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fly fisher 'til it's over
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1,162 Posts
You've dressed that fly wonderfully! The ribbing is nicely done, the hackles flow nicely from one end to the other, and the colors are very striking.

Nice work!
 

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Matt Arciaga
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835 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You've dressed that fly wonderfully! The ribbing is nicely done, the hackles flow nicely from one end to the other, and the colors are very striking.

Nice work!
Why thank you, it only took me 5 tries, and I still left the red Himalaya Pheasant crest out. This one is going to the dingle to swing at an undisclosed location.....:devil:
 

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Matt Arciaga
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835 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
cool fly. the tail and wing still seem way to big. look at the plate the wing end righ pass hook bend
This is my style for the pattern, Im really not trying to copy an illustration. this will fish no doubt, what it was intended to do.
 

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113 Posts
How do you get the head so nice? I struggle with keeping my heads short and often have to elongate them because the thread falls off
 

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519 Posts
Blackers....

That is a beautiful flee; its' proportions have their own logic.
You ought to show that to Bob Fransden who wrote "A Blacker Companion"; he ties many of the repro patterns on Colin Innes' site. He's over on the Classic Fly Tying site-friendly, approachable, fellow. I'm sure he'd love to see it...
Great job as with all your dressings.

Tom
 

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Matt Arciaga
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835 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
How do you get the head so nice? I struggle with keeping my heads short and often have to elongate them because the thread falls off
I do not cut the stems of any wings until I'm done with the back 80-90% of the head. I paint my white thread with black sharpie and brushable head cement and take wraps very carefully. Once you are happy with 80-90% of the shape and size wrap backwards whip finish, bit before you tighten the whip finish again paint the thread once more in the tail end out side the whip with head cement and cinch down. This will pull head cement through the cinch. Let sit for a few minutes and cut you thread. From here use cuticle nippers to get as close as possible to the end of your head, a scalpel to finish off the remainder of the junk and a trash bodkin red hot will cauterize the remainder and will allow you to shape the front a touch better, after you finish that, use black marker color the face of the stems, and slowly build the front of the head to the blunt taper you see here. Its not against the law to use some UV epoxy to make the very front blunt cap so to speak. After that just light coats of head cement, go thin... And if you screw it up, the old scalpel or red hot bodkin works again.
 

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Matt Arciaga
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835 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
That is a beautiful flee; its' proportions have their own logic.
You ought to show that to Bob Fransden who wrote "A Blacker Companion"; he ties many of the repro patterns on Colin Innes' site. He's over on the Classic Fly Tying site-friendly, approachable, fellow. I'm sure he'd love to see it...
Great job as with all your dressings.

Tom
Facebook friends with both Bob and Colin, have had tons of dialog with Bob when I was on the traditional spey bit. We've talked about this fly but we disagree when it comes to this pattern. The number one area being the joints with black silk rather than herl as he describes in his book. No matter though its just interpretation.
 
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