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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I apologize if this topic has been previously addressed, I did a bit of searching in the archives but found no results! I have a Winston DBF 15'/9-10 that as a result from the tapped ferules the finish is breaking down. In a fashion that has got me very nervous, In some areas the color from the tape that I have using has become inpregnated in the finish. In other areas the beautiful green patina of the Winston is now what I think is the bare Grey graphite of the blank!
I've contacted the folks at Winston and without seeing the rod they gestured that the ferrules must be cracked for the finish to have failed. But it's apparent at all areas were I'm taping. I see no visible cracks. I'm using a good quality electrical tape that is made by 3M, no residue that I can tell,and really not a very sticky tape.
Has any one had a similar problem with this happening??
Thanks T-290 ::eek:
 

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Pullin' Thread
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I've had it happen to the finish on my big T&T 1611, and it only happened on the lower section. Just like you described, the finish has come off where I tape it; however, it has only come off on the butt section (just below the male ferrule) and not on the second section (the female ferrule end).

I have not worried about it and my rod has been like this for about 5 years now since it has nothing to do with the structural soundness of the rod and once it is put together and taped, it is not visible anyway. Afterall, it is only a paint coating over the graphite to change the color.
 

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the finish on the rod provides no strength at all. your rod is no weaker for lack of finish.. after all you can buy a scott with no finish at all and many of the gear rod manufacturers are even sanding their blanks and not applying finish.. your rod isn't going to break because the tape is peeling off the finish...

one thing you can do to keep your rods looking better is to make sure that the female ends of your ferrules are completely free of any contamination that would scratch the male end, even a fine piece of sand will scratch the finish right off to bear graphite.
 

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JD
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My rods remain taped for long periods of time. I too noticed this deterioration of the finish when I broke them down to travel. And I was rather upset when I first noticed it. But like has been mentioned above, it has no effect on performance. And once re-taped, it has no effect on appearance either. The only thing it effects is resale value.

I have been using regular old electritions tape. And I had been led to believe the new 3M tape was not supposed to do that. But I guess any tape, left on for extended periods, will have an adverse effect on the finish.:(

Rob: I assume you mean bare finish?:razz:
 

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One more reason not to use tape. Use wax and don't overpower your rods and you don't need tape. Overall, tape is just a pain in the neck.
 

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loco alto!
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yeah, twist and torque isn't too bad if yr chucking skagit plugs all day. Just be sure to have your warranty card handy if you plan on moving a longer line for extended periods.

"There are two types of people when it comes to taping: those who do, and those who will." (or something like that, thanks Juro)
 

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OK this is like the oldest and stupidest argument in spey casting. If you like tape, and it works, great, I'm proud of you, and so is everyone else, congratulations on your ability to avoid any and all warranty issues. But I'm telling you I've been going without tape on all my set-ups for something like 10 years now without a single issue....because I don't overpower/overtorque my rods. Heck my ferrules rarely even twist. From my 7 -wt with a floater to my 10-wt with a 300 grain tip. In fact, the only time I ever popped a ferrule was when I was using tape, back in the days before I learned to take it easy casting; the tape has loosened up due to moisture and being together for a few days. So even tape isn't a 100% guarantee, unless you check it every day a couple times a day. To me, that's too much trouble. All I can say is, easing off those big sticks a bit means most folks won't have to tape anymore.

And I don't think anyone can argue that if that dude's winston doesn't have tape on it the tape can't eat through the finish. No tape, no torque = no warranty issues.
 

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I build rods regularly and it KILLS me to think oof the finish being damaged by tape. Iam amazed that some of you never have twisted ferrules; I expect to and just straighten tham when I finish a run. Ferrule wax I tried and had ahell of a time getting the ferrules apart.
 

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Mark,

What SSpey is talking about is a popped or damaged ferrule, not just the hassle of loosening. Under the right (or should I say wrong) circumstances a ferrule will completely explode if it's too loose. Basically you fire out the forward cast off the D and the ferrule - usually the bottom one - just explodes. Sounds like somebody just fired off a shotgun in your ear. Not a pretty sight or sound. So then the idea is to go ahead and tape up the ferrule with hockey tape or electrician's tape to keep them from twisting. This, to me, is a band-aid for the simple fact the rod is being overpowered, no matter what line/rod combination is being used. For the beginning caster it's a good way to go but once a certain level of proficiency is reached I think it's unnecccesary. A lot of people will disagree with me, probably as many as will agree. The only time I would consider taping a ferrule any more is if I had a worn spigot ferrule, or poorly constructed ferrules that won't stay seated, and those a warranty issues anyway, and besides all the rods in my "quiver" are proven performers without any of these problems.

Hope this makes sense.

If my ferrules dont' come apart I just put a pack of ice on the ferrule. It will contract from the temp change in a few seconds and it comes apart. Putting your ferrules together wet will make them hard to come apart, always make sure you put them together dry. Also, if you use wax, you only need a swipe, then wipe it around the ferrule. A little goes a long way..
 

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loco alto!
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bigTJ, as I said above, torque and twist isn't too bad if one's spey casting focuses on windcutters and heads to 85'. And apparently it does, based on your posts here and elsewhere.

When confronted with water where long casts are sometimes needed, and when personal preferences favor long rods and long lines, sinktips and snake rolls, we remain slaves to physics: torque is inevitable.

or do proficient casters like yourself simply avoid situations that create rod torque? :confused:
 

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Ghetto caster
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I experienced the finish coming off from taping as well. I put a thin layer of clear nail polish over the spot and have not had any problems since.
 

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I have not encountered this problem so far but it doesn't surprise me that it would happen. As a rod builder I end up doing a few rod repairs for myself and friends. The durability of the rod finish varies considerably between the different manufacturers. As mentioned above if some finish lifts it is not a structural problem. Often when replacing a guide some small bits of finish will lift exposing the graphite when the old epoxy is removed. This will be covered with the new guide after but the rod will be fine. I wonder how important the time factor is in this. It sounds like the longer you leave the tape on the higher the risk of finish being lifted.

On a separate note I agree with SSpey. When I am on a larger river fishing a longer line my rod will be taped. I don't care how much you back off the power there will be some twisting of your rod when casting larger distances.
 

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Steelhead Dreamer
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One might also consider how the tape is physically removed. That is, if you pull the tape off at a ninety degree angle to the surface of the rod are you not in effect pulling the finish up and away from the rod blank surface. A surface that provides very little "tooth" for the finish to grip in the first place. If on the other hand, you pull the tape off such that it is 180 degrees to the rod finish surface, kind of like the 180 rule in casting, it would seem you are now pulling the finish against itself which would not tend to lift it off of the surface of the rod.

Obviously, the rivers are too high to fish and I have way too much time on my hands. :D

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks All,
I most certainly respect all voices from this site, for in my opinion it's one of the most informative Spey sites going and has the most educated Spey fishers in the world. I really had no intensions of starting an argument about taping vs. waxing! and I do appreciate all views pertaining to this odd situation. Most especially regarding any future damage that will not occur,that was my # 1 and first concern.

I do not own a lot of two handers, so for right now it's my go to and favorite (so many rods to choose,so little time!! something like that) I do use the rod for what it was designed for, so I can get past the cosmetic aspect of the finish. Now it has a developed "character"

And if I keep it in perspective I can always send it back to Winston to have them spruce it up!
Thanks again......T-290
 
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