Looking to buy / build a 4wt switch on a limited budget, for the up coming trout season. Any suggestions on blanks or manufactures?
I've looked at UHM-12 blanks, but have no experience with the action of these blanks. Anyone build a switch for trout with some advise?
Seems I have a very different approach to this than most.
I took a 5wt. single hand rod blank 10'5" and added in to the butt 20" of stiff rod blank scrap.The rod length is 11' 9" now. The joint is just ahead of the reel seat.My forward hand when casting is 9" above the joint and when playing a fish my forward hand is about 3" into the original rod.There is no chance of damaging the "actual" rod.
Very basic rod building...no degree needed.
Where I differ from ALL of the other responses is with my line.
I took a 4DT,cut it at 30' and spliced in the level line from a 2wf.Total length of line around 75'.
I don't use any type of sinking leaders or tips,for me and my style its all about the cast placement and the mend.
This is my trout spey rod.I fish a team of 3 flies #10-#16,also some stoneflies upto #6 2x. Standard tapered leader and 3' of tippet that the team is tyed onto.
Sometimes I fish upstream,sometimes I fish across,sometimes I swing.It all depends how I want to present to a lie?lye?
This rod and line combination with no concentration has let me,when desired, get my ENTIRE line cast out upto about 20' into my backing.
Mainly I work in to 35' - 45' range of line on the water.
This outfit :blank,reel seat,guides,cork,thread,lines cost me $62.
My opinion is that anything you want to do with any rod can be done as long as you have a natural feel for rhythm.:Eyecrazy: