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Discussion Starter #1
I had my heart set on a 11'6 sage one switch (and I'll probably still get it) but now this opportunity has arisen and I'll like to find a proven taper that will chuck a 6wt switch line.

I muck about making a few fly fishing accessories but know very little in the way of making rods.

does anyone have a suggestion?


cheers lads,
shawn
 

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Hi Shawn, the first question is what you mean by proven -- there are a few rod makers who made short 2-handers in light line classes (e.g. Cane caster and a few others). I doubt that from a given taper there have been built more than a handful of rods. Ancient tapers are not available in light classes and were mostly made for overhead casting.
So, either you trust your rodmaker to make/design you a nice rod or ask one of the experienced makers -- however, bamboo rods are really nice fishing and casting tools in these light and short classes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I suppose what I mean by proven is having a taper that will handle the torsion of spey style casting at a short length (11'6) and a taper that someone has tried or truly believes in a taper that will confidently chuck the switch chucker line.

cheers mate,
shawn
 

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No need to worry about "the torsion of spey casting". It is a non issue. A 6 weight is not that big of a rod. Bamboo is tougher than you might think.

What has your maker suggested? Has your maker made two handed rods? If he has he should be able to advise you on the specifics of a rod to do what you want it to do. There are some very nice older tpers like the Paynes or F. E. Thomas two-handed rods that can be reduced in size to meet your demands.

Good luck with your search. You will enjoy fishing with a cane two-handed rod.

Jerry
 

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spliced or ferruled?

the torsion, as I understand it, is less of an issue with a spliced joint

I'll agree with the advise above- if you have a knowledgeable maker- tell him the basics of what you want a leave the details to him -
 

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Discussion Starter #6
a few answers...

he's suggested I look at a hardy wye taper as a start.
I thought I'd ask here as we're only two people with (so far) one idea.

I do not believe he has made a two handed rod before, we live in australia... but if I can build a four bedroom house in a valley I can build an eight bedroom house on a hill. (and I have)
I have every confidence in his abilities and his maths.
I've seen his work and it is impeccable.

and I'd like it furled... simply for the convenience.



like I said, I was just looking for some advice from someone who had some experience in these size and weighted bamboo rods.

I appreciate your help fellas,
cheers,
shawn
 

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G'day Shawn.

Congrats on what sounds like a cool and fun project with your mate. What is his name by the way? Nick? Boris? Anyway... I have some experience with rods in this line weight and length and here are a few things for you guys to kick around/consider....
Based on the line you wish to cast and the weight you stated (Rio Switch Chucker #6 420 Grains (I love Rio lines but this may be the worst fly line name ever)) You may wish to keep your rod length closer to 11' rather than 11'6". Not only will you end up with a lighter more balanced rod but you will be able to achieve a rod with a more positive initial lift and a more robust tip (a good thing). It has been my experience that bamboo rods "feel" longer than they measure in comparison to plastic rods so don't get too caught up in a given length, say 11'6", because it is what most of the graphite makers are commonly offering in that line class..... different materials, different rules.

As far as a taper to work off or use as an example, the Wye is a good one and spey casts well but will require a lot of reworking to drop it into this length and line weight. I might suggest as an easier starting point Bill Warra's 12'6" #6 taper listed in David Ray's section on hexrod (if one was to increase this rod to a #7 line and compact the taper to 11'-11'3" I think they might end up with a nice stick for that line) or look at the Sharpes 12' #8 taper and decrease the line weight to a #6 and drop 1' off the rod for an 11'er. Another thing to keep in mind is not to have too light of a tip or too strong of a butt, while this style of long rod overhead casts very well.... it leaves a lot to be desired as a tool for 2 handed spey style casting. On a #6 line a tip dimension of 0.084-0.094" is a good starting point or a safe bet.

Good luck and have fun! You will certainly enjoy fishing with your new rod whatever you fellas end up making!

Cheers and tight lines.
James
 

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Hi folks and thanks James, Jerry & Wiscoy for your comments.

I'm the fellow who has put their hand up to make this rod for Shawn.
It's going to be a challenge for me, having built only single handers so far.

BTW, Shawn is very modest with his "Fly fishing accessories", He is an exceptional fly dresser, brilliant carpenter and makes wonderful carved fly boxes. I know one day he will get the Rod building bug himself and his work will be outstanding.

I've taken your advise James and run the numbers for the Warra with a reduction in length to 11'3" through Hexrod. Leaving it as a 6wt didn't show the mid section strength as you pointed out but when upped to a 7wt the graph shows me the controlled power would be in the mid section, which from my limited knowledge, would provide both power in the cast as well as good "lifting" capacity when the line is anchored. Hope that my terms makes sense.

The graph also shows me that there is, what I would term, a small but distinct "hinge" at both ends of the mid section (42" & 89" ). Now I purposely build this type of hinge into my single handed rods as I do a lot of roll casting. though my rods only have one hinge in mid-deep butt ala Cattanach.

My question is... will having a second hinge (albeit slight) at the 42" mark benefit the action for switch casting, or should I level this out a bit more?

Your help is greatly appreciated.
Dave B
 

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Dave.

Email me your numbers and I will have a looky loo for you. I am not sure that I follow what you are explaining.

[email protected]

Cheers.
James
 

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Hi, one warning if you like -- multiple hinges are good for unpredictable casting behaviour -- generating higher frequency oscillations resulting in wavy lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
result!

well this is working out quite nicely for me...

nice change,
cheers,

shawn
 
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