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sushiyummy & C&R
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone converted the above in 7# to a spey? I am curious how to solve the following:
1. Any ideas how to make the 3-1/2" fighting butt into a spey butt?
2. How to stop the fighting butt from unscrewing without resorting to jamming the threads (would like to leave it as a removable butt).

Also, I just bought a Type 5 full sinking line for skagit like casting. It's a 10 weight with 310 gr for the first 35'. Do you think this would work?

Appreciate your insight to a newbie question.
 

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I think you might struggle with that rod for true spey casting. You can do some shorter casts, on the order of 40-50 feet or so, to get the "hang" of it. A snap-t can be a lot of fun with a single hander. For this kind of thing I wouldn't modify the rod, just hang onto the smaller handle with a couple fingers, it's all you need. Then when you get some extra cash pick up an inexpensive 14 foot 8 weight or something that fits your needs. I've seen complete outfits, used, for around $400 or less for sale recently. There really isn't any comparison between that 10-footer and a rod designed for spey casts.

A type 5 full sinking line is probably going to be really tough for skagit casting. The least expensive route is to make one out of a DT line, it's not that complicated pm me if you want some advice on fly lines.

If you do decide to modify that rod, it might be a good idea to check with Orivs first to see if modifications have any implications for the rod's warranty.
 

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Rodbuilder
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Anyone converted Orvis 10' TLS as spey

The rod is designed for single hand overhead casting,I don't think it would stand up to the stresses of true spey casting. Spey casting creates alot if twisting/torque on the rod much differently than overhead casting. If you want to try don't go too heavy with the line. To keep the lower grip from unscrewing, I assume you mean during the cast, try some tape. I'm not familiar with the grip setup, are the reelseat external threads exposed when the grip is removed, if so you may be able to add a knurled lockup nut and back it down (like a jam nut) on the grip. If you modify the rod Orvis will void the warranty, guaranteed. Been there done that. Best route, get a true 2 hander, it's the tool for the job.
Greg
 

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Orvis TLS Lower Grip

I had one of those rods for a while. Not really a "spey" type rod. Very tippy action that did not like sinking lines. It had a horrible time pulling 270gr Type III heads out. Much better with a floating line and skaters for summer run fish. Makes a nifty float tube rod for overhead two-handed casting.

That removable grip has an aluminum insert running about 2/3 the way through it. Cut off the cork from the threaded insert. (Or get another one from Pacific Bay to canabalize) Then using a piece of rod blank, make an extension for the fighting butt usually 4-6 inches. You should be able to find a section of blank with the same internal diameter as the aluminum stubs OD. Use rod building/kevlar thread to wrap/reinforce the blank where it fits over the aluminum stub. Assemble and slather the whole thing in rod building epoxy to keep it in one piece.

You can either buy a pre-made lower grip, or get cork rings and shape your own. Just slip them down the extension and glue in place. If you use cork rings you will need to make a press/clamp to hold them snugly together while gluing.

To fix the loose threads on the fighting butt, go to a hardware store and get a thicker O-ring than the one on the butt. You want the O-ring to bulge slightly out of the groove it sits in. This will give you just enough resistance to keep the butt in place, and still easily remove it.

Best Regards,
Bill
 

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sushiyummy & C&R
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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Thanks Gents for the response. Your quick response and thoughts are appreciated.

Bill, would you have a link you can share I can purchase the said bottom handle components from? Your instructions were clear and helpful, tempting me into making it DIY. I like your oversize O ring idea but upsizing ring diameter can be constrained by the ring channel width (typically same dimension as depth). Too bad they don't make premade bottom handle that simply screws in and self locks or with locking nut.

Greg and 7141-4, I understand your concerns about the action of the rod. Prior to reaching this juncture, I had thrown some home made 450 grain skagit head with 12' T14 sink tip on this rod, totalling 618 grain. Using Snap T and 'Half out and Go', I managed to shoot 20-30 feet, sufficient for small/ med river work here in MI. The rod did show minor overloading, thus making me believe the 310 grain Type 5 head may avoid overloading but enough mass to throw water borne anchor.

With the 310 gr 10# Type 5 mentioned above, I think a a Snake roll with a short pause for a sunken air borne anchor may be the ticket. But won't know until it arrives in the mail and the subfreezing temps change.

If it doesnot work, I have the option to return the line to Orvis for a regular 7# Type 5 for single handed casting.

What started all this? I lost a 15' Type 5 Shooting Head trying to unsnag from bottom structure. Orvis is selling out the DC Type 5 sinking lines for $24 but they only start in 7 weight. I remember how tired my casting arm got casting just 30' Type 5 shooting head in 5 weight and decided to spey it to conserve arm and not rely on Scotch for dulling the pain. I will still be using the Galloup's Jerk-Strip method with this Spey arrangement.

I also use a 13' 8 weight but it's an overkill to the many rivers here in MI (except for the Muskegon, Manistee, and other broader rivers). Plus I like lighter gear for a full day's fishing.

Let me know if there's more information before I proceed. Thanks.
 

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Here's what I did...

BRRRR, huh??

I may have sent you these already, but will attach a photo (if I can get it to work out..)

To make the cork part of the lower handles...

Longer one.. Is a fighting butt glued to a handle that was on sale at Cabelas in Dundee. cut the handle where the diam is the same as the fighting butt (1.5 ins). I threaded them onto 1/4 threaded rod and glued em. After dry, I spun the thing in the chuck of a 3/8 cordless drill and sanded the junction smooth.

Shorter one...is a small cork part that was also at Cabelas for 3.99. Then, I glued 2 composite cork rings on one end, one on the other. Held them together whilst drying on the 1/4" rod with washers and bolts on each end...then spun in the same "Rube Golberg-style lathe" with the drill.

Have tried a few different methods for adding the extensions to the rods, but both extensions have 1/4 threaded rod sticking out of them that screw into female threads that are in the handles. I modified 3 of my travel rods -- 5 or 6 piece 9 footers that will fit in my carryon luggage and have been figuring out which ones will Spey OK and how they hold up. I have a few regular fighting butts on 1/4" rod that I can screw in to make it a normal length.

MOJO--So far the "pig-putty" one is holding up well!

Scott
 

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sushiyummy & C&R
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Scott. Thanks for the pic and the explanation. Yes, I rec'd the pic earlier but now I understand how to you made them.

Lets get together one day when the freeze is over and test out your 9 foot versions. I have made a Skagit type prototype that you can increase from 350 gr to 650 gr on the same line. This way you can find the right mass to load your rod.
 

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I did a modification to a Shimano surf spin rod 9 feet long with a load range of 25 to 60g, like 300 to 925gns, around 18 weight tops, and its not bad to cast two hands, impossible one hand but its tough, practically unbreakable and cost the magic figure of 150 buks Oz all up. Casts a big heads, like 550 gns up to 700gns and it gets around 90 feet with one backcast.
Shimano have a set of surf rods in the 9/10 feet with one of those adjustable reel seats. Called a Tiralejo surf spin. loads 1 to 3 ounces, so they will huck a very big head two handed. They cose aroung 220us. Have a look, and give one a wave around. MaxG.
 

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they do make handles !

Hi Sush, screw in handles are made, the big problem is the internal diameter of your rod blank. Contact the guys at MUDHOLE they will put you wright. On the warranty front once you start any mods , ALL BETS ARE OFF . Simple Pacific bay screw ins might fit , But hand drill will be good enough to sand handle. PM me if you need any help.

Brian.
 
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