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Discussion Starter #1
Can a good selection of floating and sinking Polly leaders be used for dry line Steelhead fishing, instead full of mono or fluorocarbon leaders. Isn't this basically the same thing.
 

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The Dude abides
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To answer again, no, not the same. Cast each and you will quickly find a favorite. Poly leaders offer versatility, but if its dry you wish to fish, you will most likely find straight mono easier to cast all day, not to mention cheaper to replace, easier to modify, and accessible anywhere. Every fishing situation requires a new decision, so I carry a few poly leaders, but for purely dry line fishing, its butt section and tippet section, and overall length approx 1.5x rod length, and thats it.
 

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Technically it isn't. But I believe it is still pretty close. You are still going to be messing around changing leaders for different situations rather than being able to do a quick fly change. Also you are using the aid of a sinking leader to get the fly down rather than just the weight of the fly, but I am not sure that is fudging much more than adding weight to the hook.

If you find fishing with sinking leaders pleasent you should do it even if it isn't technically dry line fishing. If your goal is true dry line fishing, you can use the poly leader set up as an intermediary step. I do believe you can use many of the same rod manipulations to get the fly deep and slow with these leaders as you would with a long mono leader.
 

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Good call here but I'll add just a bit.

Technically it isn't. But I believe it is still pretty close. You are still going to be messing around changing leaders for different situations rather than being able to do a quick fly change. Also you are using the aid of a sinking leader to get the fly down rather than just the weight of the fly, but I am not sure that is fudging much more than adding weight to the hook.

If you find fishing with sinking leaders pleasant you should do it even if it isn't technically dry line fishing. If your goal is true dry line fishing, you can use the poly leader set up as an intermediary step. I do believe you can use many of the same rod manipulations to get the fly deep and slow with these leaders as you would with a long mono leader.
Why I 'love' Furled Leaders. Not that hard to make your own, but candidly I'd choose not to fool around. Two very reputable builders here in the West and they have them pre-made in both floating and sinking configurations. If you want something beyond the 'normal builds' they're most happy to accommodate. Only thing that's a 'must' in my opinion is the end of the leader have a 3mm ring to which you attach your tippet.

WORDS OF CAUTION HERE.

Most furled leader numberings are for single hander rods so you need to at least 'two up' to use with a spey. Easy alternative, if doing a 'built for you,' is lay out what rod(s) you'll be using on them on and they will be constructed accordingly. But why a FL? The things will lay out on the water as straight as a yard stick, and ditto the tippet beyond to the fly(s). "Transfer of energy" from line to FL, to tippet, to fly is all positive.:smokin:

Need new tippet, just cut off the old at the ring and tie on a new bit. Whole thing will take you less than 60 seconds. Things can be built using regular (probably Mylar?) thread or mono. The thread one's will sink if not treated with a floatant. Somewhat the same for the mono's after a lot of fishing.

Total length 'all in?' 9 feet to the first fly; with a two fly rig put 2' between flies. Longer really doesn't bring anything to the Party save for extreme low water conditions. (As taught to me by Mark B. of flyfishusa. 'Freddie, what the hell are you using for a leader??' A 15 foot RIO ... he just rolled his eyes and dug into his boat bag and handed me a 9' RIO. Sooo much easier!

fae
 

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Discussion Starter #7
David1123

I mainly use an 11 ft. switch rod. I was thinking about using a 36" Cutthroat dredger leader with 6 ft. of fluorocarbon tippet. How do you think this would work for swinging flies at moderate depts.
 

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Does anyone have any dry line leader recipes.
(previously posted, for a tapered dry line leader)
Butt/Mid section, #40 to #15, Maxima Chameleon

#40 - 4'
#30 - 3'
#25 - 1'
#20 - 1'
#15 - 1'
Tie perfection loops on each end of this Butt/Mid section

Tippet section (Summer), #12 to #8, Maxima Ultragreen

#12 - 6"
#10 - 6"
#8 - 3'
Tie a perfection loop on the #12 section

Tippet section (winter), #12 to #10, Maxima Ultragree

#12 - 1'
#10- 3'
Tie a perfection loop on #12 section.

With the setup above, you can easily change out your tippet sections by looping them on/off. The Butt/Mid section will last at least a season or two.

Another alternative for Winter Dry line fishing, an untapered thin leader for sunk fly fishing:

1' 30# Maxima Chameleon with perfection loops both ends as a transition from the fly line to the thin leader.

8' of 12# Maxima Ultra green with pefection loop on one side.

3-4' of 10# Ultragreen for final tippet section.

For winter sunk fly fishing, either the tapered or untapered leader will turn over. The fly line catapults the heavy fly one way or another anyway. I think the untapered leader sinks the fly more quickly and allows the fly to fish deeper on the swing. I've had winter dry line success with both systems. I tend to use the tapered leader during low water times when I may go between deeper presentations and surface flies.

Todd
 

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Saw/responded to your PM.

I mainly use an 11 ft. switch rod. I was thinking about using a 36" Cutthroat dredger leader with 6 ft. of fluorocarbon tippet. How do you think this would work for swinging flies at moderate depts.
I'd go longer on the FL and shorter on the tippet. As this is to be used on a 2hander these are built differently than those for a single hander rod. For all, http:// www.cutthroatfurledleaders.com/shop-cutthroat-furled-leaders/spey-switch-leaders.html builds FL's for speys and the 'who/why/what/when' info section is a very good read. (Close up the gap in the link above.)

Fred
 
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