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loco alto!
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Discussion Starter #1
I am seeking recommendations on a spey line with 75' - 85' of belly that I can modify as a shorter line for sink tips.

I want to make a line looped to accept tips, where the floating tip is 25'-30' long, and sink tips are 15' long. This difference in length suits my casting preferences for floating vs. sink tip lines. I imagine that such a line would need a long front taper on the floating section, and/or fewer grains on the sink tips.

I know a few candidate lines (XLT, Grandspey, Airflo Traditional, SA Mastery), just curious if people have done this, and whether you were happy with how it turned out. I'm tired of lugging the spare spool around, and I need some confirmation on this approach before I take scissors to a brand new line. Target rods are a Sage 8150 and T&T 1509.

many thanks!
 

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Steve,

I have done this on quite a few lines and have enjoyed the results. I fish an 8/9 Accelerator on my 8150. It is cut back 15' as is the 7/8 GrandSpey for the CND Salar Specialist. The same 15' holds for the 8/9 Midspey. The XLT is the line that requires a longer cut. According to my notes, I cut the 9/10 XLT back 26' and looped it for 15' tips. I would check on here via search as I believe the various XLT line weights have varied cut points.

sinktip
 

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I also do this a fair amount and have used the Grandspey 7/8 and Mastery Spey 8/9 on the Sage 8150. Grandspey is cut at 15 ft to matcfh location of factory loops The 7/8 wasn't available with tips when I bought it perhaps it is now). I cut the mastery at 17ft. I really like the performance of the Mastery Spey just wish it was a bit more durable.

The best method for making a loop that I know of is strip 5 inches of the line's coating and splice a loop with the braided core. However, before making the splice, wrap the core that will form the loop with tying thread to build it up a bit, this will stiffen it up a bit. A little more tying thread at the loop base after the splice is made and another small wrap where the core exited the line before you cut it. Thinly coat the thread with aquaseal and you'll have a loop that is smaller than any of the comercial loops (except perhaps the welded loops) and just a little stiffer than braided loops that have been coated with aquaseal. It performs and looks better than any loop I know of (again except the welded loops).

I know my above instructions are probably convoluted. Perhaps I'll post it in pictures someday in line and loops section.

pescaphile
 

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loco alto!
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Discussion Starter #4
no need to clarify - I've already got favored loops and splice methods. Also shoulda mentioned that I'm not a complete neophyte at this. I've done this with a Triangle Taper spey and it worked great. Looking to repeat that in a longer line.

thanks
 

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Another way to make stiff loop is to insert 20-35 lb maxima( depending on the fly line) into the braided core ( after line's coating removal). Then fold it to form the loop, put small drop of super glue at base of the loop, and in two or three points below the loop to hold braided line with maxima insert together. If you glue everything the connection will be to stiff.
The next step is to wrap joints below the loop with thread, and cover it with aquaseal (polyurethane glue).
The First layer just to soak the thread and several hours later the second layer to form
nice ruber-type coating.
 
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