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So, Dana, you actually believe that because you made a promise of confidentiality to Derek Brown about the Spey Driver specs, you're obligated to keep your promise? You have no future in politics!
Your thread got me to thinking about custom-spliced spey lines and their present role in the spey-casting picture. With the excellent variety of lines now available to us out-of-the-box, there may be little need for homemade versions. Splicing custom lines is mentioned on this forum from time to time, but seldom in much detail. Personally, I'm happy to use a factory line if I can find one that fits my rod and my needs. But it's interesting, economical, and somehow more personally involving to do it yourself; even as with tying one's own flies, building one's own rods; handloading one's own ammo, etc.
Way Yin's fascinating descriptions of refining the XLT lines indicates that painstading adjustment of minor parameters can make a big difference. I can believe that that's true for lines intended for ultimate results in the hands of experts. But for those of us whose needs are less demanding, custom-splicing a line isn't that difficult. Here are two that I use. Both are extended belly lines, but for somewhat different applications:
One was designed for my 13-1/2' 8/9 Diamondback; it's also an excellent fit on my Sage 9150. This line is used primarily with sinktips, but can be stripped from the reel and reversed, in under three minutes, to use the floating tip end. From the braided loop at the end of the belly, the floating sections are: 35' 8" of level #10F; 23' 1" of level #10F; 10' 8" of level 9F; and 18' of level/tapered tip of a #8 line. The total length is 87' 3". (As you might guess, some of the odd lengths derive from the fact that that's what I had on hand.) With a 15-foot sink-tip attached, it's 102 feet and a bit. The #8 floating tip turns over leisurely and beautifully. I have a 6-foot leader butt with a Perfection loop at the end attached to the floating tip end.
The other line is my version of a Winter Line, designed for fishing sink-tips with my 16-foot Daiwa Alltmor (which is designated as 10/12, works fine with a DT11 spey line, and was shocked and awed by the 1500 grains of a 10/11 Rio GrandSpey). It was assembled from a long-belly WF12F and a standard DT11F (both Orvis closeouts, which sell every day on eBay, usually for well under $30). The front tip of the WF12F was cut off, leaving 28' 8" of level belly, which was spliced to 56' 4" of level 11 (except for the front 31" which tapers from .078" to .069"). This makes an 85-foot belly; 100 feet with 15-foot sink-tips attached. This belly could be shortened by perhaps ten feet, which would probably make it a perfect fit, weightwise, for the Alltmor. At its present length, it doesn't strain the rod, and easily turns over every tip I've tried, including 15 feet of leadcore.
See what I mean? Simple lines, but effective. And now I'd like to hear from some of you. What lines have you home-built, and how do they work?
 

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loco alto!
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Most of my efforts extend Triangle Taper lines. I've shared this one a bunch of times:

Sage 8150 and new model 7136:
15' WF10F
40' Triangle Taper 8/9 Spey - looped to either:
1) 20' floater triangle taper 8/9 spey
2) 34' floater triangle taper 5/6
3) 15' sink tips

Also a full floater for the 7136, when using small flies, no wind - :chuckle: ha ha
36' WF9F
36' Triangle taper 7/8


both of the lines serve me well, and were made before the new generation of extended belly lines. Thanks to Way and Steve for guidance on these lines
 
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