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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking to buy / build a 4wt switch on a limited budget, for the up coming trout season. Any suggestions on blanks or manufactures?

I've looked at UHM-12 blanks, but have no experience with the action of these blanks. Anyone build a switch for trout with some advise?
 

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might check in with Gary Anderson - he has some of the best light speys around. But if you want to build your own the Anglers Roost blanks are pretty sweet. You can go as light a 2/3 wt - the 11' 2/3 is a real trouter but quite slow.
 

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Hello,

I have built a light switch on a UHM13 10 ft #4 blank.

It's a nice rod - it cast a 6 weight single hand line or a 320 grains at 8.2 meters shooting head;

Hope this helps.
 

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Not sure what exactly the budget is but, I fished an Echo SR 4wt almost exclusively this year for trout and I have been very pleased. Throws a 240-250 gr scandi compact with ease for dry flies and smaller tube flies.

With a 280 gr Skagit you can launch some good size flies and a fast sink poly leader.
 

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For limited budget there are spinning and casting rods which some do have high quality blanks for their cost because they are made much more than fly rods and many don't have so much "brand name" extra in price.

Spinning rods have cosmetically too large stripper guides but they are fine for casting. Usually casting rods have guides about the same size fly rods have but some of them have a trigger which should not be a problem other than cosmetics and if it is plastic removing it takes only few minutes. For example a rod for 1/3 to 1 oz lure weight I cast about 300 gr Scandi with it.

Reel position is further up but it does not have any effect to casting but for balance when fishing I need to hold from the blank. For cold weather fishing I have mounted reel low using duct tape so I can hold rod from warmer cork or foam when stripping line.

I have used many spinning and casting rods to cast fly lines and when found them very good and worth it I have built "proper" fly handles and changed to snakes. I also test cast interesting fishing rods with fly line before buying if possible.

Esa
 

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For limited budget there are spinning and casting rods which some do have high quality blanks for their cost because they are made much more than fly rods and many don't have so much "brand name" extra in price.

Spinning rods have cosmetically too large stripper guides but they are fine for casting. Usually casting rods have guides about the same size fly rods have but some of them have a trigger which should not be a problem other than cosmetics and if it is plastic removing it takes only few minutes. For example a rod for 1/3 to 1 oz lure weight I cast about 300 gr Scandi with it.

Reel position is further up but it does not have any effect to casting but for balance when fishing I need to hold from the blank. For cold weather fishing I have mounted reel low using duct tape so I can hold rod from warmer cork or foam when stripping line.

I have used many spinning and casting rods to cast fly lines and when found them very good and worth it I have built "proper" fly handles and changed to snakes. I also test cast interesting fishing rods with fly line before buying if possible.

Esa
:whoa::eek:
There are just too many good, affordable spey rods out there. No need to do this......
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys,
I think I'll wait until I can go to a Spey Clave and try some lighter rods before I dive in. I have single handed rods that work, just wanted to get some extra reach with a switch rod. Fished and Orvis 7wt switch this fall for steel head and liked the extra distance you can get using a switch rod.
 

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Echo SR 4wt. It's my "go to" if I feel like I'm going to be doing a fair amount of overhead casting and (gasp) bobicator fishing ...I mean, they don't call it a switch rod for nothing. I second the 280gr skagit head and polys.

I also have a 4wt Redington Dually ($250) switch that's a good stick for tossing big nasties with skagit and tips. Not so fun to overhead cast but works.

I agree, there are way too many affordable good rods out there, and a ton of info here that will save you money on lines, etc. What good is a $150 rod if you end buying 10 lines looking for the right combination?

Admittedly, I don't have any experience with them, but everyone seems to dig the ARE's and there's a lot of input on lines for 'em on here. They would be about as affordable as one could get -
 

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Looking to buy / build a 4wt switch on a limited budget, for the up coming trout season. Any suggestions on blanks or manufactures?

I've looked at UHM-12 blanks, but have no experience with the action of these blanks. Anyone build a switch for trout with some advise?

Seems I have a very different approach to this than most.

I took a 5wt. single hand rod blank 10'5" and added in to the butt 20" of stiff rod blank scrap.The rod length is 11' 9" now. The joint is just ahead of the reel seat.My forward hand when casting is 9" above the joint and when playing a fish my forward hand is about 3" into the original rod.There is no chance of damaging the "actual" rod.
Very basic rod building...no degree needed.

Where I differ from ALL of the other responses is with my line.
I took a 4DT,cut it at 30' and spliced in the level line from a 2wf.Total length of line around 75'.
I don't use any type of sinking leaders or tips,for me and my style its all about the cast placement and the mend.
This is my trout spey rod.I fish a team of 3 flies #10-#16,also some stoneflies upto #6 2x. Standard tapered leader and 3' of tippet that the team is tyed onto.
Sometimes I fish upstream,sometimes I fish across,sometimes I swing.It all depends how I want to present to a lie?lye?
This rod and line combination with no concentration has let me,when desired, get my ENTIRE line cast out upto about 20' into my backing.
Mainly I work in to 35' - 45' range of line on the water.

This outfit :blank,reel seat,guides,cork,thread,lines cost me $62.

My opinion is that anything you want to do with any rod can be done as long as you have a natural feel for rhythm.:Eyecrazy:
 

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About a year ago I bought o switch blank on e-bay for $17. The blank is 11', IM-6 and is a three weight. Then I took a trip to angler's Workshop, before they moved, and dropped another $75 on guides, handle, and reel seat. The rod sat for almost a year before I got around to building it. I have just to second coat the guides and it will be ready to fish. It was a cheap blank and I don't have a lot invested but I have a terrible fear that it will break the first cast. It seems very delicate as it should be and is an odd green color but after the build, it looks pretty nice. I'm hoping it will cast as well as it looks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've built a few rods, both graphite and cut down cane. My last was a 10'6" bamboo rod that I extend the the butt to make a switch, handles a WF8 nicely.

My fear is, I put in the time and material cost and the rod cast nice, but falls apart on the stream handling a fish. That's why I asked about the UHM12 blanks.
 

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Scruffy, I hadn't noticed this post earlier but I have built that very rod you ask about. I can't say for certain how durable this rod will be, though it's given me no issues so far. I did break one of the same blanks (9' 6wt) while casting a heavy streamer, though I do think this was somewhat due to abuse on my part. So far I love the switch rod; paired it with an airflo scandi head. I'd have to double check what the grain weight is but I think it was somewhere in the 240 range.
What else would you like to know about it? Feel free to PM if you prefer.
JB
 
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