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Are you from the Sault? I was born and raised there and fished many years in the rapids back in the 70s before it was a destination spot 😜. It was still world class back then, just undiscovered to the rest of the world (except for Earnest Hemmingway who fished it and wrote about it back in the day).
 

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Are you from the Sault? I was born and raised there and fished many years in the rapids back in the 70s before it was a destination spot 😜.
No Frank, only visited to fish. I’m down in South Western Ontario. Would like to go back sometime though, I really enjoyed it.
 

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Non-slip is difficult ...??

Relatively speaking canoe knot it easier but also more than slightly weaker.......
Non slip is harder to tighten down. At least for me, I have to work both the main line and the tag end to get it to cinch properly even with lots of lubrication and especially with fluoro. It also seems harder to get a really small loop with the nonslip.
I will say that I am unsure about relative strength between the two. The nonslip is a pretty strong knot.👍
 

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With 16# test fluorocarbon line or larger (the thicker diameter tippet), I use a Homer Rhodes Loop Knot, no knot failures to date. This is my go to terminal tackle set up for spey. But If I need to go to a smaller dia. tippet for trout, I use the Lefty Kreh non slip loop knot. I will definitely give your knot a try.
 

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Skeena, Alaska, CF Burkheimer, Olson, Teno, Danielsson, Guideline, Nextcast.
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With 16# test fluorocarbon line or larger (the thicker diameter tippet), I use a Homer Rhodes Loop Knot, no knot failures to date. This is my go to terminal tackle set up for spey. But If I need to go to a smaller dia. tippet for trout, I use the Lefty Kreh non slip loop knot. I will definitely give your knot a try.

I had never had failure with Lefty Kreh non slip loop knot. On fluorocarbon Seaguar , Salmono/Steeehad/Trout or Premier 15 lb or less I use 5 turns and 17lb or higher 4 turns.
I have tested how much static weight a given test Salmono/Steeehad/Trout or Premier can hold for at least 10 minutes, what includes line fatigue . Breaking point value is alway higher them "fatigue point"

Salmono/Steelhad/Trout or Premier will hold about 85% of test weight for at least 10 minutes often for 20-25 minutes , where breaking point is in 92-95% o the advertised test. Of course we rarely put more tension than 35% or so.

True diameter of 17 lb Seaguar , Salmon/Steelhead/Trout is 0.0140". The real diameter ( not fake on the label) of 12 lb Maxima is 0.0155"

True iameter of 20 lb Seaguar , Salmon/Steeelhad/Trout is 0.0160". The real diameter ( not fake on the label) of 15 lb Maxima is 0.0165"

True Diameter of 20 lb Seaguar Premier is 0.0150"

All Seaguar lines have true diameter value on the label.

In the end it is all about diameter, as often rocks can weaken the line. On the main Skeena it is always 20 lb for Steelhead.
On tributary 17 lb .

BTW, maxima 10 lb true diameter is 0.0145" NOT 0.012"





 

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I had never had failure with Lefty Kreh non slip loop knot. On fluorocarbon Seaguar , Salmono/Steeehad/Trout or Premier 15 lb or less I use 5 turns and 17lb or higher 4 turns.
I have tested how much static weight a given test Salmono/Steeehad/Trout or Premier can hold for at least 10 minutes, what includes line fatigue . Breaking point value is alway higher them "fatigue point"

Salmono/Steelhad/Trout or Premier will hold about 85% of test weight for at least 10 minutes often for 20-25 minutes , where breaking point is in 92-95% o the advertised test. Of course we rarely put more tension than 35% or so.

True diameter of 17 lb Seaguar , Salmon/Steelhead/Trout is 0.0140". The real diameter ( not fake on the label) of 12 lb Maxima is 0.0155"

True iameter of 20 lb Seaguar , Salmon/Steeelhad/Trout is 0.0160". The real diameter ( not fake on the label) of 15 lb Maxima is 0.0165"

True Diameter of 20 lb Seaguar Premier is 0.0150"

All Seaguar lines have true diameter value on the label.

In the end it is all about diameter, as often rocks can weaken the line. On the main Skeena it is always 20 lb for Steelhead.
On tributary 17 lb .

BTW, maxima 10 lb true diameter is 0.0145" NOT 0.012"
Thanks for that input. I have not gone that in depth on checking tippet material. I have been using the RIO .013 dia. material. It has held up well, but I switch it out often. I will try the Seaguar SST .014 tippet based on that info.
 

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Skeena, Alaska, CF Burkheimer, Olson, Teno, Danielsson, Guideline, Nextcast.
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choose 17 lb. and 100 m spool cost only $ 12 .........



Seaguar is made by Japanese chemical company Kureha which came in 70's with idea of using PVDF ( Polyvinylidene fluoride) for fishing line. Considering a very high stability of PVDF on sun ( UV) and resistance to oxidation, there is no measurable drop in strength even after many, many month of direct sun exposure. A known property of PVDF.

As you know it also has density around 1.8 g/cm3 , like a typical intermediate material used for tips.

I personally would not touch anything else then Seaguar.

Rio is fine , but I do not know where they buy it. Obviously they do not make it, specially that handling fluorinated monomer like difluoroethylene requires a special set up, and safety procedures what would be financially prohibited. Even if exactly procedure for polymerization can be known, some fine details known only to manufacturer have huge impact on property/quality of the final product.
 

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I had never had failure with Lefty Kreh non slip loop knot. On fluorocarbon Seaguar , Salmono/Steeehad/Trout or Premier 15 lb or less I use 5 turns and 17lb or higher 4 turns.
I have tested how much static weight a given test Salmono/Steeehad/Trout or Premier can hold for at least 10 minutes, what includes line fatigue . Breaking point value is alway higher them "fatigue point"

Salmono/Steelhad/Trout or Premier will hold about 85% of test weight for at least 10 minutes often for 20-25 minutes , where breaking point is in 92-95% o the advertised test. Of course we rarely put more tension than 35% or so.

True diameter of 17 lb Seaguar , Salmon/Steelhead/Trout is 0.0140". The real diameter ( not fake on the label) of 12 lb Maxima is 0.0155"

True iameter of 20 lb Seaguar , Salmon/Steeelhad/Trout is 0.0160". The real diameter ( not fake on the label) of 15 lb Maxima is 0.0165"

True Diameter of 20 lb Seaguar Premier is 0.0150"

All Seaguar lines have true diameter value on the label.

In the end it is all about diameter, as often rocks can weaken the line. On the main Skeena it is always 20 lb for Steelhead.
On tributary 17 lb .

BTW, maxima 10 lb true diameter is 0.0145" NOT 0.012"
How do you tighten down the Lefty Kreh knot and how do you control loop size? Those two things give me trouble with that knot.
 

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How do you tighten down the Lefty Kreh knot and how do you control loop size? Those two things give me trouble with that knot.
tying lefty kreh loop

Here is a good representation of the process, shown on thick line. I try to keep overhand knot as small and tight as possible, and then using hook make loop of your choice. If it is loop for making loop to loop connection,connection,useuse some narrow, stiff tool made from hard plastic or metal. Once you are set and line is well lubricated with plenty of saliva hold hook ( or metal toll) in one hand, the main line in the other hand applying minor tension, weak enough NOT to tighten the knot . Then grab gently with your teeth the tag and pull with moderate tension to set loop size. Finally slowly and steady pull in opposite direction loop and main line.

To get max . strength on fluorocarbon line pulling should take 4-5 seconds until you get about 50% of test tension and then hold fo r4-5 more seconds.

You can made even 6 mm ( 0.25") loop.
 

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How do you tighten down the Lefty Kreh knot and how do you control loop size? Those two things give me trouble with that knot.
Tie the overhand knot around your forceps, tie the knot as you currently do, then pull the tag end of the line through the overhand knot using your forceps in the normal fashion with sufficient lube. That should solve your loop size problem.
 
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