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Discussion Starter #1
This thread is for those who tape ferrules. Which method is most effective?

I tape roughly 1.5 inches below to 1.5 inches above a joint with one spiral wrap overlapping approximately half the previous wrap. I try to end the wrap on the back side of the rod opposite the snake guides.

Using electrical tape of a different color than the blank works best for me. If I use black, it can be damn hard to find the edge for disassembly in the dark.

Some folks use masking tape; I have not tried it.

Some spiral up, then back down; I have not tried that either.

Some wrap a band below the joint, then wrap a band above the joint, then proceed with one of the above methods. What is your experience with this method?

WHAT WORKS FOR YOU?
 

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Coast2coast Flyfishaholic
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I tape religiously, no matter how well a rod fits at rest it undergoes tremendous torque under load when casting and fishing.

I recently found a fantastic clear tape that had all the right physical characteristics but to your point I fished until dusk and was unable to find the end of the tape! So much for aesthetics.

More recently I have happened upon a very thin, very stretchy black electrical tape that is easy to apply and remove, and leaves very little residue.

I am an angled-overlap spiral, ends away taper as well.
 

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Somebody - possibly Michael Evans I think - recommends the method I use. Basically it involves placing two strips of tape, each about 2-3" long, lengthways across the joint, one on each side of the rod. These are then over-wrapped with a spiral of tape in the conventional way.

This is supposed to give much better resistance to rotation of the ferrule, which is always the danger with spey casts. He was shown this method by a surgeon; apparently something similar is used when setting bones to ensure no movement.
 
J

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I'll second Gardener's method. Since I've been doing it that way I have never had a single ferrule work loose even after two weeks of fishing at a lodge where disassembly is not necessary. Tape it and forget it. Of course, I still check out of habit to see if anything has worked loose, but it never happens if I tape correctly in the first place.
 

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Coast2coast Flyfishaholic
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Yes, I think that was Kush. I should adopt that, makes perfect sense.
 

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Juro,

Per Stadigh told about the 2 strips - it works great. To aid in the removal process I always spiral up then back and I always end the wrap by extending the tag end of the tape out onto the blank. This means I always know where to look to find the end to remove it.
 

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Taping

I found a wide roll of black electrical tape about 2.5 inches wide. It wraps around very well and easy with a few turns. I thinking about buying a cheap pair of pinking scissors which are used in cutting hems for pants and dresses to cut the tape. They make a wavy cut that would be easy to find in the light or at dusk.

My 7136 needs tape regardless. I have found on my 7141 if I'm fishing with the floating line, the fit is so good that I don't need to tape it. It has to be taped with the sinking tips. My 10151 works better with the wide tape and still needs to be check and squeezed a couple of time per hour with the sinking tips.

No tape is required with Bob Meiser's 10'6" two handed switch rods. I don't believe that he taped his spey rods at the Marin show, and they got quite a work out. The ferrule fit on these two rods is the best of any single handle or two handle rod I have owned.
 

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Pullin' Thread
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I always tape, even on my single hand rods. I've thrown the tip of a brand new 9 ft 4 weight I built on a Lamiglas IM700 when they first became available back in the late 80's about 75 feet out in the Missouri River near Craig, MT the first day I fished it. Fortunately, the #18 blue-winged olive paradun's hook caught the tip and I was able to retreive the top section of my new rod. I have taped every rod ever since.

I use a single piece of electrical tape about 2.3 inches long lengthwise on the back side of the ferrule and the spiral wrap tape from top ferrule to below the botton ferrule over this. This has prevented the rod sections from rotating at all. And when I finish the spiral overwrap, I fold some of the tape end under itself. This causes the tape to stick up ever so slightly and makes it very easy to find the end of the tape to remove it. I also tuck a little bit of one end of the lengthwise strip under itself for the same reason.

I tried masking tape once and would never do so again. Far too much tape residue and it is a real pain to remove when it gets wet. I also tried adhesive tape once, it leaves so much residue that I had to wipe the rod off with rubbing alcohol to get it off.
 

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I have been using Gardeners method with electrical tape.

What I find a problem about taping is when I am moving the car around during the day to different access points, it is an additional extra time consuming task to break down the spey each time and place it in the car driving from spot to spot. Remove and redo the tape etc...

I know I now need one of those spey roof type carriers right ?

Not seen one of them in GL country yet, nor many spey casters for that matter.

Pm Out
 

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Yep, if I had a Sage I would also tape religiously and place it in the case at all times. Those are nice rods and so are the prices !

PM Out
 

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I copied this from my post on the beeswax thread:

Would you collectively consider educating me as to how? a properly seated, then spiral taped, ferrule connection loosens to the point of breaking? Some of you might think, if you could see me seat my ferrules, that they were permanently jammed and unmoveable after I'm done, but it's not the case. I can feel pressure fit when I do it, and if I feel I need to tape the joint afterward, I will, but I've never had a ferrule joint loosen or disintegrate after taping - does that make me a exception rather than a rule?

In terms of carrying beeswax, I either melt it to liquid, then pour it into a stopped paper towel or toilet paper roller, let it set up enough to strip, then cut it into dots with a piece of wire, or pour it into a film canister and cap it. Yes, Grampa, it's melted into my vest in the car, too :whoa:

Now, to add to the tape thing: As I said, I've never had a problem with a spiral up over two straight pieces or a spiral up and then down loosening (see above). However - in the suggestion category - how do you guys feel about the rubberized electrician's tape, the stuff which actually feels as if it's made of rubber and stretches and contorts to fit whatever it's wrapped around - in this case, it'd really only create a more flexible constriction around the joint. Pro/Con/Opinion???
 

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Discussion Starter #12
PM-re disassembly of rod for car transport

I copied Simon G's method of disassembly, which is to unspiral the tape almost all the way, then wrap it around itself in a band around one section, and disassemble the joint.

On reassembly it is easy to unwind the tape next to the rod joint and spiral it over the joint. The elasticity of electrical tape makes changes of direction easy.

Let's see, a single motion to change direction and go? Maybe it should be called a "single wrap" or a "single spiral." :hehe:

Using 3M green electrical tape I find that 6 disassemble/reassemble cycles in one day or over several weeks is average life of tape.
----------------------

To others who suggested the vertical tape strip prior to spiral wrapping, many thanks. I will use your method next time out.
 

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Does it make a difference which way you spiral wrap? if you are fishing from the right bank and single speying with the left hand on top should you spiral wrap anti clockwise or clockwise or does it matter at all?

Malcolm
 
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Said tongue-in-cheek I hope! In North America most of us can fish from either or both banks during the course of a day. I can see it now...Cross a bridge and then one feels the need to unwrap and rewrap each ferrule going in the opposite direction. I like that idea Malcolm. It gives one something to do while waiting in line to rotate through a pool.
 

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Technically speaking re: wrapping direction

Technically speaking, remember the term "Coriolanis force" from science? Makes a difference which way water "spins" when flushing a toilet, or emptying a sink, and the direction of the whirlpool? And whether you are north or south of the equator?

Well, if "upstream" is to your right (versus to your left), you should always hold the tape in your right hand, and wind the rod (pointed upstream) on top of the rod, turning the rod with your left hand counterclockwise from butt towards the tip. But if "upstream" is on your left, you are screwed. Go home and take up golf!

And if you believe this gobbledygook and worry about such trivia and minutia rather than concentrating on catching fish, maybe you had better put that expensive rod in a glass case on a wall, buy a cheap rod at WalMart, not worry about taping, and go catch some fish! :hehe: :hehe: :devil:

BobK
 

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I cannot find a tongue in cheek "smilie".
I was thinking you would need four identical setups
1. for single spey left bank
2. for single spey right bank
3.double spey left bank
4. double spey right bank.
Fred you need some more rods.

Malcolm
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Malcolm

Re tape direction: When starting spey casting I did notice rod sections rotating one direction when practice was limied to one bank, so I spiraled the tape in a direction that put the tape under tension resisting rotation in that one direction. It seemed to help.

Then I discovered wax, and the problem disappeared.
 

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Willie Gunn, Bob Pauli

Stop, you are making my head hurt.
:eyecrazy:


However, a young fisher who is a construction project manager, a guy who hires and fires engineers agrees with you.

Since 98% of my spey fishing is River Right, should the tape be wrapped clockwise or counter clockwise? :confused::eyecrazy:
 

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Good answer!!!

And then it doesn't matter whether you are north or south of the equator!:hehe: :hehe: :hehe:

BobK
 
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