load leg cinching knots, stick with Double and Triple Surgeons Knots.
I'm not going to explain this here. There are many old threads discussing the issues. Search for peter-sc, you'll find more than you want to know :hihi:

The fine taper leaders are for lines like the old XLT 6/7 and 7/8, or I.G Spey lines up to 9/10. Snowbee 2D's and 3D's fall into that category too. Same with the Beulah Aero Head lines up to 8/9.

I use the stout taper formula for everything else. I.G lines to 11/12, all Drury Impacts and Mackenzie lines. The DT's love the 20ft version and the heavier Gaelforce 15M Extended Spey Heads in #9 and #10 are a match made in heaven with the 15ft version.

For skating heavy hackled flies, I like the 20ft versions of both. Waking flies, I cut off two feet from the butt on the 15ft versions.

When I reference "Long Thin Leader" in my posts, these are the leaders I'm speaking of. The "Fine Taper" leaders will turn over my #1/0 heavy vintage irons and up to a McNeese #2 iron. The "Stout Taper" leader will turn over Dee and Spey flies up to #4/0 Code Irons, no questions asked. These "Long Thin Leaders" will allow my heavy irons to sink quickly. I feel I get a deep, long plane swing ... more than a Type 3 tip, but not more than a Type 6, somewhere in between.


Mike
 

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How are we attaching these various leaders to the line? Depending on the line used either a double surgeons loop or a perfection loop.

Dan
 

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Most of my older model lines don't have a front loop or have since long gone.
I've switched from a Nail Knot to an Albright knot, then a thin coating of Loon UV Knot Sense as a coating. From there the butt section is 12 inches with a Triple Surgeons Loop. All my pre-tied leaders have one foot removed from the overall recipe with Triple Surgeons Loop on the butt. Makes for easy leader swap out. I have become really good at tying a compact Triple Surgeons Loop, so the transition points are not bulky at all. But feel it really doesn't make much of a difference anyways ... we are swinging flies after all :D

Braided mono loops work well too. I have a some on my DT's and Snowbee lines.
I use two Nail Knots on the butt end of the loop connector braid and then coat the knots with Loon UV Knot Sense. Very nice transition.


Mike
 

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I use a Duncan loop knot to attach to line which is basically a nail less nail knot....very versatile knot and then double surgeons knot to attach tippet
 
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Hi Everyone,

I'm determined to use way less sinking tips on an upcoming trip to a BC river that's known for aggressive stealhead.

I plan to use fluorocarbon leaders for sunk work and mono leaders for wakers.

Question: What's your formula for both Fluoro and Mono in 15' and 20' lengths? (I'm tried looking for knotless leaders without success).


Specific brands of lines appreciated since stiffness varies considerably.

I'm fishing a 15' and 16' rod with a long belly line.

Thanks in advance,
Preston
Hi Preston,

I make leaders for fishing weighted flies without sink tips. This may sound off to you but I use: 50 - 40 - 35 - 30 - 25 - 20 - 15

The 50, 40,and 35 pound butt sections I connect with surgeons knots then change to blood knots for the rest.

Section length are whatever seems right to me based on experience. They turn over very well and I always have 2 in my kit.

The butt sounds heavy but will quickly limber up with use. I seldom go below a 15 pound tippet due to what I'm fishing for.

Ard
 

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How are we attaching these various leaders to the line? Depending on the line used either a double surgeons loop or a perfection loop.

Dan
I don't use loop connections for full lines - nail-knot to the line and blood knots to the tippet.

Perfection-loop connections for multi-tip lines.
 

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i use a tie fast tool to make my leaders . cheating , i know , but it does an excellent job . 3 turns on each leg is enough . works with fluoro and mono equally well . then i hit the knots with loon u v and my uv light so that they don't take all day to dry . tippet with a surgeons loop . the tippet breaks long before the leader ever fails .
thanks , jim
 

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Mono and Fluro. in differing diameters dont mix. Fluro. is hard and Mono much softer, that will lead depending on the diameters you use to the fluro pulling through the Mono like a hot knife through butter.
I use tapered leaders in both Mono and Fluro a lot, however I only ever use Fluro to Fluro when fishing Intermediate lines/Heads, tips etc as I want the leader to sink to match the line in question.
However with Mono tapered leaders I will use a tippet of either Mono or Fluro depending on how I'm fishing and how deep the flies needs to be fished.
I use mainly Seaguar 9ft tapered Fluro leaders with a 20lb B.S, or Guideline 12ft tapered Mono leaders cut to 10ft with an 18lb B.S. this lets me use a wide range of tippet strengths and diameters from the same tapered leaders to suit the Flies and tactics being used.
Now to every single tapered leader I knot and glue a 2mm leader ring(Rivererge) to the business end to this the tippet material is knoted.The leaders last ages and ages, however I'm a great fan of 10ft poly's, too, these are rung in exactly the same way.Importantly more or less howewever I'm fishing and whichever leader system I've opted for it keeps the over all leader length the same nigh on most of the time which gives me a consistency to my casting and presentation which I find invaluable.
I try and get my over all leader length slightly longer than the length of the rod(switch and double handers up to 16ft.)
I'm confident with the way I do things from wee hitched tubes on my 11ft 6 weight switch up to big heavy brass tubes on fast sinking heads on the 16ft 11weight and everything in between!, it works, give's good loop anchor and casting and good presentation to boot.
ATB,Yorkie.
 

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"Fluorocarbon is nearly impervious to UV rays. It would take years to break down from the sun, under normal conditions. Most cheaper fluoros will break when they're kinked because the resin is not very pliable, same applies to stiffer fluoros. It will also burn up and break easily if knots aren't wetted and tied properly." Source: Bassresources.com


Does using fluorocarbon leaders and tippets fit with the preferred strategy of minimizing environmental impact? I have used fluorcarbon while fishing for stillwater Pennasks but it did not strike me as being necessary as most chironomid patterns are weighted for example.

I prefer to use floating heads with sinking flies and never feel the urge to use fluorocarbon when chasing steelhead (summer and winter).
 
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