Bougle issue

7444 Views 35 Replies 17 Participants Last post by sinktip, Dec 11, 2014

Bignap

Discussion Starter · Dec 10, 2014

I purchased one of the new Hardy Bougle reels last spring, one if my favorite Hardy's by far, beautiful looking reel and it performs great. While up on the Salmon river this past Monday, I was fishing in some pretty cold temps 22 in the am but never got above 28 in the afternoon. Ice wasn't much of a problem unless the reel got wet. As I was casting suddenly my spool flew off the reel as did the winding plate and handle.... Wtf I freaked as I was in waist deep water and watch my handle sink and rool down river as my spool did the same rolling down with my running line flying off. Ugh I had to go in and grab both as I tried to use my Feet but I didn't want to destroy the finish on the reel so up to my armpit I go hand first lol it sucked ! I did get both back thank god. Once I got out if the river I noticed the center screw, it had broken off at the head and snapped! Has anyone experienced this in cold temps? As I couldn't believe it broke in half.

21 - 36 of 36 Posts

Back Eddy

· #21 · Dec 11, 2014

Seems Strange not to have a rep

From Hardy on the site that can pitch in here, seems like a technical issue. Was the Bougle built to convert or did someone figure out you can out of convienence without exploring potential issues. much like things in life. Is there instructions to convert in the packaging, is it sold with the purpose of converting, at the price of these reels if it is it is Hardy's problem

''Just my thoughts"

Bignap

Discussion Starter · #22 · Dec 11, 2014

Hardy

I spoke on the phone with Hardy yest, looks like I have to send it in so they can tap the rest of the screw out, otherwise I'd be ok with just getting another screw.

fish0n4evr

· #23 · Dec 11, 2014

If there isn't enough screw to get a vice-grip on it - it will have to be tapped. You might get a replacement screw from Arch or Hardy - but you don't have to send it in. Anyone with a drill-press can do this for you. Too easy.

middlecalf

· #24 · Dec 11, 2014

I asked the questions I did because I've read about these screws breaking in other posts(on RHW perfects used LH - funny, don't hear about LHW perfects used RH cuz I guess nobody does that!). There is no reason a screw with sufficient tensile strength couldn't be used that would at least prevent the screw from breaking. But then that might result in damage to the winding plate or spool or spindle or something else of more importance. I'm only guessing, but I'm thinking that a low tensile-strength screw is used (probably cast) principally to prevent damage to other parts of the real, a fail-safe design by Hardy.

Stumpy

· #25 · Dec 11, 2014

What about using light/medium hold Loctite on the screw in question?

inland

· #26 · Dec 11, 2014

Yes the reels are designed to be LH or RH.

Rolf is also correct when the reel is set up in LH. That puts all the pressure on the lock screw as the spool wants to unscrew itself with a fish on. Best to keep any additional manual drag on the spool itself.

Have used several Bougles over the years, all in LH mode with nary a problem. The nickel silver screw is a weak point, yet it shouldn't be that weak. Make sure the spool is TIGHT before screwing down the setscrew. Wind the plate holding the spool until it is tight, back off a quarter turn or so, CLAMP the spool with the opposite hand and then STAB the winding handle to TIGHT. This will get a little more torque where it counts. Lastly DO NOT over tighten the setscrew for they are weakened and will easily shear if you do. Just needs to be snugly tight, not man tight. If the spool isn't TIGHT to the shaft threads it gives it a running start (as it ever so slightly loosens) into the setscrew, putting ALL the pressure on the tiny screw. And then you are screwed.

316 stainless is quite a bit stronger than nickel silver for this purpose.

You would have to loctite the shaft threads/spool to make any difference. I wouldn't do it and don't feel it is needed as long as you get the spool on TIGHT before the setscrew. Blue loctite isn't strong enough to make any meaningful difference to the holding properties of the spool to the shaft. Red would get the job done just fine. Would require you to bake the reel at 325 degrees for a short time so you can get the spool off again. Loctite on the setscrew is not needed.

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Bignap

Discussion Starter · #27 · Dec 11, 2014

True

fish0n4evr said:
If there isn't enough screw to get a vice-grip on it - it will have to be tapped. You might get a replacement screw from Arch or Hardy - but you don't have to send it in. Anyone with a drill-press can do this for you. Too easy.

You're right I guess that makes sense, but what do I kno I'm just a dumb painter lol.

inland

· #28 · Dec 11, 2014

LH threads on the screw. Twist drills run clockwise and doing it by hand (if you are real careful) should back it out easily. Just take the spool off first in case things slip so the drill doesn't go for a walk down your spool or frame. Use a small center punch, making sure the winding plate is very well protected and supported by the very center of the plate...a tiny tap will be enough to get a divot for your drill. Should back out quite easily. Or back out enough to get pliers on it. It isn't seized in there, the head just twisted off.

fish0n4evr

· #29 · Dec 11, 2014

Bignap said:
You're right I guess that makes sense, but what do I kno I'm just a dumb painter lol.

I don't know - that just the route I would've taken. You shouldn't have to go that long without the reel is what I wanted to get across. The screws are soft like already mentioned. Hopefully it isn't glued in-place and it comes out easily. Those are amongst the nicest of fishing reels out there - guess I don't have to advice against fishing it as is ...

Back Eddy

· #30 · Dec 11, 2014

Great reels

Bad design

inland said:
Yes the reels are designed to be LH or RH.

Rolf is also correct when the reel is set up in LH. That puts all the pressure on the lock screw as the spool wants to unscrew itself with a fish on. Best to keep any additional manual drag on the spool itself.

Have used several Bougles over the years, all in LH mode with nary a problem. The nickel silver screw is a weak point, yet it shouldn't be that weak. Make sure the spool is TIGHT before screwing down the setscrew. Wind the plate holding the spool until it is tight, back off a quarter turn or so, CLAMP the spool with the opposite hand and then STAB the winding handle to TIGHT. This will get a little more torque where it counts. Lastly DO NOT over tighten the setscrew for they are weakened and will easily shear if you do. Just needs to be snugly tight, not man tight. If the spool isn't TIGHT to the shaft threads it gives it a running start (as it ever so slightly loosens) into the setscrew, putting ALL the pressure on the tiny screw. And then you are screwed.

316 stainless is quite a bit stronger than nickel silver for this purpose.

You would have to loctite the shaft threads/spool to make any difference. I wouldn't do it and don't feel it is needed as long as you get the spool on TIGHT before the setscrew. Blue loctite isn't strong enough to make any meaningful difference to the holding properties of the spool to the shaft. Red would get the job done just fine. Would require you to bake the reel at 325 degrees for a short time so you can get the spool off again. Loctite on the setscrew is not needed.

inland

· #31 · Dec 11, 2014

Yeah its so bad it has only been around for about 120 years. Maybe bad use of materials, ingenious design.

Back Eddy

· #32 · Dec 11, 2014

There is no doubt

However with the number of issues relating to the same cause one would think it would have been corrected.

I am thinking it was designed not to be converted.

glcaddis

· #33 · Dec 11, 2014

Salmon 2

I don't think it could, because the design is totally different. The solid plate on the #2 cannot be "...backed-off" the reel. That seems to be the problem being discussed here. I reel my Marquis left-handed and all my lightweights also. These reels all use the same basic design and I've never had a problem.

fish0n4evr

· #34 · Dec 11, 2014

One thing for sure - definitely not typical of the reels.

Bignap

Discussion Starter · #35 · Dec 11, 2014

fish0n4evr said:
I don't know - that just the route I would've taken. You shouldn't have to go that long without the reel is what I wanted to get across. The screws are soft like already mentioned. Hopefully it isn't glued in-place and it comes out easily. Those are amongst the nicest of fishing reels out there - guess I don't have to advice against fishing it as is ...

I love fishing the Hardys, Bougle is my favorite . my buddies we all fish them and it gets a little crazy sometimes 3 guys pulling line off classics

sinktip

· #36 · Dec 11, 2014

I have to question the post that referenced "the number of issues". This comes up on the site once every couple of years at most. How many Perfects and Bougles are out there? Thousands.

I would be willing to bet that far, far more screws have been snapped off by guys tightening when they thought they were loosening due to left hand threads then because the reel is used left hand wind.

One other comment on screw extraction. William covered it well with the drill press post. I would add if the threads don't back out with the drill, once you have drilled a small hole in the center of the sheared screw, thread a small diameter sheet metal screw into the hole. The threads on the screw will bite and a screw driver will give you the torque to back the broken piece right out.

I picked up a pre-war 3 1/2" a number of years ago off e-bay. It had a sheared off screw and a crazed handle that wouldn't turn. Think I got it for $125. Did the drill and screw trick, replaced the screw with one from Highfields, shot some Teflon lube on the handle and I have used it ever since. :smokin:

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